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25th March 2021, 22:14 | #21 | |
Still learning...
Gold 04 75 Connie SE 2.5 V6 Petrol, Silver 52 Connie SE 2.5 V6 Petrol, 04 BRG Connie 2.5 V6 Petrol Join Date: Sep 2009
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Yep I haven't drained it yet as I want to do both the oil and coolant at the same time (but separately) whilst I'm under the car...I must do that next ( once the sump plug washer arrives) With regard to the flow from the bleed tube and the pin hole below it I thought Id checked following Ducattis and TCs advice in the original overheating post, however I'm now starting to question if I did it or got distracted with the HGF nonsense instead. I'll try that again in the morning and report back Paul |
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26th March 2021, 07:06 | #22 | |
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Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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26th March 2021, 09:18 | #23 | |
Still learning...
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I've also stuck a paper clip into the pin hole to make sure it is not blocked. Firstly is 1 minute enough to test this properly? Secondly shouldn't there be an associated sound somewhere to confirm this diagnosis? Cheers Paul |
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26th March 2021, 10:26 | #24 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
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Yes. It's not time related, the flow should be immediate. Quote:
Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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26th March 2021, 10:39 | #25 | |
Still learning...
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BTW cant remember if we concluded that just an airlock coupled with a small thermos leak could cause such high temperatures Thank Paul |
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26th March 2021, 11:36 | #26 | |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011
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If the refill doesn't help you might want to try a few unconventional methods I tried. Pressurised the system while running with compressed air (any type of radiator tester would do) - I got the idea having owned a Saab V4 and Rover 820, the clutches just won't bleed unless under pressure. I believe it led to the "burp" I've earlier described. And then the slow drives locally, upon return opening the bleed screw - every time I got a bit more air out, took about three trips before only coolant was expelled. The car is now used daily with confidence (touch wood) but this blend of anti-freeze is staying in the car forever as I have no intention of going through this all again. Good luck |
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26th March 2021, 15:10 | #27 |
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If all else fails, use MGR's default Workshop method of pre-evacuation. This removes all air from the empty system then sucks in the fresh coolant so every nook and cranny is full. It's guaranteed to refill any cooling system airlock free, no matter how convoluted. No bleed screws, no tank lifting and no hassle. It can easily be done using the popular Pela type oil pump and a rubber bung. Heck, there's even a HowTo on it: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=41864
I used this method for my very first coolant change and recommend it for anyone finding 'standard' proceedure a hit'n'miss affair. But the 1.8T is so easy I don't bother now, with the Pela, Haynes or MGR. Mine simply burps like a baby. TC |
30th March 2021, 12:28 | #28 |
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***Update***
I've now drained and flushed the coolant but I now cannot remove the bleed screw. No matter how many time I try its stuck fast , I can only think I tightened it too much the last time I bled it. I've tried to get a mole grip around the serrated edge but I cannot get a good grip. This must be a fairly common issue is there an easy way to resolve this other than removing the bottom hose completely and trying to remove the screw whist out of the car? Cheres Paul |
30th March 2021, 13:08 | #29 | |
I really should get out more.......
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Would recommend buying a replacement first though, T-Cut provided this link in another thread:https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...screw&_sacat=0 Good luck |
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30th March 2021, 14:44 | #30 | |
Still learning...
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I've finally managed to free it using a box spanner, took 45m minutes using all sorts of different tools though!!! Fortunately I have a project car I've nicked the bleed screw from and refilled, bled and tested. Leaving it overnight then short drive to see if the overheating issue has resolved. Cheers Paul |
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