Major electrical failure...Help.

200BRM · 29th December 2018, 09:14

Hi Folks.
I am new to the forum but have been running an old 220k mile CDT for several years now. I bought a 2004 ZTT 1.8 turbo recently which has been off road for 5 years. The engine was in bits in the boot but is all rebuilt with new turbo now. The key fob operates the doors and tailgate OK. Interior lights and horn work but nothing else works on turning the key. No dash lights, No nothing. I have checked all main battery and earth connections and battery is good. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Cheers.

suzublu · 29th December 2018, 09:20

Check that the ecu isn't swimming in the plenum chamber, & check the key for the transponder

raykay · 29th December 2018, 10:19

Check Fusible Link 12 in the engine compartment fuse panel, that is the main feed for the ignition switch.

200BRM · 29th December 2018, 12:56

Thanks Gents.
Key transponder is in place and no sign of water in the ECU area and tubes not blocked. There is no voltage to the ignition switch but link 12 is OK. I suspect the Grey unit fixed with 2 security bolts fitted to the right of the accelerator pedal. Immobiliser I suspect but surprised if it is this as the doors all still work on the fob???

raykay · 29th December 2018, 13:05

If there is no voltage on the two Brown/Slate cables at the ignition switch, and there is at the Fusible Link end, the fault could be in the cables themselves.

200BRM · 29th December 2018, 15:40

Thanks for the point towards fuse link 12. Poor rusty connection here and now we have power. Still no spark though. Everything else including fuel pressure just no spark. Tried another camshaft pickup but no joy. Double check ECU and a dose of WD40 on the connections but nothing. As the car has been without power for years does the immobiliser need a reboot or something? Cheers.

cb750chris · 29th December 2018, 18:29

The immobiliser will not let the car crank if it does not recognise the key.
Try removing the transponder and check if the car cranks (it shouldn't, confirms car hasn't been bodged wiring wise), then replace transponder in key.
Also on the diesel, the immobiliser needs to speak to the ECU to allow the engine crank (hopefully somebody else can confirm if this is the case for the 1.8, sure it would be), again suggesting ECU is powered.

Can you confirm the fuel pump is running, and that you have pressure at the injectors.

Does this car have 2 coils? Do you have no spark on all plugs? Can you check them on anything else? I am always suspicious of 2nd hand parts in this situation - did previous owner swap them so all parts are present?

May be worth stepping back and making sure all connections on engine are made to loom (ensure something hasn't been left disconnected)

Good luck
Chris

marinabrian · 30th December 2018, 04:52

Check to see if the tachometer needle moves when the car is being cranked, if not then the next port of call is to check the wiring to the crankshaft position sensor (CKP)

It is common on the turbo models for the CKP wiring to be baked where it passes through the heat resistant sheath adjacent to the turbocharger.

If this happens, it shorts out, normally killing the ECM in the process

Check the wiring first

Brian

200BRM · 30th December 2018, 10:46

Thanks Brian.
Yep. All 3 cables fused together. I have cut and remade all 3 and reconnected to the connector. I know I should have 12 volts on one of the cables but I have it on 2 of them???. All cables have lost their colour so am not 100% they are reconnected ok but I suspect the damage may have already been done anyway. Do you offer a test/repair service for the ECU?

29th December 2018, 09:14	#1
200BRM Newbie MG-ZTT Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Dartford Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Major electrical failure...Help. Hi Folks. I am new to the forum but have been running an old 220k mile CDT for several years now. I bought a 2004 ZTT 1.8 turbo recently which has been off road for 5 years. The engine was in bits in the boot but is all rebuilt with new turbo now. The key fob operates the doors and tailgate OK. Interior lights and horn work but nothing else works on turning the key. No dash lights, No nothing. I have checked all main battery and earth connections and battery is good. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Cheers.

29th December 2018, 12:56	#4
200BRM Newbie MG-ZTT Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Dartford Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Electrical failure Thanks Gents. Key transponder is in place and no sign of water in the ECU area and tubes not blocked. There is no voltage to the ignition switch but link 12 is OK. I suspect the Grey unit fixed with 2 security bolts fitted to the right of the accelerator pedal. Immobiliser I suspect but surprised if it is this as the doors all still work on the fob???

29th December 2018, 15:40	#6
200BRM Newbie MG-ZTT Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Dartford Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Electrical failure Thanks for the point towards fuse link 12. Poor rusty connection here and now we have power. Still no spark though. Everything else including fuel pressure just no spark. Tried another camshaft pickup but no joy. Double check ECU and a dose of WD40 on the connections but nothing. As the car has been without power for years does the immobiliser need a reboot or something? Cheers.

29th December 2018, 18:29	#7
cb750chris Trader Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 849 Thanks: 201 Thanked 292 Times in 200 Posts	The immobiliser will not let the car crank if it does not recognise the key. Try removing the transponder and check if the car cranks (it shouldn't, confirms car hasn't been bodged wiring wise), then replace transponder in key. Also on the diesel, the immobiliser needs to speak to the ECU to allow the engine crank (hopefully somebody else can confirm if this is the case for the 1.8, sure it would be), again suggesting ECU is powered. Can you confirm the fuel pump is running, and that you have pressure at the injectors. Does this car have 2 coils? Do you have no spark on all plugs? Can you check them on anything else? I am always suspicious of 2nd hand parts in this situation - did previous owner swap them so all parts are present? May be worth stepping back and making sure all connections on engine are made to loom (ensure something hasn't been left disconnected) Good luck Chris __________________ Now offering T4 services in the Fareham area Replacement keys programmed / supplied / cut Diesel 135 upgrade available IPK virginisation and T4 matching available Sorry, due to a big change in home circumstances, I am unable to do any large jobs at present, but can still offer evening time diagnostics. Last edited by cb750chris; 29th December 2018 at 18:32..

30th December 2018, 10:46	#9
200BRM Newbie MG-ZTT Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Dartford Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Electrical failure Thanks Brian. Yep. All 3 cables fused together. I have cut and remade all 3 and reconnected to the connector. I know I should have 12 volts on one of the cables but I have it on 2 of them???. All cables have lost their colour so am not 100% they are reconnected ok but I suspect the damage may have already been done anyway. Do you offer a test/repair service for the ECU?

29th December 2018, 09:20	#2
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,912 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Check that the ecu isn't swimming in the plenum chamber, & check the key for the transponder

29th December 2018, 10:19	#3
raykay I really should get out more....... Now Other Manufacturer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Co. Kerry Posts: 2,786 Thanks: 16 Thanked 310 Times in 283 Posts	Check Fusible Link 12 in the engine compartment fuse panel, that is the main feed for the ignition switch.

29th December 2018, 13:05	#5
raykay I really should get out more....... Now Other Manufacturer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Co. Kerry Posts: 2,786 Thanks: 16 Thanked 310 Times in 283 Posts	If there is no voltage on the two Brown/Slate cables at the ignition switch, and there is at the Fusible Link end, the fault could be in the cables themselves.

30th December 2018, 04:52	#8
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	Check to see if the tachometer needle moves when the car is being cranked, if not then the next port of call is to check the wiring to the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) It is common on the turbo models for the CKP wiring to be baked where it passes through the heat resistant sheath adjacent to the turbocharger. If this happens, it shorts out, normally killing the ECM in the process Check the wiring first Brian