My car is trying to kill me! - Page 2

Mike Noc · 25th January 2018, 11:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldster

Could it be the Throttle Position Sensor/s playing up. .... Any Diagnostic fault codes?

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Mike. On the diesel there's a PEDAL position sensor isn't there ?

If there is some sort of problem there the engine can go on to tickover I believe.

Yes you are right Colvert and apologies to Oldster, as Rover themselves call it a throttle position sensor too.

I can only assume that whoever named it at Rover was a petrolhead and didn't know anything about our diesels because the fact is they don't have throttles.

If you look at the technical description in RAVE the author also knows this because he has put inverted commas around the word 'throttle'.

Quick check to see if it is related to the TPS is to check the idle speed - in the event of the TPS failure the engine will rev at a steady 1250 rpm to enable you to limp home.

.

oldster · 25th January 2018, 21:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Yes you are right Colvert and apologies to Oldster, as Rover themselves call it a throttle position sensor too.

I can only assume that whoever named it at Rover was a petrolhead and didn't know anything about our diesels because the fact is they don't have throttles.

If you look at the technical description in RAVE the author also knows this because he has put inverted commas around the word 'throttle'.

Quick check to see if it is related to the TPS is to check the idle speed - in the event of the TPS failure the engine will rev at a steady 1250 rpm to enable you to limp home.

.

Yes, my mistake in terminology, sorry Mike, I was referring to the sensor that reads the 'accelerator ' pedal position.

Sent from my AT10PE-A using Tapatalk

Mike Noc · 25th January 2018, 21:57

Not at all mate - you are quite correct in your use of Rover terminology.

Comfortably Numb · 25th January 2018, 22:59

Colvert, it did cross my mind that it might be fly-by-wire pedal-related. It seems like it starts a journey in 'jerk' mode, and may gradually, or suddenly improve, or start in 'smooth mode', in which case it continues to run smoothly, with very occasionally a barely perceptible jerk. I will have to disconnect the MAF sensor, and/or the LP fuel pressure regulator for several journeys to find out if they are responsible. It drove to work and back perfectly today - no jerks. Doubtless tomorrow, it will be a pig!

Comfortably Numb · 25th January 2018, 23:13

PS It ALWAYSidles at a steady 850rpm. Starts perfectly with no throttle after the heater light has gone off.

Comfortably Numb · 28th January 2018, 17:01

So this weekend, after clearing my windscreen washers, I disconnected the MAF sensor, and disconnected and checked the fit and cleanliness of the plugs on the LP sensor on the filter head, and the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the ip. Didn't check any voltages or resistances. Discovered I have a Tiger tuning box strapped to the n/s wing in front of the fuse box, and looks tidily connected to other sensor(s), and dirty, like it has been there a long while.Took it for a short drive with MAF sensor disconnected - it behaved itself, but drove with its usual 114bhp less than sprightly performance. QUESTION. Is it OK to drive it the 65 miles to work, and back with the MAF sensor disconnected? More than half the mileage will be motorway and dual carriageway. If it behaves for the whole day, I will reconnect the MAF sensor and repeat on Tuesday. If it still behaves, I will leave it connected, and hope that playing with all the connectors has magically cured the problem. But I will book a T40 visit to MarinaBrian in the near future, to see if he can get any more out of it, or whether I am expecting too much. It feels no quicker than my old Xantia 1.9TD (90bhp) or 405 TD estate which had done 200,000 miles.

sewerman · 28th January 2018, 18:42

Yes it's OK to drive without the MAF connected.

The 116 is gut less when you need power, a trip to Brian and a 160 upgrade will transform the journey home

Arctic · 29th January 2018, 01:01

Comfortably Numb

Quote:

Discovered I have a Tiger tuning box strapped to the n/s wing in front of the fuse box, and looks tidily connected to other sensor(s), and dirty, like it has been there a long while.Took it for a short drive with MAF sensor disconnected - it behaved itself, but drove with its usual 114bhp less than sprightly performance. QUESTION. Is it OK to drive it the 65 miles to work,

I should imagine the tiger in your tank ( well less of really) is down to the that tuning box, get rid of it and as above have the 160 upgrade, you will not regret it that's for sure, Brian will soon have you sorted out.

Drive the car with MAF unplugged till then you will be ok Arctic.

