Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 19th February 2018, 21:16   #11
Sheraton
Posted a thing or two
 
Rover 75 1.8t

Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1,377
Thanks: 384
Thanked 409 Times in 267 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Because if you anneal it there is no need to.
How do you Anneal Aluminium ? - and why not just purchase washer and filter




Paul.
Sheraton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 21:19   #12
Andy_with_a_screwdriver
Gets stuck in
 
Andy_with_a_screwdriver's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Tourer CDTi

Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 685
Thanks: 141
Thanked 153 Times in 117 Posts
Default

Get a tube of blue silicone, it costs about £5, I've bought one tube in the last 10 years.
Put a thin layer either side of the copper washer before replacing it. I used to replace the copper washer but don't bother now, never had a problem in those 10 years.
upon removal simply scratch/peel away old silicone and repeat process.
Andy_with_a_screwdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 21:22   #13
Sheraton
Posted a thing or two
 
Rover 75 1.8t

Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1,377
Thanks: 384
Thanked 409 Times in 267 Posts
Default

the 1.8 is the easiest engine possibly ever for an Oil change - why the need to cut corners ?

the drain plug and filter can be accessed without even lifting the car seems unnecessary to not follow the standard procedure - and if you pay for oil and filter why not a washer costs pence does it not




Paul.
Sheraton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 21:24   #14
Sheraton
Posted a thing or two
 
Rover 75 1.8t

Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1,377
Thanks: 384
Thanked 409 Times in 267 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_with_a_screwdriver View Post
Get a tube of blue silicone, it costs about £5, I've bought one tube in the last 10 years.
Put a thin layer either side of the copper washer before replacing it. I used to replace the copper washer but don't bother now, never had a problem in those 10 years.
upon removal simply scratch/peel away old silicone and repeat process.


I'd rather buy 10 washers - i'd trust them to still be usable after 10 years


Paul.
Sheraton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 21:25   #15
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

Never changed one yet in 55 plus years of mechanical mayhem.--

Never, ever had an oil leak either.--

That includes cars, bikes and garden machinery.

Last edited by COLVERT; 19th February 2018 at 21:31..
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 21:34   #16
Andy_with_a_screwdriver
Gets stuck in
 
Andy_with_a_screwdriver's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Tourer CDTi

Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 685
Thanks: 141
Thanked 153 Times in 117 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheraton View Post
I'd rather buy 10 washers - i'd trust them to still be usable after 10 years


Paul.
But I couldn't use them on power steering pumps, effluent pumps and leaky baths as well though
Andy_with_a_screwdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 21:53   #17
Sheraton
Posted a thing or two
 
Rover 75 1.8t

Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1,377
Thanks: 384
Thanked 409 Times in 267 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_with_a_screwdriver View Post
But I couldn't use them on power steering pumps, effluent pumps and leaky baths as well though
You won't be sealing much with an open tube sitting for 10 years


Sometimes the right tool for the job IS the right tool for the job


Paul.
Sheraton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 22:26   #18
Andy_with_a_screwdriver
Gets stuck in
 
Andy_with_a_screwdriver's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Tourer CDTi

Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 685
Thanks: 141
Thanked 153 Times in 117 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheraton View Post
You won't be sealing much with an open tube sitting for 10 years


Sometimes the right tool for the job IS the right tool for the job


Paul.

I agree with you about using the right tools for the right job and my various overfull tool boxes will prove this.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...71700&&cc5_139

However this stuff, with the lid screwed back on properly after use and not bothering with the nozzle, has kept ok for a long time and has been used for a variety of things.

I use bog standard sanitary silicone for work a lot and that stuff along with gripfill, caulk etc will only last for a few months.
Andy_with_a_screwdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 22:45   #19
Mike Noc
This is my second home
 
Mike Noc's Avatar
 
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4.

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 11,531
Thanks: 3,470
Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheraton View Post
How do you Anneal Aluminium ? - and why not just purchase washer and filter

Paul.
Paul, you must have missed my earlier post so here it is in context:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rustymotor View Post
Hi, you could try and anneal it yourself, there is some info here
We did them on a gas cooker.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Only if it is copper though.

I have annealed the washer on my sump plug countless times with no problem.

If it is an aluminium washer and you need to re-use it then just smear the last couple of threads of the bolt and top side of the washer with some Instant Gasket and you will be fine.
Of course it is possible to anneal aluminium if you want to, but it is a tricky metal to anneal, which is why I advised using a sealant instead:

http://www.steamshed.com/annealing%20process.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheraton View Post
the 1.8 is the easiest engine possibly ever for an Oil change - why the need to cut corners ?

the drain plug and filter can be accessed without even lifting the car seems unnecessary to not follow the standard procedure - and if you pay for oil and filter why not a washer costs pence does it not

Paul.
Just about every filter for the diesel comes with a washer that is too small for the M47R engine. Yes it costs pence to obtain the correct sized washer, but far greener to re-use the old one.

At the end of the day each to their own.




.

Last edited by Mike Noc; 19th February 2018 at 22:49..
Mike Noc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 23:39   #20
david75
Posted a thing or two
 
david75's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 V6 Conn SE, 04; Rover 75 1.8 conn, 02

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Southend
Posts: 1,169
Thanks: 544
Thanked 302 Times in 165 Posts
Default

When I have bought filters from DMGRS on here, there is always a washer with it in the box, so I use it.

Related question:
Do people torque to the recommended tightness, 25 nm? I do, but wondered how critical it is. Couple of times on first oil change I've done on a car, oil plug has been extremely tight (by previous owner or a garage), needing huge force to undo. But why over-tighten, with risk of damaging sump thread?
__________________
david75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 23:29.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd