75 Club 2.0 Diesel Tourer, I just bought, any advice - Page 2

Tourist · 2nd February 2017, 07:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saxyem

4th issue. central locking does not work on all doors on fob

Are you sure that that is a fault? I thought the same thing when I bought my car and only the driver's door opened on the fob. Turns out that it's a feature - do all your doors open on a second press of the unlock button?

Hopefully so and your central locking is working as expected!

Snagger · 2nd February 2017, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saxyem

Hi all, Thanks for the replies it is appreciated, I shall make these checks when it is not bucketing down with rain.

2nd issue. indicator lights not working on dash
3rd issue. electric mirrors not working.
4th issue. central locking does not work on all doors on fob and only one key supplied

See my solution to these items in reply to your post in technical help section.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=261207

Snagger.

tourer · 2nd February 2017, 13:12

Hi.
You mentioned you bought from a dealer.
Could he fix the few issues you have or did the car come with no warranty whatsoever?

pvmw · 2nd February 2017, 13:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl52krz

Check master cylinder fluid. This is up under the bulkhead, back of the steering wheel, not the one in the plenum, that only feeds the brakes. Awkward to get to but do a bul.

A trick I discovered when suddenly I lost my clutch cluid and discovered to my disgust where they'd hidden the master cylinder, making refilling it and bleeding the system virtually impossible.

It is almost completely inaccessible, so my solution was to loosen the reservoir cap (which is possible by prodding it with a screwdriver) and then refill the system by using an eezibleed (normally used to bleed brakes) to inject fluid back via the bleed screw to be found in the nearside of the engine bay. Put some rags/newspaper in the footwell to catch the excess fluid, and then fill until someone watching tells you to stop as there is fluid appearing.

Saxyem · 3rd February 2017, 22:48

Thanks again,

Today after I had driven half a mile the clutch pedal dropped to the floor and stuck, I pulled over and depressed it a couple of times and it came back up fine, yesterday I was in town and it was just very hard to get into gear, lots of crunching and stickiness. I don;t have the time to check the actual clutch so am going to have to let me usual garage have a look to see what is amiss.

The dealer showed me the receipt for the new clutch though there is rattling when i depress it, I am wondering if he really did change the slave on the thrust bearing like he said he had.

RobSun · 3rd February 2017, 23:38

Don't want to be the one to give you bad news but it will be the master and or slave cylinder that has failed. It is common knowledge that the quality of these parts on these cars is sadly variable and are noted for early failure. On my ZT-T the master, a quality branded part, failed after a new clutch and dmf was fitted after only 3000 miles and 13 months. Then a further 3500 miles and 10 months the master failed a couple of weeks ago. This is a gearbox out job so traded it in. Advice from respected traders on here was if I fix it it will only fail again in a short time. Some seem to be fortunate and get good life from the replacements but others like me and sounds like yours do not. Experts offer better life from one make and other experts, our club clutch guru being one, have told me they are all the same having them failed in as little as three months and straight out of the box.

Really miss the car and hope to get another at some time but it will be an auto.

My old car has now turned up on eBay advertised as emmaculate condition, with cruise control, heated seats, side air bags, fsh non of which it has, and no faults whatsoever so beware.

Saxyem · 4th February 2017, 08:16

Thank you for your honesty Robsun, I had no warranty on the car so I am not sure which way to go on this, if I was to just sell it on as is I would not get anywhere near what I paid for the car, I had contemplated getting a solid clutch kit and upgraded slave but either way it shall be an expensive job and I am not too sure I really wish to spend a small fortune only for it to fail again.

I shall speak with the dealer to find out precisely what had been changed, having had the car one week I think I have been stuffed but I do know that he was honest enough to show me what it owed and this is what I paid him after haggling. It all seems a dire shame because if it was not for these faults the car drives great and is in excellent overall condition.

Old Mally · 4th February 2017, 15:35

Picked mine up yesterday, bought unseen.
Have the same temp problem so ordered the inline kit, thanks for peoples advice on that.
The clutch on mine seems fine, but it worries me that the replacement cost could be more than I paid for the car.
As you say they are nice to drive, possibly attempt the job yourself if you have the facilities/capability.
It's spares or repair now so you can't make it worse.

