Doing the backplates, shoes & adjusters

[BigAde]

Having had constant handbrake woes ever since new backplates were fitted with Euro Car Parts own shoes, so I've decided to bite the bullet and order new backplates pre-fitted with MGR shoes and adjusters from DMGRS so everything will finally be back the way it should. Maybe overkill, but needs to be sorted otherwise it won't pass the MOT.

The compensator was changed 5-6 years ago for one of the welded modified types fitted by seancar (not Arctics stainless steel one), so I'm assuming that's still ok - think it would take me a couple of hours to take it all apart to check.

So anyway... the question is, is there anything else I should be changing while I'm 'down there'... would a new hub nut be a good idea? Any other suggestions?

[patrolman pete]

I struggled with a poor handbrake for years having to adjust the shoes tight every year to just scrape through the MOT. Even with a modified compensator the handbrake lever never had any ' spring' in it's feel. The fault turned out to be aftermarket handbrake shoes so on seeing a post by Jules about TRW shoes I sourced a set and now the handbrake locks the wheels without effort and the handbrake has feel again.

[BigAde]

Originally Posted by patrolman pete

I struggled with a poor handbrake for years having to adjust the shoes tight every year to just scrape through the MOT. Even with a modified compensator the handbrake lever never had any ' spring' in it's feel. The fault turned out to be aftermarket handbrake shoes so on seeing a post by Jules about TRW shoes I sourced a set and now the handbrake locks the wheels without effort and the handbrake has feel again.

Thanks, good to know! I think I read the same post about TRW shoes.... I could probably save a few quid and do just that... but in case it's an adjuster or spring at fault, I just want a one-fit approach that will change all possibilities in one hit.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by BigAde

.... the question is, is there anything else I should be changing while I'm 'down there'... would a new hub nut be a good idea? Any other suggestions?

In RAVE's section on rear hubs (64-1) it says: "Remove and discard cap from hub" and "Remove and discard hub nut." Then it says: "Fit new hub nut and tighten to 210Nm" and "Fit new cap to hub".

So they're saying fit new hub nuts and grease caps. There's no mention of fitting new keyed washers as well but I'd change them while you're at it.

What was wrong with the ECP shoes by the way?

[vitesse]

Haynes says a lot of things ... but I see no reason to replace the hub caps, removed one on Friday and reused it. Same with the nuts, if you don't want the staked bit in the same place, then swop them over to the other side.

Good luck with the handbrake tube. Never managed to free the handbrake cable from the guide tube, always ended up slowly grinding the tube until it released the handbrake cable.

Regards

[Blink]

My old caps were well and truly jammed on - I tried everything to get them off without damaging them and couldn't do it. In the end I just hit them with a bolster chisel (which did them no good at all ).

I did wonder about re-using the nuts but in the end I decided to go with RAVE's advice

[BigAde]

I did order new hub nuts, but not grease caps. Where would I get them from DMGRS don't seem to show them.

Oh and the ECP shoes should be ok in theory, it's just that I've noted that my problems started when the new ones were fitted. Handbrake has never been the same since then. It's only a guess that the shoes are the cause.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by BigAde

I did order new hub nuts, but not grease caps. Where would I get them from DMGRS don't seem to show them.

Caps are RLF10001. Mine came from Brown & Gammons.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?sour...=1583946100357

[patrolman pete]

Originally Posted by BigAde

I did order new hub nuts, but not grease caps. Where would I get them from DMGRS don't seem to show them.

Oh and the ECP shoes should be ok in theory, it's just that I've noted that my problems started when the new ones were fitted. Handbrake has never been the same since then. It's only a guess that the shoes are the cause.

The aftermarket shoe linings have poor friction properties. Jules post said the TRW shoes were fitted at the factory and have a softer lining . The engineers at MG Rover would have tested linings to get the required coefficient of friction to meet the required brake efficiency. I originally replaced my shoes due to cracking on the linings and replaced them with Unipart shoes and fitted the modified compensator at the same time. I then road tested and the handbrake struggled to hold on a local bank and then got worse over the coming weeks needing to be adjusted tight to get it from hopeless to poor ! Pagid shoes weren't much better and eventually I swapped to TRW and the handbrake nearly put me through the windscreen !

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by patrolman pete

I struggled with a poor handbrake for years having to adjust the shoes tight every year to just scrape through the MOT. Even with a modified compensator the handbrake lever never had any ' spring' in it's feel. The fault turned out to be aftermarket handbrake shoes so on seeing a post by Jules about TRW shoes I sourced a set and now the handbrake locks the wheels without effort and the handbrake has feel again.

have you a link to the TRW shoes you could post?

thanks

macafee2

think these are TRW
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/trw-2194720.html