Whats the best polish?????? - Page 2

SapperGB · 18th June 2012, 10:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by James.uk

I got the info and addresses from the USA Honda website. I had to buy six lots to make it buyable, even then it was pretty expensive.

I haven't opened mine for years, can't afford to innit.. lol... Actually, it fell down the back of a cupboard in my shed, and I can't be bothered to shift all the junk to get to it... lmho..

BTW, don't ever spray it on Scribbler, wipe it on with a soft cloth. If you spray it, it gets in all the tiny nooks and crannies, then bleeds all down the car when it rains!!

...

this by any chance?

http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...9e259dd587a49d

James.uk · 18th June 2012, 16:33

This is where I got my info from. It's a big thread and very old now, but the info's in there somewhere.. lol .

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...own.+wet+paint

This may be the same stuff, I'm not sure though..

http://www.wetpaintglaze.com/

I bought six packs, kept one, gave one to Scribbler, and sold the rest to a local valeting place for a nice profit.

But if you get some, DO NOT SPRAY IT ON!!!!!.. lol...

*Never thought I'd ever be posting on a car cleaning thread!*

...

rovexCDTi · 18th June 2012, 20:30

I think we need a bit of a terminology clarification...

A 'polish' is not a top coat, its a preparation stage product. Its a product that goes between a compounding/sanding stage and a top coat wax or sealant. Its usually a cleaning or refining stage that brings out the shine, but doesnt offer a strong level of protection. Some, like Super Resin Polish, contain fillers that fill in swirl marks making the paint look better, but only mask problems.

As long as the paint is free from swirls marks or embedded grit almost any top coat, however cheap, will make it look great, but it wont last or give the ideal effect for your paint type.

The best products these days can last a couple of years and are harder than your paint, so prevent scratches. Examples are CarPro C-Quartz, Optimum Opti-coat and Concours car care Ceramisheild. All 3 are ceramic crosslinking hard coats, and are about £40 for a cars worth.

There are some less durable, but similar products such as Permanon and Wolfs Chemicals Nano Body Wrap. These last up to a year with the right maintenance (usually needed a quick detailing top up every now and then).

All of these products are FAR more durable and protecting than any wax or synthetic resin sealant. They are also especially good on light colours and lighter metallics because they bring out the metal flakes so well, something waxes mask. The key trait of these products ois the extreme hydrophobic properties they have. Water simply cannot stick and runs off in sheets, beading is very very tight and as i said it will do this for a few years. They arent like the rip-off dealer applied coatings like Supagard..

Generally speaking of you have a dark car you want to use a natural wax, its brings out depth. Use a glaze under it for even more depth.

If you have a light car use a synthetic, it will prevent the 'warming' of the colour that a natural wax will create. They also bring out metallic flakes.

Its difficult to recommend any product until its known how much effort you want to put in to it. The ceramic products are fantastic, BUT need a LOT of prep work before application!

Ive seen that 'wet Paint' stuff before, its sold under a number of names. Its ok, but real detailers will scoff at it because its just a sealant/glaze that contains massive amounts of filler oils. It will leave the paint looking shiney, but not truly clarified and jewelled. Its a cheat, and you can see it.

This video is an example of what Ceramisheild can do. Left side ceramisheild, right side a premium wax, both after 30 washes..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcpG5...layer_embedded

Yella Fella · 20th June 2012, 09:29

Some good info there.

Whats the best polish? Personally I think it was Lech Walesa

James_Death · 21st June 2012, 09:15

As stated a polish is a prep stage no longevity it then needs topping.
However the term polish often gets used as of old for even waxing.

FK1000P i have found to be good especially for silver.

rovexCDTi · 21st June 2012, 09:33

Indeed it is!

James_Death · 21st June 2012, 12:10

Yep Silver really really does get something from FK1000P, it really does add a nice gloss to it.

Tim_Burgess · 23rd June 2012, 00:34

Ask 10 different people and you'll get 10 different answers. But for silvers, I agree with Rovex; synthetics all the way.

