More clutch woes.

[jackatesme]

As i mentioned a couple of days ago i topped up clutch fluid, been pumping clutch for 2 days and found no signs of leakage from master,and got pressure on pedal. Tried to take it for a run today,but can not get into gear when engine running. Would i be right in assuming that problem must be slave. Before i go to the expense of getting a new slave and clutch could my assumption be confirmed. Thanks.

[roverbarmy]

Have a look under the gearbox. If there's fluid there, it's the slave cylinder. If you still have the original pipe setup with the quick release coupling under the bonnet, disconnect it and try the clutch. If the master is OK, you should have a solid pedal when pushed as the quick release has a sealing valve in it.

[COLVERT]

You say you have pressure on the pedal. If the slave cylinder has failed the only pressure you will feel on the pedal is that of the return spring. Quite often with a failed slave cylinder the pedal will stay down.

[jackatesme]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

You say you have pressure on the pedal. If the slave cylinder has failed the only pressure you will feel on the pedal is that of the return spring. Quite often with a failed slave cylinder the pedal will stay down.

That's is exactly like it was,some pressure to start then pedal to floor. So it looks like new slave and clutch.

[Comfortably Numb]

Did the pedal not come back up on its own?

[zaph]

Originally Posted by jackatesme

As i mentioned a couple of days ago i topped up clutch fluid, been pumping clutch for 2 days and found no signs of leakage from master,and got pressure on pedal. Tried to take it for a run today,but can not get into gear when engine running. Would i be right in assuming that problem must be slave. Before i go to the expense of getting a new slave and clutch could my assumption be confirmed. Thanks.

I wouldn't make that assumption, I replaced just the slave because the master didn't seem to be leaking. Still had problems till I switch the master as well.

Other thing to bare in mind, was the fluid was contaminated with black residue, which was material worn from the bores of the master/slave.

You don't want to fit a new slave, which is a pain of a job, then find it wears out out because of gunk from your old master. Much better to replace the whole system with quality parts, that way it will last.

Replacing just the slave is a false economy.

[macafee2]

if the fluid in the master cylinder is not going down then it cannot be a leak.
Split the hydraulic fitting part way along the pipe between master and slave.
Press the clutch pedal down, it should go stiff and not move, keep it pressed for 1 minute. If it goes solid and then slowly the pedal goes to the floor your master cylinder may well have had it. It is not leaking but a seal has failed on the plunger allowing fluid to by pass the seal/plunger and return to the master cylinder and not travel to the slave. This was my problem and the master had only been fitted for about 11 months

macafee2

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by zaph

I wouldn't make that assumption, I replaced just the slave because the master didn't seem to be leaking. Still had problems till I switched the master as well.

Other thing to bear in mind, was the fluid was contaminated with black residue, which was material worn from the bores of the master/slave.

You don't want to fit a new slave, which is a pain of a job, then find it wears out out because of gunk from your old master. Much better to replace the whole system with quality parts, that way it will last.

Replacing just the slave is a false economy.

The black was from the piston seal.-------Rubber.

[kev-rev180]

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[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by zaph

I wouldn't make that assumption, I replaced just the slave because the master didn't seem to be leaking. Still had problems till I switch the master as well.

Other thing to bare in mind, was the fluid was contaminated with black residue, which was material worn from the bores of the master/slave.

You don't want to fit a new slave, which is a pain of a job, then find it wears out out because of gunk from your old master. Much better to replace the whole system with quality parts, that way it will last.

Replacing just the slave is a false economy.

I've just fitted a brand new master cylinder to my car, and when I was bleeding the system, before I connected up the easibleed, noted the presence of greyish black rubber grease.

The master I removed had covered 1/4 million miles, and the bore was perfect, no wear at all.

So what you describe as debris resulting from bore wear, is in actual fact much more likely to be the dissolved assembly lubricant.

The trick is simple, you clean out the master prior to replacing the slave, and the new components won't become contaminated with old fluid.


As it happens, I took the piston from the old master, and have fitted that to my wife's car as the eyelet on the end of the pushrod of the master fitted to her car was worn oval, the fluid that came out of the original slave cylinder was clean and without added bits

Brian