1.8 turbo ZT

wizzo337 · 1st May 2020, 21:07

I've had a search about on here and am unable to find a definitive yes or no answer.
I need to rebuild the bottom end of my 1.8t and need to know if it is at all possible to remove the engine and leave the gearbox still fitted to the car.
Thanks.
Bill.

marinabrian · 1st May 2020, 21:36

In addition to the normal stuff such as the exhaust, manifolds, wiring pipework etc, you need to do the following........

Remove the engine mounting from the front of the block,by unbolting the four bolt that secure it you will need to remove the crank pulley, and the lower timing gear, along with the timing belt camwheels and the plastic upper rear covers, then undo the bellhousing bolts.

Support the gearbox, and you can now slide the engine away from the box, and lift it out.

I've done it before, and for the exact same reason as you are now, it may sound fiddly, but you negate the need to split the clutch, driveshafts, gear oil etc etc etc.

Brian

trikey · 1st May 2020, 23:48

Must be just me that likes to remove the engine and box as one lump

wizzo337 · 2nd May 2020, 00:21

I would love to be able to take the engine and gearbox out as a unit but need to retain the ability to move the car about.
The car suffered a blown gasket late last year before I took ownership of it. I think it must have been run with the mayo in the system as after I replaced the head, it now suffers from a flickering oil light at idle. Rather than run it like this, I'm going to go for a bottom end rebuild as well. I may even fit a MLS gasket this time as I know the liners are all protruding 3 to 5 thou above the block. It's a lovely car only let down by the oil light flickering issue. I do like the k-series 1.8 as they are so simple to work on. I've just replaced the head on my ZS because of an oil leak I've had since I bought it three years ago, hairline crack just above the alternator bracket. Now runs perfectly with no leaks and a rock steady idle. So I'm a great fan of this engine, great design and reliable as long as you use the right parts. Thanks Marinabrian and MgJohn for the valuable info. I'm now on lockdown till the end of July, deemed vulnerable by the NHS, so now have a project to keep me sane.
I'll let you know how it all goes.

rrobson · 2nd May 2020, 06:55

Why would you lose the ability to move the car about? Just reconnect anything you've disconnected? Your only talking about a couple of bottom ball joints and track rod ends to bolt back up, they don't even need to be tight!

trikey · 2nd May 2020, 08:03

You don’t need to undo the track rod ends, just pop the bottom ball joints back in, you don’t even have to bolt them on as the weight of the car will ensure they don’t fall out.

COLVERT · 17th July 2020, 19:33

I'm at a loss to understand what's happening to the forum.

In this thread we have two MAJOR contributors with masses of information between them just quietly disappearing from the club.

This is a major body blow to all who rely on their extensive knowledge.

Rather like Covid19 to the Gb economy.--

1st May 2020, 21:07	#1
wizzo337 Loves to post mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Ely Posts: 288 Thanks: 55 Thanked 87 Times in 52 Posts	1.8 turbo ZT I've had a search about on here and am unable to find a definitive yes or no answer. I need to rebuild the bottom end of my 1.8t and need to know if it is at all possible to remove the engine and leave the gearbox still fitted to the car. Thanks. Bill.

1st May 2020, 23:48	#3
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,764 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Must be just me that likes to remove the engine and box as one lump __________________ Lest we forget..

2nd May 2020, 00:21	#4
wizzo337 Loves to post mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Ely Posts: 288 Thanks: 55 Thanked 87 Times in 52 Posts	Engine Removal I would love to be able to take the engine and gearbox out as a unit but need to retain the ability to move the car about. The car suffered a blown gasket late last year before I took ownership of it. I think it must have been run with the mayo in the system as after I replaced the head, it now suffers from a flickering oil light at idle. Rather than run it like this, I'm going to go for a bottom end rebuild as well. I may even fit a MLS gasket this time as I know the liners are all protruding 3 to 5 thou above the block. It's a lovely car only let down by the oil light flickering issue. I do like the k-series 1.8 as they are so simple to work on. I've just replaced the head on my ZS because of an oil leak I've had since I bought it three years ago, hairline crack just above the alternator bracket. Now runs perfectly with no leaks and a rock steady idle. So I'm a great fan of this engine, great design and reliable as long as you use the right parts. Thanks Marinabrian and MgJohn for the valuable info. I'm now on lockdown till the end of July, deemed vulnerable by the NHS, so now have a project to keep me sane. I'll let you know how it all goes.

2nd May 2020, 06:55	#5
rrobson I really should get out more....... 75 tourer cdti, MG ZS 180, nissan terrano & 1.8t rover 25 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pontefract Posts: 2,643 Thanks: 17 Thanked 295 Times in 218 Posts	Why would you lose the ability to move the car about? Just reconnect anything you've disconnected? Your only talking about a couple of bottom ball joints and track rod ends to bolt back up, they don't even need to be tight! __________________ How to view a car - everything you need to help you inspect a used car VIS motor tester avalible to local members Injector removal tool and auto gearbox pressure tester now available

2nd May 2020, 08:03	#6
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,764 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	You don’t need to undo the track rod ends, just pop the bottom ball joints back in, you don’t even have to bolt them on as the weight of the car will ensure they don’t fall out. __________________ Lest we forget..

1st May 2020, 21:36	#2
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	In addition to the normal stuff such as the exhaust, manifolds, wiring pipework etc, you need to do the following........ Remove the engine mounting from the front of the block,by unbolting the four bolt that secure it you will need to remove the crank pulley, and the lower timing gear, along with the timing belt camwheels and the plastic upper rear covers, then undo the bellhousing bolts. Support the gearbox, and you can now slide the engine away from the box, and lift it out. I've done it before, and for the exact same reason as you are now, it may sound fiddly, but you negate the need to split the clutch, driveshafts, gear oil etc etc etc. Brian

17th July 2020, 19:33	#7
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	I'm at a loss to understand what's happening to the forum. In this thread we have two MAJOR contributors with masses of information between them just quietly disappearing from the club. This is a major body blow to all who rely on their extensive knowledge. Rather like Covid19 to the Gb economy.--