Comfortably Numb · 29th January 2018, 21:44

...And the winners are... olliewarwick (back on my first post on Dec. 29th) and Arctic, both of whose first suggestion - to unplug the MAF sensor - did the trick.
And that is not to demean the other suggestions, many of which seemed more likely to me, - ie fuel supply related, - for the particular symptoms exhibited.
I drove the 65 miles to work and most of the way home today with the MAF sensor disconnected - no bad behaviour, despite giving it several opportunites for it to reset into jerky mode by stopping the engine for fuel, errands etc, on th way home. Finally, having pulled off the main road for the last 4 miles of country lane to home, |I reconnected the MAF sensor - and it immediately started playing kangaroos again, all the way home. Cup of tea and butty later, short trip around the block with MAF still connected - played up badly again. Back home, disconnected MAF, back out for a test run - perfect again. Pretty conclusive, I reckon. Thanks to all for your various suggestions, and apologies for not acting sooner. I thought a solid state item like that would either work or not, it looks like new, - rather than be random and intermittent like that. So for MarinaBrian's remap, - do I need to fit a new one? And does anyone make a cheaper, more reliable version than Bosch OEM?

sewerman · 30th January 2018, 06:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Comfortably Numb

...And the winners are... olliewarwick (back on my first post on Dec. 29th) and Arctic, both of whose first suggestion - to unplug the MAF sensor - did the trick.
And that is not to demean the other suggestions, many of which seemed more likely to me, - ie fuel supply related, - for the particular symptoms exhibited.
I drove the 65 miles to work and most of the way home today with the MAF sensor disconnected - no bad behaviour, despite giving it several opportunites for it to reset into jerky mode by stopping the engine for fuel, errands etc, on th way home. Finally, having pulled off the main road for the last 4 miles of country lane to home, |I reconnected the MAF sensor - and it immediately started playing kangaroos again, all the way home. Cup of tea and butty later, short trip around the block with MAF still connected - played up badly again. Back home, disconnected MAF, back out for a test run - perfect again. Pretty conclusive, I reckon. Thanks to all for your various suggestions, and apologies for not acting sooner. I thought a solid state item like that would either work or not, it looks like new, - rather than be random and intermittent like that. So for MarinaBrian's remap, - do I need to fit a new one? And does anyone make a cheaper, more reliable version than Bosch OEM?

Glad it sorted as for the MAF question no genuine bosh all the way .... unless you go for the MAF less remap which I've heard about which is cheaper than a map & maf m told

25th January 2018, 21:57	#13
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,557 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Not at all mate - you are quite correct in your use of Rover terminology.

25th January 2018, 22:59	#14
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	Colvert, it did cross my mind that it might be fly-by-wire pedal-related. It seems like it starts a journey in 'jerk' mode, and may gradually, or suddenly improve, or start in 'smooth mode', in which case it continues to run smoothly, with very occasionally a barely perceptible jerk. I will have to disconnect the MAF sensor, and/or the LP fuel pressure regulator for several journeys to find out if they are responsible. It drove to work and back perfectly today - no jerks. Doubtless tomorrow, it will be a pig!

25th January 2018, 23:13	#15
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	PS It ALWAYSidles at a steady 850rpm. Starts perfectly with no throttle after the heater light has gone off.

28th January 2018, 17:01	#16
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	So this weekend, after clearing my windscreen washers, I disconnected the MAF sensor, and disconnected and checked the fit and cleanliness of the plugs on the LP sensor on the filter head, and the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the ip. Didn't check any voltages or resistances. Discovered I have a Tiger tuning box strapped to the n/s wing in front of the fuse box, and looks tidily connected to other sensor(s), and dirty, like it has been there a long while.Took it for a short drive with MAF sensor disconnected - it behaved itself, but drove with its usual 114bhp less than sprightly performance. QUESTION. Is it OK to drive it the 65 miles to work, and back with the MAF sensor disconnected? More than half the mileage will be motorway and dual carriageway. If it behaves for the whole day, I will reconnect the MAF sensor and repeat on Tuesday. If it still behaves, I will leave it connected, and hope that playing with all the connectors has magically cured the problem. But I will book a T40 visit to MarinaBrian in the near future, to see if he can get any more out of it, or whether I am expecting too much. It feels no quicker than my old Xantia 1.9TD (90bhp) or 405 TD estate which had done 200,000 miles.

28th January 2018, 18:42	#17
sewerman Gets stuck in MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 633 Thanks: 166 Thanked 264 Times in 154 Posts	Yes it's OK to drive without the MAF connected. The 116 is gut less when you need power, a trip to Brian and a 160 upgrade will transform the journey home

29th January 2018, 21:44	#19
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	...And the winners are... olliewarwick (back on my first post on Dec. 29th) and Arctic, both of whose first suggestion - to unplug the MAF sensor - did the trick. And that is not to demean the other suggestions, many of which seemed more likely to me, - ie fuel supply related, - for the particular symptoms exhibited. I drove the 65 miles to work and most of the way home today with the MAF sensor disconnected - no bad behaviour, despite giving it several opportunites for it to reset into jerky mode by stopping the engine for fuel, errands etc, on th way home. Finally, having pulled off the main road for the last 4 miles of country lane to home, \|I reconnected the MAF sensor - and it immediately started playing kangaroos again, all the way home. Cup of tea and butty later, short trip around the block with MAF still connected - played up badly again. Back home, disconnected MAF, back out for a test run - perfect again. Pretty conclusive, I reckon. Thanks to all for your various suggestions, and apologies for not acting sooner. I thought a solid state item like that would either work or not, it looks like new, - rather than be random and intermittent like that. So for MarinaBrian's remap, - do I need to fit a new one? And does anyone make a cheaper, more reliable version than Bosch OEM?