what type of bolt is appropiate

[macafee2]

one of the 3 studs that hold the exhaust to the manifold ( think this is where the joint is) has been snapped (not by me) and looks to be too short to reuse. I think I will need to drill it and use a nut and bolt. Due to the heat and cold cycling, what type of bolt is required?

macafee2

[T-Cut]

I swapped my three manifold to turbo bolts (plus a stud on a 1.8turbo), for stainless steel ones. I did the same for the turbo to downpipe flange as well as the five M10 manifold studs/nuts. Stainless steel bolts/nuts retain their condition better than standard stuff.



TC

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I swapped my three manifold to turbo bolts (plus a stud on a 1.8turbo), for stainless steel ones. I did the same for the turbo to downpipe flange as well as the five M10 manifold studs/nuts. Stainless steel bolts/nuts retain their condition better than standard stuff.



TC

TC, how did you get the 3 bolts out? I thought they were part of the Triangle.
On this page, one of the studs/bolts that attach item 1 to 2 and held in place by item 4 is the bolt/stud that has snapped.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001957

macafee2

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by macafee2

TC, how did you get the 3 bolts out? I thought they were part of the Triangle.

They're studs (threaded rods sticking out of the flange), so they have to be unscrewed. You can do this be screwing on and tightening/locking together, two nuts. You then use a spanner on the innermost nut so the stud is turned/unscrewed. You then replace the stud with a stainless steel version using the same technique in reverse. Some stainless studs come with an Allen key socket to make refitting easier. All this stainless stuff is available on eBay. Ensure to get the appropriate thread. I think they're M10 but best measure the stud diameter and length to be sure.


M10 Studs: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...nless&_sacat=0


TC

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

They're studs (threaded rods sticking out of the flange), so they have to be unscrewed. You can do this be screwing on and tightening/locking together, two nuts. You then use a spanner on the innermost nut so the stud is turned/unscrewed. You then replace the stud with a stainless steel version using the same technique in reverse. Some stainless studs come with an Allen key socket to make refitting easier. All this stainless stuff is available on eBay. Ensure to get the appropriate thread. I think they're M10 but best measure the stud diameter and length to be sure.


M10 Studs: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...nless&_sacat=0


TC

thanks TC, that's a trick my dad taught me, omg, 40 or more years ago.

I'll take a look tomorrow. At the moment I cannot get the original nut back on the stud.

What stops the stud coming undone when the exhaust is removed and the nut undone?

I had a motorbike and when the nut was undone the stud in fact undid and came out, the nut stayed seized on the stud.


macafee2

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by macafee2

thanks TC, that's a trick my dad taught me, omg, 40 or more years ago.

I'll take a look tomorrow. At the moment I cannot get the original nut back on the stud.

What stops the stud coming undone when the exhaust is removed and the nut undone?

I had a motorbike and when the nut was undone the stud in fact undid and came out, the nut stayed seized on the stud.


macafee2

After a while in use the heat makes the stud seize into the thread.

If you don't want to have the possible problem having more snap off as you try to undo them, leave them in but use BRASS nuts, They don't seize on.--

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by macafee2

What stops the stud coming undone when the exhaust is removed and the nut undone?

Different tightening torques. Corrosion apart, the stud will stay put because it's tightened into the flange to a significantly higher torque than the nut requires. So, slackening the nut afterwards doesn't slacken the stud. In some situations a high strength thread locking fluid might be used. When a stud slackens with the nut it's due to corrosion 'welding' the nut on.



TC