Fuel supply problem, petrol

[Blink]

Aha, it was TC. See post 3 https://www.mg-rover.org/threads/rov...l-tool.378668/

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by Blink

It's special tool number 19-009 in RAVE (p19-2-22 Repairs) - you won't find one in a motor factor. Someone here made one and posted a pic - it might have been Arctic or Stocktake, or anybody else (I can't remember ).


This could be it - https://www.worthpoint.com/worthoped...-lrt-497124747 - it's the right shape anyway.

https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalo...ZZLAS6110.html

Looks like I was wrong - you can buy it after all (assuming this is the right one).

Blink - Thanks for this info. The Dingocraft one looks expensive while the genuine Chuchill tool looks rather crudely made and it's not clear on that worthpoint site if it's still available and what is the price, looks like an auction.

Sure I guess I could make one but for the time saving I'll probably go for the Dingocraft one, will call them tomorrow and find out if they have stocks and if they are currently trading.
Looks like I'll have to get into one or both sides of the tank and as I have other 75s to maintain (I don't plan to get a newer car in my remaining years) I think I can justify the expense.

[T-Cut]

Petrol and diesel tank seals are identical. I think tapping the rings with a hammr and a drift (wooden dowel for example) is the obvious way to go. I only made up the 'tool' because the rings have a torque setting (28ftlb). You can only torque it up with a rotating tool of some kind, but I can't see it's essential. The more importnat part of this job is getting the rubber seal positioned correctly and the right way up around the port lip before lowering the module onto it. You should be able to start the ring easily by hand and screw it a fair way down without any tools.


TC

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Petrol and diesel tank seals are identical. I think tapping the rings with a hammr and a drift (wooden dowel for example) is the obvious way to go. I only made up the 'tool' because the rings have a torque setting (28ftlb). You can only torque it up with a rotating tool of some kind, but I can't see it's essential. The more importnat part of this job is getting the rubber seal positioned correctly and the right way up around the port lip before lowering the module onto it. You should be able to start the ring easily by hand and screw it a fair way down without any tools.
TC

Perhaps using the tool would be overkill. I've done the job before on other cars (not Rover) using the hammer and drift method but thought I'd make it easy for myself

[T-Cut]

I recall an MGR tool for this, but haven't a reference atm. I notice the Haynes manual shows another DIY tool on page 4A.6 section 8.8a


TC

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I recall an MGR tool for this, but haven't a reference atm. I notice the Haynes manual shows another DIY tool on page 4A.6 section 8.8a

TC

MGR tool 19-009 (see RAVE p19-2-22 Repairs).

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by Blink

MGR tool 19-009 (see RAVE p19-2-22 Repairs).

Got a Laser onr from Dingocraft. Not cheap but will make the job easy and as I have four 75s it's likely I'll be using it several times.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

Got a Laser onr from Dingocraft.

A photo of that would br handy.


TC

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

A photo of that would br handy.


TC

Real one HERE

Laser tools 6110 equivalent PDF HERE

On eBay HERE

Brian

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

A photo of that would br handy.


TC

According to Dingocraft it's a Laser one' looks identical to the photos except that it takes a 1/2" square drive, not a hex