Ticking noise from under the bonnet when parked and locked.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

I think I need to aim to charge at around 10a to ensure the battery charges ...

Hi Martin,

Although the charger you have ordered is rated at 10 amps, the actual current drawn by your flat battery won't be anything near that. In my experience you might initially see 5 amps for a very short period but that will quickly reduce to about 3 amps.

However, that's academic. Follow Jon's advice to use a second charged battery to enable you to unlock the doors.

By the way, if your 260's battery is as depleted as you think it is, it probably won't respond to charging and will have to be replaced.

Simon

[edwardmk]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hi Martin,

Although the charger you have ordered is rated at 10 amps, the actual current drawn by your flat battery won't be anything near that. In my experience you might initially see 5 amps for a very short period but that will quickly reduce to about 3 amps.

However, that's academic. Follow Jon's advice to use a second charged battery to enable you to unlock the doors.

By the way, if your 260's battery is as depleted as you think it is, it probably won't respond to charging and will have to be replaced.

Simon

The item ordered delivers 0-30v and 0-10a variable, so it should be possible to deliver a decent charge through the socket to the battery. However, Jon's tip sounds quick and easy, so I'm going to try that first. I'll play with the variable supply when it finally arrives. I don't know the fuse rating in the trailer socket so I'll still put a 10a fuse in line when I try the battery trick later. I'm guessing the fuse in the trailer line would be around 20a?
I'm glad to report the 260 is OK since I've started the habit of leaving it on a trickle charger. It's the ZTT that's thrown a wobbly Simon, but I suspect you're right about me possibly needing a new battery. It did run very flat during the first lockdown, but I've had no trouble since then until last Thursday. Reflecting on last week, I have to confess to using two heated electric seats and a front electric windscreen a few times on short trips, so this issue may all be self inflicted Going to install a trickle charger connector on the ZTT too when this is all sorted.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

The item ordered delivers 0-30v and 0-10a variable ...

That sounds interesting Martin. I'd like to know more, can you post a link please?

Originally Posted by edwardmk

I'm glad to report the 260 is OK ... It's the ZTT that's thrown a wobbly Simon ...

Oh, sorry to get it wrong! It's just that your profile mentions only one vehicle, the 260. Any chance of updating it?

Simon

[edwardmk]

Originally Posted by SD1too

That sounds interesting Martin. I'd like to know more, can you post a link please?


Oh, sorry to get it wrong! It's just that your profile mentions only one vehicle, the 260. Any chance of updating it?


Simon

My omission Simon which will be corrected shortly. Thanks for the heads up

Hope this link works.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by MarkS

Why should you not use a charger ?

Because you would need the charger hanging off the back of your car for at least 24 hours to charge your battery.--My method will give instant access to the battery under the bonnet.--A much more sensible place to put the charger.

Especially if you are parked outside and it starts to rain.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by stocktake

The intelligent chargers will not charge a totally flat battery, I have got around this before by bridging to pos and neg poles with a pp3 9v battery with the charger attached, this fools the charger into thinking it is almost flat and it begins charging .
Or, if you have a 2nd charged car battery, you could try to fabricate a pos and neg lead from the 2nd battery to plug into the towing socket.

This is the way to get one of those so called smart chargers to co-operate and start charging your flat battery.-Great advice.--

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

The item ordered delivers 0-30v and 0-10a variable, so it should be possible to deliver a decent charge through the socket to the battery. However, Jon's tip sounds quick and easy, so I'm going to try that first. I'll play with the variable supply when it finally arrives. I don't know the fuse rating in the trailer socket so I'll still put a 10a fuse in line when I try the battery trick later. I'm guessing the fuse in the trailer line would be around 20a?
I'm glad to report the 260 is OK since I've started the habit of leaving it on a trickle charger. It's the ZTT that's thrown a wobbly Simon, but I suspect you're right about me possibly needing a new battery. It did run very flat during the first lockdown, but I've had no trouble since then until last Thursday. Reflecting on last week, I have to confess to using two heated electric seats and a front electric windscreen a few times on short trips, so this issue may all be self inflicted Going to install a trickle charger connector on the ZTT too when this is all sorted.

The extra fuse won't be needed. The existing one will be OK for the job.

After all this is up and running make sure by charging your battery for at least 24 hours.---

[edwardmk]

There are two options for pin 9 permanent battery live.
I’ve plumped for pin 9 on the right as this is listed as a ‘Euroconnector’
I set up the V8 battery as a supply
The voltage was 12.88 but I got no response from the fob.
Now I have the CTEK 5 charging happily .
Unfortunately I don’t know if I have chosen the correct pin or even if the socket is a fully functional socket.
I may just be charging the V8 battery and no current going to the one I want to charge.
Starting to think I may have to jack up the car and try car chassis and starter motor feed to access the battery.
Oh for an easy external battery connection lol


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[SD1too]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

There are two options for pin 9 permanent battery live.

The first diagram is labelled "front of socket" so yes, you have chosen the correct terminal.

The second diagram appears to show the front of the plug (which you don't have).

Simon

[edwardmk]

Originally Posted by SD1too

The first diagram is labelled "front of socket" so yes, you have chosen the correct terminal.



The second diagram appears to show the front of the plug (which you don't have).



Simon

Whoops. Lol. Just had a partial result however.
Put heavy duty leads on with the V8 & left running for 15 mins. Tried the fob. Nothing. Decided to remove the leads and noticed I had over 2v. So that must be a working pin 9. Put on the CTEK with the V8 battery in parallel and after about 10 mins an alarm came on. No response though when I use the key fob so I gave up charging and the alarm has now gone silent again.


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