Electric window issue

Rsnail · 22nd January 2024, 09:30

Hello guys I have a problem with my passenger side electric window (LHD european car), some weeks ago I started hearing some crunchy sounds "grr-grr" kind of, but the window was still working normally. That lasted until today when I wanted to roll up the window and started hearing a more intense crunchy sound and then it stopped working at all. Does anyone know what could cause this so I can already order it without me having to unmount the door panel for now? The electric motor still seems to be working perfectly fine because I can hear it and it is definitely functional. Thank you!

MissMoppet · 22nd January 2024, 11:22

Prob cable snapped. Plenty of passenger side complete regulators on eBay: it's driver side in UK that are hard to find as obviously they get the most wear. Suggest you throughly spray grease everywhere the "new" cable runs, particularly round the drum at bottom which prob shows rusty cable where it has parted.

Rsnail · 26th January 2024, 18:51

I quiet doubt it's the cable, my reasoning: when it snaps it snaps and it stops working suddenly, in my case, the grinding cruching noise started happening some good weeks ago, way before this happened, so that couldn't have been the cable which was "about" to snap I guess, what would you think? Any more opinions?

GeoffWW · 26th January 2024, 20:57

When the cable starts to rust, the strands of wire start to snap individually and break away from the main cable. Once these strands get to the guide wheels, they cannot stay in line with the main cable and break away and start to go round and round the guide wheels.
This accumulation of even just two or three strands wound around a guide wheel a few times gives the grinding noise you have heard

Rogue · 26th January 2024, 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

I quiet doubt it's the cable, my reasoning: when it snaps it snaps and it stops working suddenly, in my case, the grinding cruching noise started happening some good weeks ago, way before this happened, so that couldn't have been the cable which was "about" to snap I guess, what would you think? Any more opinions?

The grinding noise is exactly what occurred on mine before the cable snapped.

Rsnail · 26th January 2024, 22:40

Thank you so much for the explanations guys! My last question. Is it possible to replace only the cable? Or do I have to replace something else along with it too for whichever reason? If so, do you have the part nr for the cable and possibly for the part that would have to replaced along with it too? Thanks again

MissMoppet · 27th January 2024, 09:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

Thank you so much for the explanations guys! My last question. Is it possible to replace only the cable? Or do I have to replace something else along with it too for whichever reason? If so, do you have the part nr for the cable and possibly for the part that would have to replaced along with it too? Thanks again

Theoretically you could replace the cable - it's a standard Bowden as used by bikes since year dot, if you can find a bike shop to make one up, but they're not dear complete off eBay particularly as you want a passenger side in our terminology. And once you get the door card off and see how complicated the cable run is I don't think you'll want to go the cable route.

Arctic · 27th January 2024, 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissMoppet

Theoretically you could replace the cable - it's a standard Bowden as used by bikes since year dot, if you can find a bike shop to make one up, but they're not dear complete off eBay particularly as you want a passenger side in our terminology. And once you get the door card off and see how complicated the cable run is I don't think you'll want to go the cable route.

This is how the window mechanism look out of the car.

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back doors above.

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Note kinks in the cable.

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I doubt it will be the motors they seem robust.
[img]https://15
i.imgur.com/dMArpLGl.jpg[/img]10

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I think i have a bag of cables and cogs etc somewhere? but of cause you are in Germany i think (Galambosi)

Rsnail · 27th January 2024, 13:58

So in order to avoid the hassle of replacing only the cable, can anyone tell me the part nr. for the part/s that I'd need to order and replace the whole mechanism?

Thank you Arctic! Once I'll figure out what part nr. I'll need to replace maybe you could tell me how much you want for that specific one/s if you'd still have that around somewhere, of course only if it wouldn't be a hassle for you shipping them

MissMoppet · 27th January 2024, 22:13

Several on eBay here (only £25!).

22nd January 2024, 09:30	#1
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Electric window issue Hello guys I have a problem with my passenger side electric window (LHD european car), some weeks ago I started hearing some crunchy sounds "grr-grr" kind of, but the window was still working normally. That lasted until today when I wanted to roll up the window and started hearing a more intense crunchy sound and then it stopped working at all. Does anyone know what could cause this so I can already order it without me having to unmount the door panel for now? The electric motor still seems to be working perfectly fine because I can hear it and it is definitely functional. Thank you!

22nd January 2024, 11:22	#2
MissMoppet Posted a thing or two R 75 Tourer diesel Conny 2002, V6 Conny saloon petrol 2003 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Taunton Posts: 1,132 Thanks: 212 Thanked 406 Times in 223 Posts	Prob cable snapped. Plenty of passenger side complete regulators on eBay: it's driver side in UK that are hard to find as obviously they get the most wear. Suggest you throughly spray grease everywhere the "new" cable runs, particularly round the drum at bottom which prob shows rusty cable where it has parted. __________________ Rover 75 Tourer Conny 2002 remapped 160 auto, R75 V6 2.5L auto Connoisseur 2003

27th January 2024, 22:13	#10
MissMoppet Posted a thing or two R 75 Tourer diesel Conny 2002, V6 Conny saloon petrol 2003 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Taunton Posts: 1,132 Thanks: 212 Thanked 406 Times in 223 Posts	Several on eBay here (only £25!). __________________ Rover 75 Tourer Conny 2002 remapped 160 auto, R75 V6 2.5L auto Connoisseur 2003

26th January 2024, 18:51	#3
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	I quiet doubt it's the cable, my reasoning: when it snaps it snaps and it stops working suddenly, in my case, the grinding cruching noise started happening some good weeks ago, way before this happened, so that couldn't have been the cable which was "about" to snap I guess, what would you think? Any more opinions?

26th January 2024, 20:57	#4
GeoffWW Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi Tourer Connoisseur SE Auto, Also fully restored Mk 2 1966 MG Midget Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Manchester Posts: 314 Thanks: 49 Thanked 59 Times in 46 Posts	When the cable starts to rust, the strands of wire start to snap individually and break away from the main cable. Once these strands get to the guide wheels, they cannot stay in line with the main cable and break away and start to go round and round the guide wheels. This accumulation of even just two or three strands wound around a guide wheel a few times gives the grinding noise you have heard

26th January 2024, 22:40	#6
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Thank you so much for the explanations guys! My last question. Is it possible to replace only the cable? Or do I have to replace something else along with it too for whichever reason? If so, do you have the part nr for the cable and possibly for the part that would have to replaced along with it too? Thanks again

27th January 2024, 13:58	#9
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	So in order to avoid the hassle of replacing only the cable, can anyone tell me the part nr. for the part/s that I'd need to order and replace the whole mechanism? Thank you Arctic! Once I'll figure out what part nr. I'll need to replace maybe you could tell me how much you want for that specific one/s if you'd still have that around somewhere, of course only if it wouldn't be a hassle for you shipping them