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9th May 2021, 11:32 | #1 |
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Rubbish soldering
I'm just in from repairing some electronics in the garage, with the realisation I have become really rubbish at soldering. I struggle now to even tin the wires and the finished job doesn't look too tidy. I used to be okay at it! Could this be related to solders being sold as lead-free now? I noted the solder I used was mainly tin, with a bit of copper and silver alloyed in.
Any tips, like substances to clean the wires and circuit. I used to just strip the wire clean and it worked fine.
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9th May 2021, 11:56 | #2 |
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My soldering iron had a removable tip which was covered in corrosion. I removed and cleaned all of it with emery tape, re-tinned the tip with solder and my soldering was back to normal! Maybe the corrosion was preventing the tip from heating properly. Cleanliness is next to Godliness with soldering it seems!
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9th May 2021, 12:43 | #3 |
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Depends on what you are soldering.
New RoHS compliant PCBs are often difficult. I have some solder from my grand fathers time, so it could be about 100 years old. Flows much better than the new stuff, and seems to wet the work far better. I am quite sure some of the recent "progress" not only in this area, but generally, is none of that.
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9th May 2021, 17:58 | #4 |
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Thanks for you comments. Actually I have moved on to a different soldering iron as the old one broke. I’ve used up all the solder I inherited from my father, so am using some lead-free stuff now. I’ll try another brand and clean my iron...
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9th May 2021, 21:31 | #5 |
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Don't forget the iron can lose power over time, my old faithful one now won't solder outside as it has NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- a bit old!
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9th May 2021, 21:43 | #6 |
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I feel your pain.
I have lost the knack.
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10th May 2021, 09:48 | #7 |
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lead free solder is part of it. Luckily you can still buy and use it for repair work. (or could up until 2 years ago). If stuck using lead free use a thinner solder than you would a leaded, that will help it melt quicker, also if you have temp control turn your iron up a bit.
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10th May 2021, 10:25 | #8 |
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Back in the 70's, as a Field Service Engineer, we used to replace transistors on PCB's, and solder on wire links. This was before multi layer boards were devised.
Standard issue was an ORYX soldering iron, and a largish reel of quite fine solder. (large enough for the production line; in the field, a lifetime) Both still in occasional use, and work fine. However, when I need a thicker solder (now lead free) the difference is significant. How do I still have my old iron ? Well together with my whole tool kit, it was dropped by baggage handlers at Dyce (Aberdeen) Airport, damaged corner and one lock/catch no longer working. British Airways paid for a replacement, and I didn't have to return the old one. Result. Regards Mike
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10th May 2021, 14:30 | #9 |
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60/40 solder melts around 190 C and the new lead free around 220 C.
You can still obtain 60/40 multi core solder and that is what I am staying with. I find it flows so much easier and therefor protects the pcb copper from being damaged. |
11th May 2021, 19:06 | #10 |
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You need to use flux or a solder with a flux core.--This cleans the part to be soldered and make the solder free flowing.
Without it soldering becomes difficult. Bit like trying to wash your face with a bar of soap but no water.-- |
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