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Old 3rd August 2011, 18:14   #11
steve 135+
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bry68lufc View Post
just removed it and now have clutch thanks guys...now the problem is my car doesnt lock from the key fob since battery has been reconnected any ideas on that its not battery as its a newish one
Your fob needs re syncing, can't just remember how many times you have to press both buttons together, ten i think, stand in front of the car and point the fob at the car, this should sync your fob, Ste
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Old 3rd August 2011, 18:18   #12
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cheers ste il give that a whirl thanks
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Old 9th January 2015, 23:34   #13
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Originally Posted by steve 135+ View Post
Hi first thing, your clutch pedal should be in the up position all the time you are bleeding the system, even with the cap off the pedal should be normal after bleeding.

The only thing i can advise is to check the following,
1 Master cylinder push rod is connected and not leaking, there is a return valve built into the cylinder, this could have failed.
2 Slave cylinder, very difficult to check if it's leaking, as if the cylinder is leaking only a every small amount of fluid this will not show under the gearbox, they only show leaking fluid when they have completely failed.
3 When bleeding do-not let any air into the system.
4 Check the union joint for signs of fluid leaks.

If you find any of the above, you will have to replace the part that's faulty, you are using a power bleeder? and not bleeding the system by pumping the pedal, as sometimes this does not work very well, Steve

Are you sure the clutch pedal should be in the up position all the time you are bleeding?

If you leave the clutch pedal in the up position you are not pushing any fluid towards the slave.

The way I would bleed the system is get someone to push the pedal all the way to the bottom and hold it there while I loosen the nipple. And keep repeating the process until all air bubbles are out of the system.
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Old 10th January 2015, 09:35   #14
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The other way is to reverse bleed by syringing fluid back from the bleed nipple to the master. Make sure that you have a good container to catch the overflow under the master. I've not tried this on a 75 but have done it on several other cars to good effect.
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Old 10th January 2015, 10:19   #15
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Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
The other way is to reverse bleed by syringing fluid back from the bleed nipple to the master. Make sure that you have a good container to catch the overflow under the master. I've not tried this on a 75 but have done it on several other cars to good effect.
Mike
This is how Im planning to bleed mine. Air rises so it just doesn't make sense trying to bleed it from top to bottom. You will never get all the air out or it that way.
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Old 10th January 2015, 11:29   #16
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This is how Im planning to bleed mine. Air rises so it just doesn't make sense trying to bleed it from top to bottom. You will never get all the air out or it that way.
It's the bit where it drops through the bell housing that can be difficult for the air to get past. I've heard that a washing up liquid bottle, suitably cleaned out of course, can be used instead of a syringe.
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Old 10th January 2015, 13:31   #17
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Those clutch judder 'devices' are a nightmare - they either start leaking, or cause biting point issues. They also don't really sort the original problem out!
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Old 10th January 2015, 13:57   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
It's the bit where it drops through the bell housing that can be difficult for the air to get past. I've heard that a washing up liquid bottle, suitably cleaned out of course, can be used instead of a syringe.
Mike
Not sure what point you are making here.

My point is that air rises, so one is fighting a losing battle trying to push it down through a pipe and out of a bleed nipple.

Better to attach a new oil can full of brake fluid to the bleed nipple and pump the new fluid in, pushing the old fluid up and out the top of the MC.
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Old 11th August 2016, 04:48   #19
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Pumping fluid up into the system sounds easier & seems to make sense. How many have done it this way?
I'm now noticing that my bite-point has gone down somewhat & the clutch pedal feels a little less reassuring though no problem changing gear as yet. A bleed seems the way to start.

Also, what does this anti-judder device look like & where is it located? I've probably still got one fitted.
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Old 11th August 2016, 06:51   #20
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Reverse bleeding worked for me: (post#58)

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...=236936&page=6

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