Most dangerous spring compressor...?

klarzy · 16th March 2014, 17:49

We own Rovers on bad roads so most of us will need a spring compressor set unless we are wealthy enough to be able to pay the man to do it for us...

Here are a couple of tips I have gleaned over the years, some learned from painful experience!!
Whether this is the first time you are trying it or just another bite of the apple, I hope there is something here that may help you..

1, NEVER undo the strut top nut before you remove the strut from the car.
2, NEVER remove the strut top nut before you have compressed the spring so it does not put pressure on the top bearing.
3, Do not do any of this with kids around or in a place where the spring can go flying and hit someone.
4, if you have a bench vice, use it to hold the middle coil in the spring when you load it down, if anything does let go it will help limit the headcount for the ambulance!!
Try to have any replacement parts you need to hand so you can get the assembly back together and the top nut back on in as short a time as possible.
Short of licking the battery terminals this is probably one of the most dangerous jobs the home mechanic will do, so think, don't rush and use the best tools you can find.
Speaking of which the spring compressors are the most critical bit for this job.
There are cheap ones, middle of the road ones and some real top kit which costs a fortune, for the home mechanic the middle of the road ones are fine.
Here are the ones I have used before...

Type 1 are the real cheap and nasty's, prone to bending and slipping I would not use them again.

Type 2 are with a hook for stability, they are better and stronger than type 1 but can still slip if you are not careful.

Type 3 are the best I have come across... they are very strong and with the double claw they are not likely to slip in use, I am confident using these on most springs.

If you are using the single claw types (1 or 2) then I would use at least 3 compressors per spring, this is for 2 reasons...
1, if 1 lets go the other 2 may save your hands
2, 3 spread at 120 degrees allows you to steer the top of the spring far easier when you are re assembling the strut, if you only use 2 on a spring you may find it going off at an angle making it harder to get the top plate on and the top nut in place which makes the job safer.
My final tip is make sure the top nut is fully on the thread with 2-3 turns of male thread on show above the nut before you release the compressors, if you only have a couple of turns on then you may strip the thread when the load of the spring goes back on to the top plate.

I have just bought a pair of the type 3 double hook variety from my local motor factors for 15.00 so they are well within most budgets when doing this job.

Have fun..!

rrobson · 16th March 2014, 18:00

Yep, a fun task it is.

I've got a set of your number 3's which I would also recommend to the DIY mechanic. However you can still pay very little for a set. I personally wouldn't even consider using either of the other two. Too dangerous even for my liking...

Darkxs · 16th March 2014, 18:10

I've got a set shown as no.3 and they are great. Get me through a few cars and springs jobs and never slipped or caused any issues.

spider13 · 16th March 2014, 18:17

I have 2 differant types of spring compressor 1 is a sealy stand up device which holds the hole strut and 2 is a snap on set which are hard to describe but are thebest money can buy, and I know what pain I like after having mymjaw broke in 4 places from a spring years ago off a pug 406
Steve

spider13 · 16th March 2014, 18:23

I have 2 differant types of spring compressor 1 is a sealy stand up device which holds the hole strut and 2 is a snap on set which are hard to describe but are thebest money can buy, and I know what pain I like after having mymjaw broke in 4 places from a spring years ago off a pug 406

2014-03-16-19-19-57-516449851.jpegSteve

SD1too · 16th March 2014, 18:32

A very helpful post Peter; thank you. You might be interested to know this though:

Quote:

Originally Posted by klarzy

If you are using the single claw types (1 or 2) then I would use at least 3 compressors per spring ...

I recently used 3 single claw compressors (in fact your type 2) on Mrs. SD1too's car's Macpherson struts. No matter how I tried, one of them always slipped. However, when I used just two of these tools, I succeeded. The spring in question was not from a 75/ZT and was side loaded. I had not come across these before, but in its relaxed position the spring adopts the shape of a banana.

I only mention this to show that there is usually an exception to every rule!

Simon

seancar · 16th March 2014, 18:35

The best advise is get someone else to do it if you have any of these mickey mouse spring compressors. I have a big compressor thats bolted to the floor and I still hate doing them. I have a cage on mine and its 20ton hydraulic ram so will compress anything but it still scares me everytime I have to do one. This is the one job I would not recommended for any diy mechanic to do. Dose not mater how skint you are I cant stress how important it is to get someone with the right tools and know how to change springs top strutt mounts. If you get it wrong and it goes horribly wrong it can result in death or serious injury. I have seen the serious injury and its not nice a yoing lad lost half his face his eye.

klarzy · 16th March 2014, 18:55

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions.
I hope this just goes a little way to stopping someone getting hurt..
How often to we see internet sales sending tools out to people who have no real idea of their use or the dangers involved. If I did this in the factories I cover then I would probably be prosecuted.

marinabrian · 16th March 2014, 19:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by klarzy

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions.
I hope this just goes a little way to stopping someone getting hurt..
How often to we see internet sales sending tools out to people who have no real idea of their use or the dangers involved. If I did this in the factories I cover then I would probably be prosecuted.

I just use cable ties and ratchet straps personally, no need for fancy tools

Just kidding, my spring compressors are made by the Ram manufacturing company, and I use two sets and compress the spring evenly, using a piece of old hosepipe split to protect the powder coating from damage during the compression stages.

