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Old 4th June 2018, 22:13   #11
raykay
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That sort use voltage sensing rather than a switching coil. As there is only about 2 volts difference between the battery voltage when the engine is not running (about 12 volts) and when it is running (about 14 volts), the difference may not be sensitive enough for it to switch.
If there is an adjustment screw, it may need adjusting so that when the engine is switched off, it switches off - you should hear it 'click' off shortly after the engine is switched off.
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Old 4th June 2018, 22:18   #12
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There is an adjuster Ray, I have emailed the manufacturer for further information. The voltage when off is 12.3, when charging it is 14.8v
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Old 4th June 2018, 22:26   #13
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See what the manufacturer comes up with, but it sounds like it may need adjusting as it is not 'sensing' the difference between 12.3 and 14.8 volts.
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Old 4th June 2018, 22:27   #14
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Originally Posted by raykay View Post
See what the manufacturer comes up with, but it sounds like it may need adjusting as it is not 'sensing' the difference between 12.3 and 14.8 volts.
Will update once I hear from them, thanks Ray
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Old 4th June 2018, 22:27   #15
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Hi Rich,
I have just replaced one of these relays, as mine was getting warm, and leaving the output energised.
When I took it out, I opened the case, and it was interesting to say the least, one of the relays had melted the case, and the circuit board had burned around the voltage adjust potentiometer (and signs of scorching on the plastic of the case....
I put this down to the high currents switched when connecting the batteries together?
Certainly if the relay feels warm, then there is a power loss that way - but is there enough to discharge your battery overnight? That would need to be checked with an ammeter...
Certainly if this relay was disconnected from live there should be no way to drain the main battery.
Possibly a duff diode in the alternator discharging the main battery?


Chris
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Old 4th June 2018, 22:31   #16
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Hi Ray/Rich
That adjuster turns one way to move the switching point to a higher voltage, and the other way to a lower voltage.
Probably the easiest way is to let your can sit for a while, then (with the aux battery disconnected from the relay) alter the adjuster until the output is off, then start your van up and make sure the that switches with the alternator running.
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Old 4th June 2018, 22:41   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb750chris View Post
Hi Ray/Rich
That adjuster turns one way to move the switching point to a higher voltage, and the other way to a lower voltage.
Probably the easiest way is to let your can sit for a while, then (with the aux battery disconnected from the relay) alter the adjuster until the output is off, then start your van up and make sure the that switches with the alternator running.
Chris
I will try that in the morning Chris, before I start it
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Old 5th June 2018, 12:39   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb750chris View Post
Hi Ray/Rich
That adjuster turns one way to move the switching point to a higher voltage, and the other way to a lower voltage.
Probably the easiest way is to let your can sit for a while, then (with the aux battery disconnected from the relay) alter the adjuster until the output is off, then start your van up and make sure the that switches with the alternator running.
Chris
set the adjuster all the way anti clockwise and output was 0v. Started engine, still 0v, turned adjuster clockwise a bit, heard a click, BINGO! 14+V. Switched engine off, back to 0v thanks for the heads up Chris. Got email from manufacturer this morning saying same as you.
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