In Tank Fuel Pump (Diesel).

[jt002e2762]

Hi Everyone, Hope you are all well. With regard to the above, have just replaced it by using the Pug pump motor from a 306 in tank pump, (GSF part number T18326, online catalogue, £79, free delivery). The output for the 306 pump is the same as the 406.
It's a pity you can't just buy the pump motor, as everything else gets disgarded.
Anyway, I know the original thread has been closed, but would like to add my comments and thanks.
Thanks to Efreeti for his excellent 'how to', very clear and easy to follow. Also, thanks to Mike, and Tcut - getting the back seat cushion off!!!! and then back on!!!!!! I thought that was the hardest part of the job. The broom handle gizmo made it a lot easier.
I knew the intank pump had stopped running, because the underbonnet one had been making all sorts of noises for a while, and when the car turned over but would'nt fire up I reckoned the underbonnet pump had given up as well. A tap from a screwdriver handle got it going again, under protest.
Lifted the back seat and could hear, or rather could'nt hear the pump running. So after reading all the entries on the site regarding this problem, got the new pump and set to work. The only real difference I did from Efreet's 'how to', was that I did'nt remove item D2 from the tank. I simply removed the wiring connector B2, by releasing it after lifting the pump clear, and then cut the delivery hose by the clip B3. This allowed me to remove the pump only and leave D2 still in the tank. I found this easier than removing everything. I also used the electrical connection from the Pug pump and spliced it to the wires on the Rover pump housing, again I found that easier than crimping new spades for the pug pump motor.
I then did a dry run by connecting the main electrical connector, and the new pump ran very nicely.
I reconnected the delivery hose using a new jubilee clip B3 and connected item B2. Then put the pump back in the tank. Checked and tightened everything and went for a test drive. That was all a week ago and just to report that the car is starting first time and going well, also the underbonnet pump is running a bit quieter, though I am going to replace that as well.
As I said before, this post is just to say thanks to everyone for their input and advice on the site, about all aspects of owning these smashing cars.
If your having fuel delivery problems with regard to the in tank pump, then the Pug pump motor option is a real money saver, both in parts and labour. Once again many thanks, Regards JRT.

[JohnDotCom]

Glad all is sorted and working again for you.

[Frobs]

Great timing JRT. Have just experienced exactly the same thing. And fantastic news for getting and EVEN cheaper solution.

A couple of questions :

1. I already had a head scratch trying to remove the rear seat. Could you point me in the right direction for how to do that ?

2. How long did it take to change the pump from start to finish ?

3. How much for an underbonnet pump ? - any even cheaper options ?

[jt002e2762]

Originally Posted by Frobs

Great timing JRT. Have just experienced exactly the same thing. And fantastic news for getting and EVEN cheaper solution.

A couple of questions :

1. I already had a head scratch trying to remove the rear seat. Could you point me in the right direction for how to do that ?

2. How long did it take to change the pump from start to finish ?

3. How much for an underbonnet pump ? - any even cheaper options ?

Hi Mate, with regard to your questions.

1. look in the How to Forum : Car Interior. If you scroll through the entries you will find one by Mike and another By Tcut, both explain how to remove the rear seat cushion and Tcut's also show how to make a broom handle gizmo, which is great for removing the seat on your own, and putting it back on. Also no need to remove seat belts. The buckles, push back through the seat cutouts and the strap pull the slack through and prop the seat on the drivers headrest.

2. I really took my time, so it took me about 3 hours.

3. The best price I've found for the underbonnet pump is £94 inc Del from Roverbreakers. tel: 01606 738873.

So I reckon about £175 to do both pumps. I've read that some people have paid about £600 to have it done by a dealer or garage. If you're prepaired to have a go yourself, it's the way to go.:lol: regards, JRT.

[jt002e2762]

Originally Posted by JohnDotCom

Glad all is sorted and working again for you.

Cheers, John thanks a lot.

[Rob Bell]

Originally Posted by jt002e2762

The only real difference I did from Efreet's 'how to', was that I did'nt remove item D2 from the tank. I simply removed the wiring connector B2, by releasing it after lifting the pump clear, and then cut the delivery hose by the clip B3. This allowed me to remove the pump only and leave D2 still in the tank.

Just about to do the same thing on my car - and following the same set of instructions. Curious as to what "D2", "B2" and "B3" etc refer to? I presume a schematic in a Haynes Manual?

[jt002e2762]

Originally Posted by Rob Bell

Just about to do the same thing on my car - and following the same set of instructions. Curious as to what "D2", "B2" and "B3" etc refer to? I presume a schematic in a Haynes Manual?

Hi, These refer to items listed on photos in Efreeti's 'how to'.

Look in the How to Forum. Engine and Technical. Page 3. (about 12 items down).

Cheers, JRT.

[Rob Bell]

Originally Posted by jt002e2762

Hi, These refer to items listed on photos in Efreeti's 'how to'.

Look in the How to Forum. Engine and Technical. Page 3. (about 12 items down).

Cheers, JRT.

Thanks Now sorted. Unfortunately, the images in Efreeti's original How-to are now defunct, but Simon has very kindly forwarded me the original in PDF format, so should be all sorted

Cheers

[t_i_m]

Can the how to be updated or could I please have a copy of the PDF?

Thanks

Tim

[Barnowlnoddy]

Originally Posted by t_i_m

Can the how to be updated or could I please have a copy of the PDF?

Thanks

Tim

Copied the original How To. Does the "facelift model" CDTi Tourer use the same pump?
Peter