I use a teflon based sealant and it works extremely well on my Starlight Silver ZT. A quick spritz with Meguiars #135 between applications keeps the level of bling up.

My weapons of choice for the 75 (Royal Blue) were One Grand Omega Glaze, followed by their Blitz Wax or Prima Banana Gloss if I was in a hurry.

FLYING BANANA · 23rd June 2012, 07:21

As said different people have different views on polish. I use Turtle Wax ICE on the Banana. Blue Thunder had a Teflon based polish applied back in April and it still shines.

rovexCDTi · 23rd June 2012, 10:57

Yeah everyone wants different things from car care products. I found Turtle Wax Ice to be awful. It was shiny, but not very luminous and it didnt do anything for silver at all. It also had poor beading and what beading it did have lasted about a week.

If you want durability, protection and extreme water beading nothing can beat the ceramic coatings, but really you need to machine compound and polish your car first, and use a bodyshop safe finishing polish, so that there is nothing between them and the paint. If you have none of the gear now its going to cost about £160 to do it.

It should be noted that Teflon is useless as an ingredient in car polishes/waxes. It cannot bond to the paint in that form, Dupont have said so and dont approve of its use in any product that claims it does (in the same way that they dont approve of its use in Slick50), however it might act as lubricant for easy removal, but it wont get left behind on the paint. Thats not to say that any product with it in is bad, but its just marketing.

18th June 2012, 16:33	#12
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	This is where I got my info from. It's a big thread and very old now, but the info's in there somewhere.. lol . http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...own.+wet+paint This may be the same stuff, I'm not sure though.. http://www.wetpaintglaze.com/ I bought six packs, kept one, gave one to Scribbler, and sold the rest to a local valeting place for a nice profit. But if you get some, DO NOT SPRAY IT ON!!!!!.. lol... Never thought I'd ever be posting on a car cleaning thread! ... Last edited by James.uk; 18th June 2012 at 16:51..

20th June 2012, 09:29	#14
Yella Fella Nemo Me Impune Lacessit None at the moment Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Glasgow's HMP Barlinnie, 'A' Hall, 2nd Flat Posts: 5,192 Thanks: 493 Thanked 1,094 Times in 666 Posts	Some good info there. Whats the best polish? Personally I think it was Lech Walesa __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

21st June 2012, 09:33	#16
rovexCDTi This is my second home MG ZT+ 135 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Exeter Posts: 3,626 Thanks: 9 Thanked 42 Times in 26 Posts	Indeed it is! __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

23rd June 2012, 00:34	#18
Tim_Burgess This is my second home 1999 75 Connoisseur SE 2.5, 2000 75 Classic SE 2.0, 2012 Lancia Delta 3, 2016 Dacia Sandero Ambiance Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Kilcreggan Posts: 3,191 Thanks: 334 Thanked 334 Times in 162 Posts	Ask 10 different people and you'll get 10 different answers. But for silvers, I agree with Rovex; synthetics all the way. I use a teflon based sealant and it works extremely well on my Starlight Silver ZT. A quick spritz with Meguiars #135 between applications keeps the level of bling up. My weapons of choice for the 75 (Royal Blue) were One Grand Omega Glaze, followed by their Blitz Wax or Prima Banana Gloss if I was in a hurry. __________________ *The fact there's a highway to hell and only a stairway to heaven says a lot about anticipated traffic numbers.*.

