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Old 12th February 2020, 14:07   #1
Robti
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Default how to remove Joint-rear suspension upper link ball - RHF100190

Hi renewing the rear upper suspension arm and the above is seized in the trailing arm, so before i waste my time doing something stupid any hints on how to get it out of the arm ?
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Old 12th February 2020, 14:12   #2
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heat the trailing arm then try to knock out but you hay need a press to remove and insert. It is a tight fit into the arm. I assume you have the bolt that goes through it removed?

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Old 12th February 2020, 14:17   #3
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Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
heat the trailing arm then try to knock out but you hay need a press to remove and insert. It is a tight fit into the arm. I assume you have the bolt that goes through it removed?

macafee2
yes just finished cutting it off, was hitting it with a club hammer but no movement,so cut the bolt off, will wait till i get the rest of the trailing arm out then get the gas bottle onto it, what lovely weather to be working on the roadside lol
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Old 12th February 2020, 16:17   #4
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It took me over a week of drilling, heating, bashing and cutting (oh and swearing) to get mine off after the bolt seized solid inside the bush. Hardest part was removing the outer case. New one was bashed in but either i damaged it or the trailing arm large bush in doing so as i've had a slight knocking ever since. (will check that out when it gets warmer)
Good luck with yours!
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Old 12th February 2020, 19:27   #5
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Originally Posted by smudge.g View Post
It took me over a week of drilling, heating, bashing and cutting (oh and swearing) to get mine off after the bolt seized solid inside the bush. Hardest part was removing the outer case. New one was bashed in but either i damaged it or the trailing arm large bush in doing so as i've had a slight knocking ever since. (will check that out when it gets warmer)
Good luck with yours!
Some bells ringing but not too many ... can’t find the thread but remember someone having a problem with parts and it concerned the upper arms. Something about XPart having remanufactured perhaps these upper link balls (Made in India) to suit the Made in India upper arms but the Indian ones were different despite the same part number. An eventual search turned up the same part number but Made in UK at the bottom of the parts bin - those were perfect.

Sorry can’t remember more, might not have been the same part but someone else might be able to shed more light on it and it could be the source of your knock.

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Old 12th February 2020, 22:10   #6
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After you chop off the bolt, belt the middle out of the bush with a mash hammer, it will not resist I promise

Of course you will have bought your new rose joint bush, if not.... phew you won't need to break the bank, as the identical part is fitted to E46 BMW rear suspension, so treat yourself.........LINK

Now comes the interesting part, without further dismantling of the rear suspension, buy yourself one of these.......LINK, I'm sure I don't need to elaborate on how this is used, or do I?

I've got a Vectra B rose joint tool, similar to THIS, for which I machined up a deeper mandrel to accommodate the longer 75 bush, however I would have probably bought the tool in the link if it had been available at the time.

So, no need to start dismantling any further, if you wanted to be creative, after bopping the middle out of the bush, you could hacksaw through the outer part left in the trailing arm, then simply drift it out, remove the boot from the new bush, then after cleaning out the hole in the trailing arm, pull it into place using threaded bar, and a suitable size socket, or even the old bush housing with a big washer.

It's up to you, with the tool I use, the whole operation will take you less than ten minutes, I'm sure improvisation may take longer, but what the hell

Brian
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Old 13th February 2020, 07:09   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
After you chop off the bolt, belt the middle out of the bush with a mash hammer, it will not resist I promise

Of course you will have bought your new rose joint bush, if not.... phew you won't need to break the bank, as the identical part is fitted to E46 BMW rear suspension, so treat yourself.........LINK

Now comes the interesting part, without further dismantling of the rear suspension, buy yourself one of these.......LINK, I'm sure I don't need to elaborate on how this is used, or do I?

I've got a Vectra B rose joint tool, similar to THIS, for which I machined up a deeper mandrel to accommodate the longer 75 bush, however I would have probably bought the tool in the link if it had been available at the time.

So, no need to start dismantling any further, if you wanted to be creative, after bopping the middle out of the bush, you could hacksaw through the outer part left in the trailing arm, then simply drift it out, remove the boot from the new bush, then after cleaning out the hole in the trailing arm, pull it into place using threaded bar, and a suitable size socket, or even the old bush housing with a big washer.

It's up to you, with the tool I use, the whole operation will take you less than ten minutes, I'm sure improvisation may take longer, but what the hell

Brian
that's the way I did it, bashed the centre out then cut the outer housing but took the trailing arm to a garage to have new bush inserted

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Old 16th February 2020, 09:03   #8
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Well first dry weather for a while so popped out and 15 minutes later and the arm is out and the rose bush also, got the new one in the freezer and off to look for some screwed rod or failing that, order the one Brian linked to earlier, didn’t want to order anything till I had everything off
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Last edited by Robti; 16th February 2020 at 13:12..
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Old 16th February 2020, 11:00   #9
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Hi Brian. Are you sure that the link to the part in post 6 is compatible with all the Rover and MG cars? The compatibility chart on the site says it is not!
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Old 16th February 2020, 13:53   #10
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The eBay compatability guides are notoriously incorrect, the bush and the tool are correct for our cars

The other method of removing the centre of the bush then cutting through the outer, then pulling the new one in with a couple of suitably sized sockets and a length of threaded bar works just as well
Russ
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