Hydra mount and front wishbone bushes

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Thanks for the advice. Got to take my daughter to acrobatics and then go to the in-laws today for a birthday cream tea in the far North of Devon . Tomorrow is a swimming fun session followed by a party for my nieces 3rd birthday.
So no time for 'playing' with cars as Mrs Andy so eloquently put it this weekend.

Originally Posted by Cable Tie

Heat it up it’ll crack off easier

That'll be my next attempt to find my blow torch...

Originally Posted by trikey

The worst one I ever had took 1 four foot extension pipe on the end of the spanner to crack the bolt.

Some can be very very stubborn.

..and then my special piece of scaffold pipe

Originally Posted by bigblue75

Definitely a job to do with the car on ramps. I used a jack to lift the body a smidgen which helped me line up the bolt holes when putting the new bushes on.

It was on ramps but I had to mess around to jack it up to try to get the wheel off. Which was a waste of time as it didn't ultimately help.
And yes it did help to lift the subframe a little to get the bolts to line up.

Learning by trial and error, it uses up time, however it's brilliant for gaining knowledge!

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Had another go at it today, just stopped for lunch.

Changed my lower engine mount no problem took abut 10 minutes

No luck with the offside wishbone bush rear bolt.
Spent ages heating it with a blow torch but it is not moving.

Out of desperation I removed the front bolt an gave the old bush a whack with a persuader to see if that would free it.
What happened was the bush fairly freely moved around the bolt, without the bolt moving.
I've come to the conclusion that the bolt is most probably cross-threaded
I'm now dreading the answer to this problem??

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Andy_with_a_screwdriver

Had another go at it today, just stopped for lunch.

Changed my lower engine mount no problem took abut 10 minutes

Hi Andrew.
Is the arm still attached to the car, if so maybe it would help if you removed it first, you could cut through the inner bush and bend that in a little to help /aid remove the arm.

Once the arm is off any bush left in the unit could then be cut out, with the arm out of the way you maybe be able to knock the out case round a little to help crack the bolt.

If not then you could always put the other bolt back in then opt for using poly bush the ones where they push into each other just a thought ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...jLl:rk:41:pf:0

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Thanks Steve,
The arm is still attached to the car, I haven't tried to remove it.
I did try to take the nearside arm off but couldn't because the lower strut pinch bolt was seized solid. In the end I didn't need to remove it.

I've got this pair below from DMGRS.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...1760-rbx101770

The the rear bolt which won't budge either way, is not holding the mount close enough to the subframe, it can be rotated slightly by hand when the front bolt is removed. i discovered this when i hit it with a hammer earlier, and it moved however i could push it back by hand to re-align the front hole, this has made no difference to the bolt.

I've had another go this evening with the blow torch and now it's no different.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Andy_with_a_screwdriver

Thanks Steve,
The arm is still attached to the car, I haven't tried to remove it.
I did try to take the nearside arm off but couldn't because the lower strut pinch bolt was seized solid. In the end I didn't need to remove it.

I've got this pair below from DMGRS.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...1760-rbx101770

Ok then would you be able to cut/drill/grind through the mount around the bolt, so it leaves just the bolts sticking out of the sub frame.

If you could then maybe you could heat the bolt up direct and it may more also you can get some plus gas direct at the thread, again these are only thoughts I have never done the above, so just throwing some ideas into the ring

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

I posted a question on the technical forum earlier, seems things are doubling up a bit.

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=289183

I've been wondering about how to do it, may try the garage let someone else struggle!

[marinabrian]

Andy this is the easier of the two bolts to get at, and rather than being cross threaded, it is probably severely rusted due to not having been tightened correctly in the first instance.

It would take superhuman strength to pull a bolt of that dimension down to almost nipped while being cross threaded, so much so that I believe it to be nigh on impossible unless you happen to have green skin

I know you've tried a breaker bar, but what I would suggest is a long 18mm combination spanner fitted upside down, and operate the spanner with your leg rather than your arm, and try tightening first

Even if it had been cross threaded, it will be possible to undo the bolt.

Brian

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Andy this is the easier of the two bolts to get at, and rather than being cross threaded, it is probably severely rusted due to not having been tightened correctly in the first instance.

It would take superhuman strength to pull a bolt of that dimension down to almost nipped while being cross threaded, so much so that I believe it to be nigh on impossible unless you happen to have green skin

I know you've tried a breaker bar, but what I would suggest is a long 18mm combination spanner fitted upside down, and operate the spanner with your leg rather than your arm, and try tightening first

Even if it had been cross threaded, it will be possible to undo the bolt.

Brian

Cheers Brian,
I'm passing Halfords on the way to work in a bit, I will stop and have a look, I saw your link to the britool spanner on the other thread, will look for similar.
Andy