I always have a healthy respect for the stored energy in compressed springs, but Sean's comment bring to mind the antics of a member going by the name of humptynumpty, now there was an accident waiting to happen

Brian

murphyv310 · 16th March 2014, 19:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

I always have a healthy respect for the stored energy in compressed springs, but Sean's comment bring to mind the antics of a member going by the name of humptynumpty, now there was an accident waiting to happen

Brian

Hi. Is he still around? I used to cringe with some of his posts

16th March 2014, 17:49	#1
klarzy This is my second home none but not gone Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: March, Cambs Posts: 16,437 Thanks: 894 Thanked 4,247 Times in 3,025 Posts	Most dangerous spring compressor...? We own Rovers on bad roads so most of us will need a spring compressor set unless we are wealthy enough to be able to pay the man to do it for us... Here are a couple of tips I have gleaned over the years, some learned from painful experience!! Whether this is the first time you are trying it or just another bite of the apple, I hope there is something here that may help you.. 1, NEVER undo the strut top nut before you remove the strut from the car. 2, NEVER remove the strut top nut before you have compressed the spring so it does not put pressure on the top bearing. 3, Do not do any of this with kids around or in a place where the spring can go flying and hit someone. 4, if you have a bench vice, use it to hold the middle coil in the spring when you load it down, if anything does let go it will help limit the headcount for the ambulance!! Try to have any replacement parts you need to hand so you can get the assembly back together and the top nut back on in as short a time as possible. Short of licking the battery terminals this is probably one of the most dangerous jobs the home mechanic will do, so think, don't rush and use the best tools you can find. Speaking of which the spring compressors are the most critical bit for this job. There are cheap ones, middle of the road ones and some real top kit which costs a fortune, for the home mechanic the middle of the road ones are fine. Here are the ones I have used before... Type 1 are the real cheap and nasty's, prone to bending and slipping I would not use them again. Type 2 are with a hook for stability, they are better and stronger than type 1 but can still slip if you are not careful. Type 3 are the best I have come across... they are very strong and with the double claw they are not likely to slip in use, I am confident using these on most springs. If you are using the single claw types (1 or 2) then I would use at least 3 compressors per spring, this is for 2 reasons... 1, if 1 lets go the other 2 may save your hands 2, 3 spread at 120 degrees allows you to steer the top of the spring far easier when you are re assembling the strut, if you only use 2 on a spring you may find it going off at an angle making it harder to get the top plate on and the top nut in place which makes the job safer. My final tip is make sure the top nut is fully on the thread with 2-3 turns of male thread on show above the nut before you release the compressors, if you only have a couple of turns on then you may strip the thread when the load of the spring goes back on to the top plate. I have just bought a pair of the type 3 double hook variety from my local motor factors for 15.00 so they are well within most budgets when doing this job. Have fun..! __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]….All praise Bananaswan…. Last edited by klarzy; 31st July 2014 at 12:01..

16th March 2014, 18:00	#2
rrobson I really should get out more....... 75 tourer cdti, MG ZS 180, nissan terrano & 1.8t rover 25 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pontefract Posts: 2,647 Thanks: 17 Thanked 295 Times in 218 Posts	Yep, a fun task it is. I've got a set of your number 3's which I would also recommend to the DIY mechanic. However you can still pay very little for a set. I personally wouldn't even consider using either of the other two. Too dangerous even for my liking... __________________ How to view a car - everything you need to help you inspect a used car VIS motor tester avalible to local members Injector removal tool and auto gearbox pressure tester now available

16th March 2014, 18:10	#3
Darkxs Gets stuck in Ex Rover 75 CDT Mk1 Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 578 Thanks: 117 Thanked 91 Times in 79 Posts	I've got a set shown as no.3 and they are great. Get me through a few cars and springs jobs and never slipped or caused any issues. __________________ Peugeot 407 HDI Coupe Ex MGF Ex Rover 75 CDT Einhundertsechzig

16th March 2014, 18:55	#8
klarzy This is my second home none but not gone Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: March, Cambs Posts: 16,437 Thanks: 894 Thanked 4,247 Times in 3,025 Posts	Thanks all for the comments and suggestions. I hope this just goes a little way to stopping someone getting hurt.. How often to we see internet sales sending tools out to people who have no real idea of their use or the dangers involved. If I did this in the factories I cover then I would probably be prosecuted. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]….All praise Bananaswan….

16th March 2014, 18:17	#4
spider13 Avid contributor rover 75 1.8t x2 mgf 1.8 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: newport Posts: 123 Thanks: 4 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	I have 2 differant types of spring compressor 1 is a sealy stand up device which holds the hole strut and 2 is a snap on set which are hard to describe but are thebest money can buy, and I know what pain I like after having mymjaw broke in 4 places from a spring years ago off a pug 406 Steve

16th March 2014, 18:23	#5
spider13 Avid contributor rover 75 1.8t x2 mgf 1.8 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: newport Posts: 123 Thanks: 4 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	I have 2 differant types of spring compressor 1 is a sealy stand up device which holds the hole strut and 2 is a snap on set which are hard to describe but are thebest money can buy, and I know what pain I like after having mymjaw broke in 4 places from a spring years ago off a pug 406 2014-03-16-19-19-57-516449851.jpegSteve

16th March 2014, 18:35	#7
seancar Banned 75 tourer and t4 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: bexhill on sea Posts: 4,428 Thanks: 278 Thanked 731 Times in 350 Posts	The best advise is get someone else to do it if you have any of these mickey mouse spring compressors. I have a big compressor thats bolted to the floor and I still hate doing them. I have a cage on mine and its 20ton hydraulic ram so will compress anything but it still scares me everytime I have to do one. This is the one job I would not recommended for any diy mechanic to do. Dose not mater how skint you are I cant stress how important it is to get someone with the right tools and know how to change springs top strutt mounts. If you get it wrong and it goes horribly wrong it can result in death or serious injury. I have seen the serious injury and its not nice a yoing lad lost half his face his eye.