23rd June 2012, 07:21	#19
FLYING BANANA Moderator/Club Shop MG ZT 1.8t+. No.3 of 4 in Sunspot Yellow & Ford Fiesta in Black. Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Rattler Farm Posts: 22,568 Thanks: 9,270 Thanked 15,645 Times in 6,806 Posts	As said different people have different views on polish. I use Turtle Wax ICE on the Banana. Blue Thunder had a Teflon based polish applied back in April and it still shines. __________________ 233,431. That’s our second meet done, no.3 next weekend. onen hag oll

18th June 2012, 20:30	#13
rovexCDTi This is my second home MG ZT+ 135 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Exeter Posts: 3,626 Thanks: 9 Thanked 42 Times in 26 Posts	I think we need a bit of a terminology clarification... A 'polish' is not a top coat, its a preparation stage product. Its a product that goes between a compounding/sanding stage and a top coat wax or sealant. Its usually a cleaning or refining stage that brings out the shine, but doesnt offer a strong level of protection. Some, like Super Resin Polish, contain fillers that fill in swirl marks making the paint look better, but only mask problems. As long as the paint is free from swirls marks or embedded grit almost any top coat, however cheap, will make it look great, but it wont last or give the ideal effect for your paint type. The best products these days can last a couple of years and are harder than your paint, so prevent scratches. Examples are CarPro C-Quartz, Optimum Opti-coat and Concours car care Ceramisheild. All 3 are ceramic crosslinking hard coats, and are about £40 for a cars worth. There are some less durable, but similar products such as Permanon and Wolfs Chemicals Nano Body Wrap. These last up to a year with the right maintenance (usually needed a quick detailing top up every now and then). All of these products are FAR more durable and protecting than any wax or synthetic resin sealant. They are also especially good on light colours and lighter metallics because they bring out the metal flakes so well, something waxes mask. The key trait of these products ois the extreme hydrophobic properties they have. Water simply cannot stick and runs off in sheets, beading is very very tight and as i said it will do this for a few years. They arent like the rip-off dealer applied coatings like Supagard.. Generally speaking of you have a dark car you want to use a natural wax, its brings out depth. Use a glaze under it for even more depth. If you have a light car use a synthetic, it will prevent the 'warming' of the colour that a natural wax will create. They also bring out metallic flakes. Its difficult to recommend any product until its known how much effort you want to put in to it. The ceramic products are fantastic, BUT need a LOT of prep work before application! Ive seen that 'wet Paint' stuff before, its sold under a number of names. Its ok, but real detailers will scoff at it because its just a sealant/glaze that contains massive amounts of filler oils. It will leave the paint looking shiney, but not truly clarified and jewelled. Its a cheat, and you can see it. This video is an example of what Ceramisheild can do. Left side ceramisheild, right side a premium wax, both after 30 washes.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcpG5...layer_embedded __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by rovexCDTi; 18th June 2012 at 20:41..

21st June 2012, 09:15	#15
James_Death Gets stuck in EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010 Location: Doncaster Posts: 733 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	As stated a polish is a prep stage no longevity it then needs topping. However the term polish often gets used as of old for even waxing. FK1000P i have found to be good especially for silver.

21st June 2012, 12:10	#17
James_Death Gets stuck in EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010 Location: Doncaster Posts: 733 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Yep Silver really really does get something from FK1000P, it really does add a nice gloss to it.

23rd June 2012, 10:57	#20
rovexCDTi This is my second home MG ZT+ 135 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Exeter Posts: 3,626 Thanks: 9 Thanked 42 Times in 26 Posts	Yeah everyone wants different things from car care products. I found Turtle Wax Ice to be awful. It was shiny, but not very luminous and it didnt do anything for silver at all. It also had poor beading and what beading it did have lasted about a week. If you want durability, protection and extreme water beading nothing can beat the ceramic coatings, but really you need to machine compound and polish your car first, and use a bodyshop safe finishing polish, so that there is nothing between them and the paint. If you have none of the gear now its going to cost about £160 to do it. It should be noted that Teflon is useless as an ingredient in car polishes/waxes. It cannot bond to the paint in that form, Dupont have said so and dont approve of its use in any product that claims it does (in the same way that they dont approve of its use in Slick50), however it might act as lubricant for easy removal, but it wont get left behind on the paint. Thats not to say that any product with it in is bad, but its just marketing. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by rovexCDTi; 23rd June 2012 at 11:04..