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9th June 2021, 09:31 | #21 |
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Simon.
I've tried your link several times but I just can't get it to work for me. I agree about your comment on @myths@ It's rather like some of those --old wives tales--that just won't go away. |
9th June 2021, 10:39 | #22 | |||
Doesn't do things by halves
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Regarding "breaker bars", this term conjures up an image of brute force and ignorance in my mind. With a torque wrench I can control and limit the force I am applying. If a bolt won't move, my technique is to stop and use other means to help it. I find this works well and avoids disasters. Quote:
Simon
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9th June 2021, 10:49 | #23 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
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I think you're just being deliberately contrary Mike. Why is that? Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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9th June 2021, 11:37 | #24 | ||||
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Always a risk they can break and let go suddenly, not what you want when you have all your weight on it. By all means use the ratchet after you have loosened the bolt. Stay safe Simon. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 9th June 2021 at 11:52.. |
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9th June 2021, 12:59 | #25 |
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Regarding "breaker bars", this term conjures up an image of brute force and ignorance in my mind.
That would only be if you don't know what a breaker bar is, what it is used for and why the term ' breaker bar' is used. It is called a breaker bar because its function is to allow more force to be applied to a fastener than can be applied with other tools, depending on length, to ' break ' a threaded fastener free, which may be excessively tight or corroded and can not be released with normal length tools. Though if used incorrectly and to excess in the wrong hands, yes it can break or snap a fastening but that is not its design function ! Some times brute force is the only way to loosen something, as I have used many times over the years, either by using breaker bars or my torque multiplier which appears, due to the low effort required, to be quite a gentle tool but is far from it at the business end. True brute force with fastenings was what my sons enjoyed seeing their grandad do when he was replacing oak timbers for one of his hammer beds, watching his staff knock the colours out of large square mounting nuts that he made, with a ' slam spanner ' as he called it, which he also made, the spanner hung on chains and tensioned by chains, no torque setting, just hammered until he determined it sounded right. So yes, severely brutal in the truest sense of the word but certainly no sign of ignorance, quite the opposite in fact.
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9th June 2021, 13:55 | #26 |
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Quote--Mike Noc.
Again not good engineering practice to use a ratchet to undo seized or well torqued up bolts either. Always a risk they can break and let go suddenly, not what you want when you have all your weight on it. By all means use the ratchet after you have loosened the bolt. My thoughts on it. If a bolt is super tight as long as you can set the torque wrench to a figure higher than the normal force required to tighten the said bolt nothing will break.---The torque wrench will let you know when to stop pulling by clicking.---However if you try to continue past that point then it's possible to cause all sorts of damage. To you, the bolt and even the torque wrench.-( this paragraph about undoing a seized bolt ) I believe it to be true that a torque wrench ratchet will be designed to work safely up to the wrenches rated capacity. ( I think this was the point that Simon was trying to make. ) |
9th June 2021, 18:50 | #27 | |||
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You chose to ignore the fact that I first mentioned using a socket with a Strong arm just homing in to the comment I made to "IF using two spanners as Artic shows !" that was added as didn't know which way the OP was going to attempt it There is no way you will exceed the torque of those spanners by doing that , You may exceed the torque of the bolt ! As for Artic's pictorial ,many a member has successfully changed out the lower arms by following it, so a proven safe way of doing it . The bolt is not exact torque critical and Sufficient tightening from a competent person will render the vehicle safe and roadworthy Already since you have advised removing ARB clamps to remove the rear bush two members have encountered problems on a job that is not required to remove the rear bushes I like your comment about resistance to spending a little more time to do a job properly ! Who has resistance to spend the time needed to safely repair the car ? No one from what I read ! People are just giving advice from the knowledge and experiences they have gained working on their cars ! Most people have not got the luxury of laying their car up for 3 months to change out a set of springs , drop links, rear bushes and bottom arms . Quote:
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The flange of the bolt will have picked up on the bush over the years as it will have been fitted dry and will have corroded . That's why the bolt will be tighter Last edited by TourerSteve; 9th June 2021 at 19:46.. |
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9th June 2021, 19:07 | #28 | |
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Have used Pneumatic and hydraulic torque equipment to break out fastenings but that is another game completely ! Last edited by TourerSteve; 9th June 2021 at 19:17.. |
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10th June 2021, 07:48 | #29 | |||
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Here's why that's not true Steve:
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Thank you Jon! At last some sense prevails. Mike and Steve please take note! Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 10th June 2021 at 11:30.. Reason: Some wording changed for clarity. |
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10th June 2021, 08:45 | #30 | ||
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Most likely after your two day of reading all the little spats of how to undo and what to use to undo the two bolts, you may have not found time to sort them out please let us know how you are getting on. Personally my method works for me and that is the way i will always change the lower wish bone bushes, if you are changing the whole arm then that's even easier in my opinion, the only part that can get troublesome is the centre pin which needs some force to crack the taper now and again, i am sure you will get there in the end.
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