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Old 10th August 2021, 10:14   #11
dave lincs
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Originally Posted by handyjackdaniels View Post
Thanks, they were sourced from Mat at DMGRS and have a thread on the edge so presume that gives a better grip.
Yes they do grip well but at least they won't drop out like used ones do

A few weeks ago I went to a members car that had just recently had a belt change as he said the oil light had come on so he stopped it on arrival at the car the camshaft cap had fallen out as it had been reused and the car dumped all of its oil fitted new cap for him filled with oil all ok but very luck escape
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Old 10th August 2021, 12:22   #12
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A bit late now I guess but I still don’t understand the necessity of the timing tools. I’ve changed a few v6 belts now (if you think access is tricky on a 75 try changing one on a zs!) and I haven’t used or needed the tools which means none of the caps needed removing.
Mark the old belt with reference to the cam pulleys and the rear covers, and mark the crank pulley referencing the belt and block. Transfer marks from old belt to new belt, then fit new belt aligning all the reference marks. Engine was timed at factory and a new belt will maintain the original timing provided it has the same number of teeth as the removed belt and nothing has moved. Makes light work of a simple job complicated by unnecessary tools.
If you loose the timing because the cam pulleys have been loosened then yes the timing tools will be required.
I haven't touched the caps yet, was changing a few other parts( leaky thermostat etc).
I marked the cam pulleys and rear covers before the belt came off for reference, but didnt mark the belt?
The cam sprocket bolts have not been loosened yet either
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Old 10th August 2021, 13:45   #13
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Originally Posted by handyjackdaniels View Post
This is the procedure i downloaded from beinet 1 thread, there is a note on page 1.
Thanks Steve, I see the reference now. I've dug out my notes and I removed the camshaft sprockets because I wanted to see how the "floating" mechanism worked (it's invisible from the front) but otherwise there's no reason to undo the sprocket bolts to set the belt tension.

I then refitted the sprockets with the bolts hand tight, laced the belt with locking tools in place and set the tensioner pulley according to INA's instructions. Finally tighten the sprocket bolts to the specified torque before removing the locking tools. But there really is no advantage in loosening the sprocket bolts as the toothed wheel will move about 15˚ anyway and loosening them won't increase this.

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 17th August 2021 at 09:42.. Reason: Clarification
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Old 10th August 2021, 13:50   #14
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Thanks Steve, I see the reference now. I've dug out my notes and I removed the camshaft sprockets because I wanted to see how the "floating" mechanism worked (it's invisible from the front) but otherwise there's no reason to undo the sprocket bolts.

I then refitted the sprockets with the bolts hand tight, laced the belt and set the tensioner pulley according to INA's instructions. Refit the locking tools before finally tightening the sprocket bolts to the specified torque. But there really is no advantage in loosening the sprocket bolts as the toothed wheel will move about 15˚ anyway and loosening them won't increase this.

Simon
Thanks for that Simon, so no real need to loosen the bolts, i like that.
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Old 10th August 2021, 13:54   #15
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Originally Posted by handyjackdaniels View Post
I haven't touched the caps yet, was changing a few other parts( leaky thermostat etc).
I marked the cam pulleys and rear covers before the belt came off for reference, but didnt mark the belt?
The cam sprocket bolts have not been loosened yet either
The idea behind marking the belts is if it all goes pear shaped you can always put the old belt back on and start again. Also if everything is marked you absolutely can’t get it wrong. Because youve already taken the belt off you’ve missed the opportunity as it were, unless you can guarantee you can put it back on in the same place but in that case you might as well put the new one on?? But if you’ve got references between the pulleys and the block, then between the pulleys and the belt at all three positions then transfer markings across it’s very difficult to get it wrong

The tools are there to set the cam positions relative to the crank. If it’s not moved since the engine was built (which I appreciate isn’t an impossibility but highly unlikely) then it will still be timed. If anything had slipped you’d know about it by the way the engine is running and then of course you’d need the timing tools.
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Old 10th August 2021, 16:23   #16
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I guess I might need to get the timing tools out for this one then..

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Old 10th August 2021, 16:41   #17
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If you do have the tools and you do slacken the pulleys , then when you fit and tension the belt the pulleys can move to fit the belt teeth perfectly and you get a very uniform tension on the belt with the camshafts staying exactly where they were
One of the bits of the job I find satisfying , but then folk are always telling me to get a life .....
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Old 11th August 2021, 06:10   #18
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Thanks for the replies everybody, have got to get my finger out and get the job done now.
Have been self isolating after being in close contact with a positive testing person, starting to feel a bit rough myself(symptoms).

Have got a replacement aux belt coming sometime today so need to be ready for it, i.e. belt on/ front plate on/alternator/pas pump.

Take camshaft end caps off for locking tools to fit, hope the marks i made on pulleys and rear covers line up and rear pulleys line up again after fitting tools and route belt/ release tensioner, front plate then ancillaries ready for aux belt.

Need to get another hours sleep first heads banging
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Old 11th August 2021, 07:00   #19
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... hope the marks i made on pulleys and rear covers line up and rear pulleys line up again after fitting tools ...
Hi Steve,

Just so that you're not taken by surprise, with the front locking tools fitted you'll more than likely find that the notches on the rear sprockets don't quite line up. Many people have found this (including myself). It appears to be a quirk of the engine design which has never been satisfactorily explained. Just keep calm and carry on!

After you've fitted and tensioned the front belt you will need to remove the flywheel/drive plate locking pin and turn the engine ever so slightly so that the rear sprocket notches do align in order to fit the removal tool.

I wouldn't return to this job until you're feeling 100 per cent though Steve. Wishing you well.

Simon
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Old 17th August 2021, 10:12   #20
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Just to update this thread, Steve has let me know that he has successfully fitted his new front timing belt.

Simon
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