Are new coil springs noisy when settling in - Page 3

Ed3 · 4th July 2022, 21:34

I just did as you said big exhaust clamp to clamp for metal bar and danced on it and out the ball joint came. As of tonight the strut and driveshafts are off the car and lying on the floor ready for attention. The inner cv is like bicycle pump with air trapped in it. So a greasy day tomorrow. Rimmers and Xpart said they don't have a part number for the circlip. (It would be £160 for a new shaft) Thanks again

Do I need to fix the outer cv as well? Or just the inner cv?

xsport · 5th July 2022, 11:27

have a look under the bellows to see if the circlips have been dislodged.thats all your looking for. if they are still ok then your good to go. change the lower arm while your in there if you have a decent spare ,your old one has had a rough time i would imagine. the subframe taper are a pig sometimes to remove and will need a good heavy lump hammer to shift.hard work uphill !! you could get some wedges in there to help . some folks have used a bearing separator with a fine edge to separate , but sometimes they just come out,its a lottery. persistance is the key. good luck.

Ed3 · 5th July 2022, 12:03

Thanks. Just peeled back the rubber on the inner cv and simply letting the air out meant the inner cv went straight back together as it should. Much more compact/shorter. Taking the inner cv out of the boot a few times and the circlip seems fine it was just pumped up with air so the joint was pressured apart. Without taking the boot off the outer cv it seems fine. Unless this thinking is flawed I'll put the driveshaft back on the car.

I saw a lower suspension arm for £41.74p delivered (GSF Ebay) so have here ready as the one on the car is old, but I need to use the car this week and that middle stud is totally stuck. I have been trying for weeks if not months that the car has been on axle stands. I'll need to get a garage to break the stud free.

xsport · 5th July 2022, 12:20

yes i know they are a pain to release. it will go eventually if you stick at it. i know your temped to leave it for now but you will only put the job off , and have to revisit again. if you remove the rubber around the joint at the subframe , you can get some wedges or a fork in there under stress and try shocking it out from below. up to you . the problem is you cannot get a good swing at it being too near the floor as you are probably aware. persistence will pay off. there is another method using a ball hammer under the pivoting arm , in a post on here. either that or get yourself round to a post lift and ask them to crack the pin free , after your back up running.get some penetrating oil on for a few days first around the joint/subframe top.

Ed3 · 5th July 2022, 12:25

I have hammered the fork like separator fully in between the subframe and arm and doesn't do anything.

I was wanting to do it now to save around £80/£90 in labour charges if a garage does it.

Popcorn · 5th July 2022, 13:51

Been following this thread and xsport has been giving you top notch help and info, I will let you know how i managed to remove the centre ball joint and then you can try or not.car on stands undo the ball joint nut but leave it flush with the end of the thread put the Jack under the nut and Jack the car until all its weight is on the nut making sure that your stands are still just contacting the car, get a lump hammer and then hit the subframe adjacent to the ball joint, two or three good thwacks should do it with the weight of the car and the shock of the impact on the tapered pin hope you manage to get it done.

Ed3 · 7th July 2022, 19:15

Back today from my 100+ miles of keeping a commitment to take people to the airport. So I didn't have time to try changing the front suspension arm.

When driving I took a bag of relevant spanners in the boot particularly the 18mm for the rear bush for the front suspension arm. Which I used when I got back home. And if I think I could end up lying on the floor, but want to do discreet I take a part of a roll of bin bags as a mat. But no need for on the road repair this time.

Looks like the original problem (as well as a snapped coil spring which led to finding a leaking low pressure return power steering pipe) was the support bearing was loose (and deteriorating) on the o/s driveshaft and then as xsport said on the replacement (s/h breakers) driveshaft, - the inner cv had come apart inside the rubber boot. Thanks for all the helpful comments

4th July 2022, 21:34	#21
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	I just did as you said big exhaust clamp to clamp for metal bar and danced on it and out the ball joint came. As of tonight the strut and driveshafts are off the car and lying on the floor ready for attention. The inner cv is like bicycle pump with air trapped in it. So a greasy day tomorrow. Rimmers and Xpart said they don't have a part number for the circlip. (It would be £160 for a new shaft) Thanks again Do I need to fix the outer cv as well? Or just the inner cv? Last edited by Ed3; 5th July 2022 at 05:13..

