How to secure intercooler hose on CDT?

[Johnny2R]

A while back as I was driving along I noticed a sudden slight drop in power and I thought to myself, "Ah, the intercooler hose has popped off". Didn't check then, and have hardly used the car since, but recent observation of black smoke under acceleration made me have a look today and, sure enough, it's come loose at the connection with the intercooler. For the life of me, though, I can't remember how to reconnect it, and the guides I've found on here seem to have the photos missing.

I've been down this process before a few years ago so it should be just a case of jogging my memory. I got an SFS (?) replacement hose then, and Viton O-rings. Both O-rings are still on the hose, although the one nearer the end is seated in a slight groove which isn't continuous, meaning it protrudes slightly in one or two places. I can't remember whether this is how it should be.

The problem I have is access (as ever). As far as I recall, I unscrew the bolt holding the small tank allowing me to pull it out of the way and get a better view. But how do I actually push the bottom of the hose home into the intercooler? It seems to require a combination of precision and force which is difficult at that point. Also, the bottom elbow attaches to a plate with a bolt hole, designed, I assume, to secure the hose to some point on the intercooler. At the moment this is just floating free, though.

[grivas]

Originally Posted by Johnny2R

A while back as I was driving along I noticed a sudden slight drop in power and I thought to myself, "Ah, the intercooler hose has popped off". Didn't check then, and have hardly used the car since, but recent observation of black smoke under acceleration made me have a look today and, sure enough, it's come loose at the connection with the intercooler. For the life of me, though, I can't remember how to reconnect it, and the guides I've found on here seem to have the photos missing.

I've been down this process before a few years ago so it should be just a case of jogging my memory. I got an SFS (?) replacement hose then, and Viton O-rings. Both O-rings are still on the hose, although the one nearer the end is seated in a slight groove which isn't continuous, meaning it protrudes slightly in one or two places. I can't remember whether this is how it should be.

The problem I have is access (as ever). As far as I recall, I unscrew the bolt holding the small tank allowing me to pull it out of the way and get a better view. But how do I actually push the bottom of the hose home into the intercooler? It seems to require a combination of precision and force which is difficult at that point. Also, the bottom elbow attaches to a plate with a bolt hole, designed, I assume, to secure the hose to some point on the intercooler. At the moment this is just floating free, though.

I personally would remove the front bumper, it is not difficult and this will give you best access, this way you can see how everything fits into the intercooler, replace the original o-rings with genuine viton ones and ensure they seat in the correct positions when so fitted they should not protrude anywhere, then it is a matter of pushing the end onto the intercooler elbow, no need to use brute force when engaged correctly you will know it.

[Arctic]

Hi John.
Yes remove the remove the header tank 8mm bolt so you can lower it down and to the left, letting lie on the coolant hoses.

Now undo the jubilee clip around intercooler hose /EGR and pull the hose off the EGR.

With a torch look at the plastic bend and find the 8mm bolt which is attached the radiator cowling remove this carefully do not let it drop onto the undertray.

Once removed you can the pull up on the hose and plastic bend this will allow the hose and bend to come free from the intercooler & car.

With the intercooler hose and bend off the car remove the hose from the bend, clean it up add the new Viton O-rings to the bend, grease them with rubber grease/ Vaseline.

Reach down into the intercooler and remove any O-ring left behind, use a rag to clean the insertion hole, then re-instate the bend into the intercooler by push and twisting downwards, making sure you keep the fixpoint on the bend behind the point on the radiator fit the 8mm bolt, do not over tighten it as if you do you may crack the fixing point.

Now you have the bend in place you can refit the hose to the bend & the EGR hopefully that will help

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

[Johnny2R]

Thanks, Arctic. My recollection from the last time I did this was that for some reason, the fixing point on the bracket did not line up with the mount point on the radiator (with the 8mm bolt) when the hose was pushed into place, which obviously makes it vulnerable to popping off. I don't know whether it is the result of some work done when a new fan was installed a few years ago. I'll see if I can find some other way to hold it in place.

[COLVERT]

Intercooler hose with bumper off.---

[Johnny2R]

I have to say it does look easier with the bumper off. I can't easily get under the car where it is, though (no stable surface to use a jack on, it's a gravel drive) and I imagine I might be required to do so.

[Arctic]

The photo you have put up is of the bottom intercooler hose which never needs any service, well I have never changed one in the last 12 years.

It is only easier to access the intercooler O-ring area with the bumper off and the crash bar as in the photo's below.

With crash bar in place.
1

Without crash bar
2

3

The bracket on the radiator where the bend is attached with 8mm bolt
4

5

looking into the intercooler once the bend as been removed, 99.9% an old O-ring will be left behind.
6

At the Nano meets, I always change the bend with Viton O-rings from above 10 minutes job.

[clf]

Just to add to what arctic was saying (because I followed the how to, after i attempted to do it from above). When i first got the car I was disappointed in the power, and went forth in checking or replacing known issues (I didn't have huge amounts of smoke though), I replaced the o rings, (which did obviously need to be replaced) but on refitting, I pushed the elbow home hard, but no 'thunk' as often mentioned. But it was in, and tight, so was the mounting screw. Thought nothing more about it, as the smoke lessened.

It was only after I was replacing the hoses I noticed a lot of smoke/oil staining behind the hose. The elbow was obviously leaking. Headlight was out (as I was replacing the bottom hose too - they were half price lol). Refitting was easier with the headlight out, but more importantly, there was a thunk as it seated. There is no staining and less smoke on acceleration (whether this has to do with the hoses or the seating of the elbow I cannot say, but can say it is more precise as well as easier with the headlight removed).

Heavy smoke could also be injectors as well as the maf mentioned above too, but the common issue (and cheaper) is the o rings. A t4 visit may be beneficial at this point.

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

[Johnny2R]

Nobody let me near their car! The more I do, the worse it gets! I checked to make sure all the hose connections were nice and snug and went for a test drive this afternoon. Under hard acceleration, not only was there the same hideous cloud of smoke, but I could actually hear a hiss coming from the area of the intercooler! Oddly, as I went on, this hiss largely disappeared, but clearly there is something wrong there. I think I'll need to take everything apart again tomorrow and make sure the O-rings are properly in place and the bend pushed home with the requisite thunk.

I would be assuming that something else was causing the smoke if it were not for this hiss, but it does seem that the intercooler piping must still be prime suspect.

[75driver]

Although intercooler o rings would still be prime suspect, have a good look around the intercooler for holes.
There would be a sludgy mess around any hole.
I have had a holed intercooler, but didn’t manifest itself as black smoke though.🤔


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk