a bit rusty underneath

geo.k23 · 21st July 2020, 05:54

Hi all just bought my rover tourer diesel 02 plate looks really good body and under the bonnet very tidy but was having trouble with the nearside front brake binding on took it to my friends garage put it on the car lift turns out it needs a caliper it was the first time i seen underneath and was amazed at the amount of rust is there anyone can clean and paint under the car don't know if it would be sandblasting or what but i am really concerned if anyone knows of someone who does this kind of work could you please let me know thanks in advance

vacuman · 21st July 2020, 06:14

Get some pictures posted for the best advice. Some light surface corrosion on the mechanicals isn't too much of a worry but the brake back plates, rear arms, brake pipes, tank hangers etc. are know weak points and no point treating them if they're past the point of no return.

Body corrosion is worse. These cars were treated during manufacture so underbody rust means that the chassis is compromised. Perhaps a wet floor for many years, or parked over long wet grass etc. It would need all the sealant stripped off, all rust removed, sections cut out etc. Normal practice on old Fords but less common, fortunately on MGR. First point to probe are the rear ends of the sills. Search this forum for more info

Dawn · 21st July 2020, 06:28

Chris Marshall at Hatton is doing underbody clean, check, and Dynax now. ☺

Tracker · 21st July 2020, 13:30

A little while ago somebody posted an item and photos on here about an outfit in Bristol (I think) who were doing amazing underbody refurbishments on BMW's, but could presumably do the same to any make. Not cheap, I imagine, as the results looked factory fresh. Anyone remember that?

dattrike · 21st July 2020, 13:42

Nothing to do with me

https://www.thepaintshoppros.co.uk/c...ction-service/

.

victorgte · 21st July 2020, 15:19

£375?
I did my MG TF for just £60. OK I hired a 4 post ramp for 5 hours but got it all done the same day. With good access you can do it in good time.

First hour using a wire brush set to get rid of surface corrosion and anything more substantial. Wipe away any dust etc too.
2 hours application of anti rust solution. It’s like skimmed milk so it paints on really easily with a small brush for hard to access areas and larger brush for everywhere else.
Leave it all for at least an hour to go off an dry. I think I went shopping.
Final job was to spray the entire underside with Dinitrol.
About a month later I put it back up just to see if I’d missed anything and simply applied a bit more to top it up and get as close to 100% coverage as possible.

About 2004 I paid £150 to a classic car centre near Bristol to do my Scimitar GTE. Not a great job. Needless to say they went bust shortly after.

Not everyone can do the job themselves but it was a very satisfying days work and impressed my local MOT tester working on the ramp next to me!

suzublu · 21st July 2020, 15:26

Do this to mine every year with Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50. Quite theraputic

Also, may I suggest as you're replacing the front n/s caliper, you do the rear too, or at least clean and lubricate the pins. It's nearly always the n/sides that stick. Just done my front the other day, the rear I changed last year

geo.k23 · 21st July 2020, 15:43

stan ive emailed you separately as i cannot upload pictures onto the forum for some reason.

cheers

george

Rickshaw · 21st July 2020, 17:23

I have really had a blitz on all my 75's both underneath and cavities. Posted about this last year so take a look at https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...85#post2736885 which may help.

Do a brief follow up check each year but what's there now is pretty solid. These cars are worth it!

All the best.

geo.k23 · 21st July 2020, 20:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rickshaw

I have really had a blitz on all my 75's both underneath and cavities. Posted about this last year so take a look at https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...85#post2736885 which may help.

Do a brief follow up check each year but what's there now is pretty solid. These cars are worth it!

All the best.

Hi Rick thanks for your reply but i need someone to undertake major repair underneath the car it's beyond my capabilities if you know of anyone i would be very grateful i was trying to post pictures but can't even do that i managed to email them to Stan or at least my daughter did but she is not here now if you can think of anyone please let me know thank you

21st July 2020, 05:54	#1
geo.k23 Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer CDT Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Alexandria Posts: 462 Thanks: 451 Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts	a bit rusty underneath Hi all just bought my rover tourer diesel 02 plate looks really good body and under the bonnet very tidy but was having trouble with the nearside front brake binding on took it to my friends garage put it on the car lift turns out it needs a caliper it was the first time i seen underneath and was amazed at the amount of rust is there anyone can clean and paint under the car don't know if it would be sandblasting or what but i am really concerned if anyone knows of someone who does this kind of work could you please let me know thanks in advance

