New key blade works in boot & door but not in ignition

Bolin · 8th March 2018, 13:47

As titled - I had a new key blade cut and it works in the boot lock and the door lock, but does not work in the steering/ignition lock.

It was a bare key blade bought off eBay years ago for 99p, cut at the nearest locksmith that does this type of key. I have been trying it just by holding it with a pair of pliers, it is not yet fitted to a fob shell or even the little clip.

It seems fine in the boot and door, but in the steering/ignition lock it will go all the way in but not turn. I have removed the lock barrel and greased everything in graphite grease as much as possible.

Any thoughts as to what the issue is? Poorly cut blade or worn lock? It works fine in the boot and door

Advice gratefully appreciated

Ta, Bolin

suzublu · 8th March 2018, 14:00

Colin, I had a blade cut a few years ago with the same issues, I filed the cut sides down a little to remove any burr & it's been working fine ever since

KWIL · 8th March 2018, 14:13

Colin.

As a own "key cutter", I agree, tolerances are not really that tight. If it is that stiff, it may be not deep enough in the slots.

K

Supervinnie40 · 8th March 2018, 14:37

I had a similar problem where the key wouldn't work in the ignition, but it did in the door. Turned out the chip had come loose inside. I glued the tiny chip back into place, and everything worked perfectly again.

KWIL · 8th March 2018, 14:40

SuperV,

Colin's problem is not "engine inhibiited" because of loss of chip signal, but one of mechanically not wanting to enter far enough to unlock.

cb750chris · 8th March 2018, 17:15

I have come across this symptom a few times, and have always attributed it to having not cut spot on - recutting on another blank has normally resolved (usually occurs if the milling bit is slightly worn/damaged)
My thought is that the door locks possibly are not as secure as the ignition switch - maybe not checking every position on the key?
I have also had similar when the key fits the ignition and door, but won't do the boot etc.
Chris

RoverP480 · 8th March 2018, 17:15

It may be the ignition lock is slightly worn and the new key is catching, which key did it get copied from.

Supervinnie40 · 8th March 2018, 17:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by KWIL

SuperV,

Colin's problem is not "engine inhibiited" because of loss of chip signal, but one of mechanically not wanting to enter far enough to unlock.

Oops, I though he means the steering lock wouldn't be disengaged due to the car not starting or something.

marinabrian · 8th March 2018, 21:30

Kwil is spot on, the milling hasn't been done deep enough

I've had this on a few occasions now, and after checking with a vernier, followed by scraping out the grooves with a tool fashioned from a sharpened terminal screwdriver all has been well

Brian

RoverP480 · 8th March 2018, 22:51

As a matter of interest, is it better to get a replacement key cut to code rather than copy an existing one, given it will be used in a possibly worn lock?

8th March 2018, 13:47	#1
Bolin This is my second home Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE 4dr manual Wedgewood Blue 2 04-05/06/2001 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: N.E. Hampshire Posts: 4,617 Thanks: 289 Thanked 308 Times in 243 Posts	New key blade works in boot & door but not in ignition As titled - I had a new key blade cut and it works in the boot lock and the door lock, but does not work in the steering/ignition lock. It was a bare key blade bought off eBay years ago for 99p, cut at the nearest locksmith that does this type of key. I have been trying it just by holding it with a pair of pliers, it is not yet fitted to a fob shell or even the little clip. It seems fine in the boot and door, but in the steering/ignition lock it will go all the way in but not turn. I have removed the lock barrel and greased everything in graphite grease as much as possible. Any thoughts as to what the issue is? Poorly cut blade or worn lock? It works fine in the boot and door Advice gratefully appreciated Ta, Bolin __________________ "...the new Rover 75, which is a fabulous car......I think it looks fabulous....It's like sitting in a Rolls Royce......For me, this is the star of the show.....it looks so good" - J. Clarkson, motoring journalist on the launch of the Rover 75 in 1998.

8th March 2018, 14:37	#4
Supervinnie40 I really should get out more....... Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Tilburg (Netherland) Posts: 2,615 Thanks: 572 Thanked 336 Times in 247 Posts	I had a similar problem where the key wouldn't work in the ignition, but it did in the door. Turned out the chip had come loose inside. I glued the tiny chip back into place, and everything worked perfectly again. __________________ Proud owner of the Dutch "Golden 75". A much loved Gold White Metallic Rover 75 1.8 na from 2000.

8th March 2018, 17:15	#6
cb750chris Trader Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 849 Thanks: 201 Thanked 292 Times in 200 Posts	I have come across this symptom a few times, and have always attributed it to having not cut spot on - recutting on another blank has normally resolved (usually occurs if the milling bit is slightly worn/damaged) My thought is that the door locks possibly are not as secure as the ignition switch - maybe not checking every position on the key? I have also had similar when the key fits the ignition and door, but won't do the boot etc. Chris __________________ Now offering T4 services in the Fareham area Replacement keys programmed / supplied / cut Diesel 135 upgrade available IPK virginisation and T4 matching available Sorry, due to a big change in home circumstances, I am unable to do any large jobs at present, but can still offer evening time diagnostics.

8th March 2018, 14:00	#2
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,920 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Colin, I had a blade cut a few years ago with the same issues, I filed the cut sides down a little to remove any burr & it's been working fine ever since

8th March 2018, 14:13	#3
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,954 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	Colin. As a own "key cutter", I agree, tolerances are not really that tight. If it is that stiff, it may be not deep enough in the slots. K

8th March 2018, 14:40	#5
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,954 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	SuperV, Colin's problem is not "engine inhibiited" because of loss of chip signal, but one of mechanically not wanting to enter far enough to unlock.

8th March 2018, 17:15	#7
RoverP480 Gets stuck in None at the moment Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Hereford Posts: 501 Thanks: 1 Thanked 165 Times in 146 Posts	It may be the ignition lock is slightly worn and the new key is catching, which key did it get copied from.

8th March 2018, 21:30	#9
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	Kwil is spot on, the milling hasn't been done deep enough I've had this on a few occasions now, and after checking with a vernier, followed by scraping out the grooves with a tool fashioned from a sharpened terminal screwdriver all has been well Brian

8th March 2018, 22:51	#10
RoverP480 Gets stuck in None at the moment Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Hereford Posts: 501 Thanks: 1 Thanked 165 Times in 146 Posts	As a matter of interest, is it better to get a replacement key cut to code rather than copy an existing one, given it will be used in a possibly worn lock?