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Old 13th February 2021, 08:29   #1
harrisop48
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Default Stupid boy!!!!!

Major problem recently, full blown issue today. Always had a problem with a lazy n/s rear door solenoid. Needed two presses to unlock. In the frost last Friday, opened car to see door open on IPK. Tried to lock, beeped back at me. Stayed in car for 15 mins until door lock thawed out.
Shiner advised squirt silicone spray inside door lock. No idea which door lock.
RogerHeinz57 suggested 1st use WD40, then as water based use hair dryer to ensure dry then spray GT85 with PTFE. Did that on front n/s door seemed to do the trick.
Turns out it is the rear n/s door. Door catch open would not shut.
STUPID BOY!!!!! fiddled with catch and made it lock with door open. Cannot now get it to unlock so cannot close door. Drove home with door barely closed on bungee. Quite entertaining to have to reach back and pull shut after going round RH corners.
Got home and sprayed lock liberally with WD40. Will carry on fiddling and keep you all updated.
Sarcasm hugely welcome but practical advice preferred.

Peter the Plonker!!!
Will carry on fiddling and keep you all updated.
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Old 13th February 2021, 10:33   #2
harrisop48
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Default Stand Down Chaps.

Now down from -4 to -2. Fiddled and pharted with unlock a couple of times and lock. NSR Door lock still jammed. Did not swear or pray - Honest to God.
Tried it all again and Voila! now sorted. Will be giving the lock a good seeing to tomorrow or Monday when it is warmer.
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Old 13th February 2021, 10:49   #3
AndrewJames
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I had a similar problem recently in the other recent cold snap although on the near side front door. Mine was stuck shut and the door couldn't be opened. The fix involved removing the door card which is definitely harder with the door shut.

It is possible that with the cold weather and doors being harder to open that the rod connecting the exterior handle to the lock mechanism on the inside of the door can become dislodged or can change position to the point that it isn't functioning properly...It is basically a rod with a not so impressive white plastic clip on the end which then connects to a lever on the actuator. With the door card off you can reach inside the door and push this lever down yourself to check it works (make sure the car isn't superlocked - the lever wouldn't open my door until I tried with the engine running... I have no buttons on my fob to unsuperlock). Then you can reposition the placement of the rod within the clip until you have a working door.

I am not great at explaining things. Hopefully someone else comes along who is better

Disclaimer: having not seen the interiors of a rear door I'm not 100% sure if the set up is the same as the front

Last edited by AndrewJames; 13th February 2021 at 10:57..
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Old 13th February 2021, 10:52   #4
dattrike
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Default

Had the same myself with rear right door, hot water on the door skin to thaw out the mechanism,
then a spray with ACF 50 inside the mechanism. Also sprayed the other doors mechanisms as well.
All fine now.





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Old 13th February 2021, 11:02   #5
roverbarmy
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ACF 50 is great! Just keep it clear of brakes! Can be used near electrics too. Great for keeping aluminium free from corrosion.

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk
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Old 13th February 2021, 11:20   #6
coolguy
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This is known to be a frost problem. However, when my rear doors have refused to close in such circumstances, I have found that just a couple of presses on the centre console lock/unlock button does the trick most times.
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Old 13th February 2021, 11:32   #7
SD1too
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewJames View Post
... I have no buttons on my fob to unsuperlock).
Hi Andrew,

RAVE says that the buttons on your key fob always control superlocking (on the assumption that it's the standard MG Rover item).

Simon
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Old 13th February 2021, 11:38   #8
AndrewJames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hi Andrew,

RAVE says that the buttons on your key fob always control superlocking (on the assumption that it's the standard MG Rover item).

Simon
Hi Simon,

Thanks but I didn't properly explain. My fob is the standard MG rover one with two buttons but only my lock button works. Having had the key apart, I know the unlock button has fallen out at some point and I know nothing about soldering so I just live like this
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Old 13th February 2021, 11:43   #9
vitesse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewJames View Post
Hi Simon,

Thanks but I didn't properly explain. My fob is the standard MG rover one with two buttons but only my lock button works. Having had the key apart, I know the unlock button has fallen out at some point and I know nothing about soldering so I just live like this
If you get the freeware programme Toaf you can easily add a s/h keyfob remote board without any soldering. You'll need version .43 not the latest .51 one.

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Old 13th February 2021, 11:59   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitesse View Post
If you get the freeware programme Toaf you can easily add a s/h keyfob remote board without any soldering. You'll need version .43 not the latest .51 one.

Regards
Thanks for the tip. I'll read into it later today.
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