2003/53 ZT-T 190 KV6 2.5 Non Start Petrol

[COLVERT]

You say the fuel was low in the tank.--You also say you've added A GALLON.--That's nowhere near enough and 1 gallon will make virtually NO difference.---You need at an absolute minimum half a tank of fuel to get the result you want.--( ie. the engine ticking over.-- )

[Thunderbolt]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I din't get that impression when tightening mine (twice). I've since tightened another one a couple of times and both were very difficult to line up. Are you a body builder?

In my experience and from everything I 've read since, the o-ring is the weakest link. Considering the age and environment, the o-rings may fail once decompressed. In my own case, I fitted the orange clip, but it still wouldn't start. Eventually, I had to go back into the tank and fit a new o-ring. This was how the old one looked when I separated it all.

I put the old ring in the cap. It doesn't fit there obviously.


If the right hand side level got too low to prime the pump, it will typically take two or three attempts on the starter to get fuel into the rails and pressurised. It seems like yours simply isn't doing that, so I'm thinking there's still some leakage from the filter module.

TC

TC,

Not a body builder, ex international level heavyweight MMA, so not slightly built.

It’s had a damn good go at priming the system, hence the idea of hooking it up to the sprinter, the starter motor flies then.

Easy start next.

[Thunderbolt]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

You say the fuel was low in the tank.--You also say you've added A GALLON.--That's nowhere near enough and 1 gallon will make virtually NO difference.---You need at an absolute minimum half a tank of fuel to get the result you want.--( ie. the engine ticking over.-- )

Gauge says nearly half full now.

But I guess we all know how accurate that is!!!

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Thunderbolt

TC, Not a body builder, ex international level heavyweight MMA, so not slightly built.

Ah, that could explain it - but, I'm still worried about the clunk/click thing.

It’s had a damn good go at priming the system, hence the idea of hooking it up to the sprinter, the starter motor flies then.

It only needs the pickup cup on the base of the tank to be submerged and the pump will prime. Given that, the rail will pressurise and the in-tank circulation system does the rest.
How to Understand Fuel Tanks (Post 4): https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=271894

Easy start next.

Looking forward to the results.


TC

[vitesse]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I think so too. You mentioned earlier about trying a squirt of Easy Start into the air inlet. That could be an interesting/informative test because I've got a niggleling suspicion that it won't start, due to inhibited sparks, due to low fuel pressure. But seems nobody knows, so try it, just for me.

TC

A note for your library of knowledge:

Low fuel pressure at 2 bar won't inhibit sparks based on my experience. See https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=288971 post 6

Regards

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Thunderbolt

The plugs aren’t wet, but do have a kniff of fuel.

With all the cranking you've been doing I'm surprised they're not wet.

So where are we this morning?

We think that the engine isn't being fuelled due to either:

• Low delivery pressure from a distorted filter seal or
• Camshaft sensor failure (I'm not entirely convinced by the third party diagnostic results).

So, I'd be interested in the result of your suggested application of Easy Start. Or due you have a gauge to measure the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve?

Simon

[Thunderbolt]

Originally Posted by SD1too

With all the cranking you've been doing I'm surprised they're not wet.

So where are we this morning?

We think that the engine isn't being fuelled due to either:

• Low delivery pressure from a distorted filter seal or
• Camshaft sensor failure (I'm not entirely convinced by the third party diagnostic results).

So, I'd be interested in the result of your suggested application of Easy Start. Or due you have a gauge to measure the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve?

Simon

Low fuel pressure - I have a gauge and it read 3.5bar - It is a ridiculously expensive gauge that we use at work, 3.5 bar is at the bottom of it's working range, it reads slightly lower than my tyre pressure gauge that I tried.
Diagnostics - I have tried toaf as well, that gave no DTC's.

[Thunderbolt]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Ah, that could explain it - but, I'm still worried about the clunk/click thing.

It only needs the pickup cup on the base of the tank to be submerged and the pump will prime. Given that, the rail will pressurise and the in-tank circulation system does the rest.
How to Understand Fuel Tanks (Post 4): https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=271894

Looking forward to the results.


TC

Great explanation of the tank/pumps etc

How complicated is that!!!

[Thunderbolt]

Originally Posted by vitesse

A note for your library of knowledge:

Low fuel pressure at 2 bar won't inhibit sparks based on my experience. See https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=288971 post 6

Regards

Very interesting, particularly as the thermostat is leaking too, so I will need to get access.

[Thunderbolt]

Oh, and just a note to say thanks to everyone who ahs read, commented, suggested or linked stuff.



Off to weld stuff now.