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Old 9th February 2015, 21:26   #2731
jgriffo
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Changed the thermostat for the improved DMGRS one.

Cleaned the windscreen washer filter.

Put a new torpedo badge on the nsf door
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  • 1996 Rover 200 (216 SLi)
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Old 9th February 2015, 22:43   #2732
FLYING BANANA
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Swapped the "girls" over. Banana out in the sun and Redfive gets to stay in the warm.
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232750. Be patient Banana, we will soon be back together and enjoying the shows again.

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Old 9th February 2015, 22:49   #2733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrazzleTC View Post
Worth keeping an eye on the thermostat housing too. Also, worth changing the seals on the expansion cap, and making sure you're not over-filling the expansion tank, because the max mark is well down the tank.
Many thanks - level is OK now - but I was overfilling it 3 months ago

I bought an entire new cap from DMGRS as they're not expensive.
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Old 9th February 2015, 23:33   #2734
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1st job,

Removed the window switch pack, opened it, cleaned the electric mirror adjustment contact pads, re-assembled and re-fitted. Took all of about 8 minutes!. Mirrors now move smoothly in all directions without hammering at the switch

2nd job,

Removed the rear centre brake light housing and cleaned off the copious amount of (white!) "no more nails" or such sealant that had been bodged in to hold up one side where the mounting had been damaged and left an inch thick gob of it showing through the back window light area! Once properly cleaned off, which took about half an hour, it took a 20mm repair washer and 5 minutes to re-assemble and now looks new... Why do some people find the most retarded way of doing even the most mundane and obvious of tasks?

Last edited by Paulifa1; 21st February 2015 at 22:14..
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Old 10th February 2015, 05:35   #2735
Kennyeth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulifa1 View Post
1st job,

Removed the window switch pack, opened it, cleaned the electric mirror adjustment contact pads, re-assembled and re-fitted. Took all of about 8 minutes!. Mirrors now move smoothly in all directions without hammering at the switch

2nd job,

Removed the rear centre brake light housing and cleaned off the copious amount of (white!) "no more nails" or such sealant that had been bodged in to hold up one side where the mounting had been damaged and left an inch thick gob of it showing through the back window light area! Once properly cleaned off, which took about half an hour, it took a 20mm repair washer and 5 minutes to re-assemble and now looks new... Why do some people find the most retarded way of doing even the most mundane and obvious of tasks?

Tomorrows fun task will be... swapping over the rear bumper that's had paint at some point in the past and subsequently faded terribly for a nice clean used original paint bumper that turned up today
Trying to get a clear picture of what you did.....I took my light off as numerous attempts to re-glue it failed.....on yours were the metal parts that the light unit unstuck from the glass? or just the housing broken?
Ken.
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Old 10th February 2015, 09:27   #2736
Supervinnie40
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Originally Posted by MangoMan View Post
I think I found out why the Battery went flat, (in reference to earlier posts) On removing the Sub to check the boot I noticed that the thin blue wire which turns the Amp on and off had come adrift from the connection - so I think my Amp had been on for all that time. No wonder it was flat!!!

At least it didn't harm the Amp, it still fine...
Shouldn't be on. The blue wire should be the one thing that switched it on. Without it, it should just stay off.
The amp is often connected to a permanent live, if you are right your amp would turn on when you take the key out, of turn off when you start the car.
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Old 10th February 2015, 10:57   #2737
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@ Ken,

Hi Ken,

The metal bolts glued to the window glass were still intact, just the plastic around the hole in the housing itself had cracked away around the nut if you see what I mean.

If your bolt mounts have come off you'll need to get some of the glass bonding cement/primer used in the automotive glass trade to put them back with, nothing else will be successful.

If I recall correctly there are some guys on ebay selling it.

Paul
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Old 10th February 2015, 11:43   #2738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
Shouldn't be on. The blue wire should be the one thing that switched it on. Without it, it should just stay off.
The amp is often connected to a permanent live, if you are right your amp would turn on when you take the key out, of turn off when you start the car.
Ahhh. I was always under the impression that if the blue wire wasn't connected the Amp would be automatically switched to the 'On' position...

But I did check that now the wire is connected it switches correctly, which it does. Only switches on when the headunit is switched on.

Anyway, it was strange that the battery went flat... The next time I'm going to leave it standing for some time I will take the Amp Fuse out.

This one by the Battery:



Never went flat before I fitted the Sub...???

But thanks for the info there Vinnie.
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Old 10th February 2015, 12:13   #2739
Kennyeth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulifa1 View Post
@ Ken,

Hi Ken,

The metal bolts glued to the window glass were still intact, just the plastic around the hole in the housing itself had cracked away around the nut if you see what I mean.

If your bolt mounts have come off you'll need to get some of the glass bonding cement/primer used in the automotive glass trade to put them back with, nothing else will be successful.

If I recall correctly there are some guys on ebay selling it.

Paul
Ok Thanks, I did post on here last year and got quite few different types of bonding materials...it`s one of those jobs that gets forgot about until a post comes up to remind me.
Ken.
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Old 10th February 2015, 12:53   #2740
clf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MangoMan View Post
Ahhh. I was always under the impression that if the blue wire wasn't connected the Amp would be automatically switched to the 'On' position...

But I did check that now the wire is connected it switches correctly, which it does. Only switches on when the headunit is switched on.

Anyway, it was strange that the battery went flat... The next time I'm going to leave it standing for some time I will take the Amp Fuse out.

This one by the Battery:



Never went flat before I fitted the Sub...???

But thanks for the info there Vinnie.
would you listen to the stereo often with the engine off? amps can be quite power hungry and drain the battery. a scenario - you take someone to the shops, wait outside listening to your beautifully sounding system, they come out, you start, drive the 2 miles home, and next day go to start and nothing. the cos has drained most of the juice from the battery and the subsequent drive hasn't been enough to replenish the battery. happened to me on an old car. I used to listen to my stereo when I washed and polished the car. until it wouldn't start after
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