5th July 2022, 12:03	#23
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	Thanks. Just peeled back the rubber on the inner cv and simply letting the air out meant the inner cv went straight back together as it should. Much more compact/shorter. Taking the inner cv out of the boot a few times and the circlip seems fine it was just pumped up with air so the joint was pressured apart. Without taking the boot off the outer cv it seems fine. Unless this thinking is flawed I'll put the driveshaft back on the car. I saw a lower suspension arm for £41.74p delivered (GSF Ebay) so have here ready as the one on the car is old, but I need to use the car this week and that middle stud is totally stuck. I have been trying for weeks if not months that the car has been on axle stands. I'll need to get a garage to break the stud free. Last edited by Ed3; 5th July 2022 at 12:06..

5th July 2022, 13:51	#26
Popcorn Loves to post 55 cdti tourer slush box executive grill Join Date: Feb 2022 Location: Sheffield Posts: 380 Thanks: 40 Thanked 85 Times in 72 Posts	Been following this thread and xsport has been giving you top notch help and info, I will let you know how i managed to remove the centre ball joint and then you can try or not.car on stands undo the ball joint nut but leave it flush with the end of the thread put the Jack under the nut and Jack the car until all its weight is on the nut making sure that your stands are still just contacting the car, get a lump hammer and then hit the subframe adjacent to the ball joint, two or three good thwacks should do it with the weight of the car and the shock of the impact on the tapered pin hope you manage to get it done. Last edited by Popcorn; 5th July 2022 at 13:54..

5th July 2022, 11:27	#22
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	have a look under the bellows to see if the circlips have been dislodged.thats all your looking for. if they are still ok then your good to go. change the lower arm while your in there if you have a decent spare ,your old one has had a rough time i would imagine. the subframe taper are a pig sometimes to remove and will need a good heavy lump hammer to shift.hard work uphill !! you could get some wedges in there to help . some folks have used a bearing separator with a fine edge to separate , but sometimes they just come out,its a lottery. persistance is the key. good luck.

5th July 2022, 12:20	#24
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	yes i know they are a pain to release. it will go eventually if you stick at it. i know your temped to leave it for now but you will only put the job off , and have to revisit again. if you remove the rubber around the joint at the subframe , you can get some wedges or a fork in there under stress and try shocking it out from below. up to you . the problem is you cannot get a good swing at it being too near the floor as you are probably aware. persistence will pay off. there is another method using a ball hammer under the pivoting arm , in a post on here. either that or get yourself round to a post lift and ask them to crack the pin free , after your back up running.get some penetrating oil on for a few days first around the joint/subframe top.

5th July 2022, 12:25	#25
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	I have hammered the fork like separator fully in between the subframe and arm and doesn't do anything. I was wanting to do it now to save around £80/£90 in labour charges if a garage does it.

7th July 2022, 19:15	#27
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 305 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	Back today from my 100+ miles of keeping a commitment to take people to the airport. So I didn't have time to try changing the front suspension arm. When driving I took a bag of relevant spanners in the boot particularly the 18mm for the rear bush for the front suspension arm. Which I used when I got back home. And if I think I could end up lying on the floor, but want to do discreet I take a part of a roll of bin bags as a mat. But no need for on the road repair this time. Looks like the original problem (as well as a snapped coil spring which led to finding a leaking low pressure return power steering pipe) was the support bearing was loose (and deteriorating) on the o/s driveshaft and then as xsport said on the replacement (s/h breakers) driveshaft, - the inner cv had come apart inside the rubber boot. Thanks for all the helpful comments