21st July 2020, 06:14	#2
vacuman Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: St Albans Posts: 855 Thanks: 69 Thanked 236 Times in 172 Posts	Get some pictures posted for the best advice. Some light surface corrosion on the mechanicals isn't too much of a worry but the brake back plates, rear arms, brake pipes, tank hangers etc. are know weak points and no point treating them if they're past the point of no return. Body corrosion is worse. These cars were treated during manufacture so underbody rust means that the chassis is compromised. Perhaps a wet floor for many years, or parked over long wet grass etc. It would need all the sealant stripped off, all rust removed, sections cut out etc. Normal practice on old Fords but less common, fortunately on MGR. First point to probe are the rear ends of the sills. Search this forum for more info __________________ • This vehicle was the 8,186th ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 • This vehicle was the 1,723rd ZT-T 190 + to be made out of 1,756 • This vehicle was the 149th ZT-T in Mica Blue (Ignition) (code: JGY) to be made out of 160 Mica Blue (Ignition) ZT-Ts

21st July 2020, 13:42	#5
dattrike Posted a thing or two V6 2ltr auto in copperleaf +CDTI Auto in Royal Blue on loan to Son Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire Posts: 1,707 Thanks: 105 Thanked 476 Times in 267 Posts	Nothing to do with me https://www.thepaintshoppros.co.uk/c...ction-service/ . __________________

21st July 2020, 15:19	#6
victorgte I really should get out more....... MGTF, MGZT, Range Rover Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Cheltenham Posts: 2,802 Thanks: 395 Thanked 633 Times in 446 Posts	£375? I did my MG TF for just £60. OK I hired a 4 post ramp for 5 hours but got it all done the same day. With good access you can do it in good time. First hour using a wire brush set to get rid of surface corrosion and anything more substantial. Wipe away any dust etc too. 2 hours application of anti rust solution. It’s like skimmed milk so it paints on really easily with a small brush for hard to access areas and larger brush for everywhere else. Leave it all for at least an hour to go off an dry. I think I went shopping. Final job was to spray the entire underside with Dinitrol. About a month later I put it back up just to see if I’d missed anything and simply applied a bit more to top it up and get as close to 100% coverage as possible. About 2004 I paid £150 to a classic car centre near Bristol to do my Scimitar GTE. Not a great job. Needless to say they went bust shortly after. Not everyone can do the job themselves but it was a very satisfying days work and impressed my local MOT tester working on the ramp next to me! __________________ MG TF 135, MG ZT, Range Rover P38 Last edited by victorgte; 21st July 2020 at 22:25..

21st July 2020, 17:23	#9
Rickshaw Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer, 2 X75 Saloon , MGTF Sunstorm Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Guildford Posts: 380 Thanks: 497 Thanked 172 Times in 93 Posts	This may help I have really had a blitz on all my 75's both underneath and cavities. Posted about this last year so take a look at https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...85#post2736885 which may help. Do a brief follow up check each year but what's there now is pretty solid. These cars are worth it! All the best.

21st July 2020, 06:28	#3
Dawn I really should get out more....... MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016 Location: Ilkeston, Derbys Posts: 2,743 Thanks: 285 Thanked 1,128 Times in 504 Posts	Chris Marshall at Hatton is doing underbody clean, check, and Dynax now. ☺

21st July 2020, 13:30	#4
Tracker Loves to post MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Dunmow Posts: 350 Thanks: 139 Thanked 83 Times in 72 Posts	A little while ago somebody posted an item and photos on here about an outfit in Bristol (I think) who were doing amazing underbody refurbishments on BMW's, but could presumably do the same to any make. Not cheap, I imagine, as the results looked factory fresh. Anyone remember that?

21st July 2020, 15:26	#7
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,912 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Do this to mine every year with Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50. Quite theraputic Also, may I suggest as you're replacing the front n/s caliper, you do the rear too, or at least clean and lubricate the pins. It's nearly always the n/sides that stick. Just done my front the other day, the rear I changed last year

21st July 2020, 15:43	#8
geo.k23 Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer CDT Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Alexandria Posts: 462 Thanks: 451 Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts	stan ive emailed you separately as i cannot upload pictures onto the forum for some reason. cheers george