Saxyem · 17th February 2017, 23:12

Yet another update.

Yesterday for the first time I went through a carwash- I think this was a big mistake because although I could not see any leaks from the rear window whilst going through the wash it poured in!

I had a look when I got out and the rear window seems to be held in place with the wiper assembly, I can put my hand all the way down the drivers side of the rear window hence to say it appears to be unattached from the body.

This needs fixing fast so I really could do with some advice or pointers to any recommended window repairers or is this an easy fix?

Saxyem · 17th February 2017, 23:24

here is a pic of my 75
[IMG]

[/IMG]

17th February 2017, 23:24	#20
Saxyem Regular poster Rover 75 Club SE CDT Tourer Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Kings Cliffe Posts: 54 Thanks: 29 Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Photo here is a pic of my 75 [IMG][/IMG]

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2nd February 2017, 13:12	#13
tourer Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer CDT Auto. Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Long Eaton Posts: 1,342 Thanks: 30 Thanked 220 Times in 160 Posts	Hi. You mentioned you bought from a dealer. Could he fix the few issues you have or did the car come with no warranty whatsoever?

3rd February 2017, 22:48	#15
Saxyem Regular poster Rover 75 Club SE CDT Tourer Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Kings Cliffe Posts: 54 Thanks: 29 Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Thanks again, Today after I had driven half a mile the clutch pedal dropped to the floor and stuck, I pulled over and depressed it a couple of times and it came back up fine, yesterday I was in town and it was just very hard to get into gear, lots of crunching and stickiness. I don;t have the time to check the actual clutch so am going to have to let me usual garage have a look to see what is amiss. The dealer showed me the receipt for the new clutch though there is rattling when i depress it, I am wondering if he really did change the slave on the thrust bearing like he said he had.

3rd February 2017, 23:38	#16
RobSun Gets stuck in MGZTT Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Bradford Posts: 529 Thanks: 148 Thanked 256 Times in 138 Posts	Don't want to be the one to give you bad news but it will be the master and or slave cylinder that has failed. It is common knowledge that the quality of these parts on these cars is sadly variable and are noted for early failure. On my ZT-T the master, a quality branded part, failed after a new clutch and dmf was fitted after only 3000 miles and 13 months. Then a further 3500 miles and 10 months the master failed a couple of weeks ago. This is a gearbox out job so traded it in. Advice from respected traders on here was if I fix it it will only fail again in a short time. Some seem to be fortunate and get good life from the replacements but others like me and sounds like yours do not. Experts offer better life from one make and other experts, our club clutch guru being one, have told me they are all the same having them failed in as little as three months and straight out of the box. Really miss the car and hope to get another at some time but it will be an auto. My old car has now turned up on eBay advertised as emmaculate condition, with cruise control, heated seats, side air bags, fsh non of which it has, and no faults whatsoever so beware.

4th February 2017, 08:16	#17
Saxyem Regular poster Rover 75 Club SE CDT Tourer Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Kings Cliffe Posts: 54 Thanks: 29 Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Thank you for your honesty Robsun, I had no warranty on the car so I am not sure which way to go on this, if I was to just sell it on as is I would not get anywhere near what I paid for the car, I had contemplated getting a solid clutch kit and upgraded slave but either way it shall be an expensive job and I am not too sure I really wish to spend a small fortune only for it to fail again. I shall speak with the dealer to find out precisely what had been changed, having had the car one week I think I have been stuffed but I do know that he was honest enough to show me what it owed and this is what I paid him after haggling. It all seems a dire shame because if it was not for these faults the car drives great and is in excellent overall condition.

4th February 2017, 15:35	#18
Old Mally Regular poster Rover 75 CDTi Tourer Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: littleborough Posts: 89 Thanks: 12 Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts	Picked mine up yesterday, bought unseen. Have the same temp problem so ordered the inline kit, thanks for peoples advice on that. The clutch on mine seems fine, but it worries me that the replacement cost could be more than I paid for the car. As you say they are nice to drive, possibly attempt the job yourself if you have the facilities/capability. It's spares or repair now so you can't make it worse.

17th February 2017, 23:12	#19
Saxyem Regular poster Rover 75 Club SE CDT Tourer Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Kings Cliffe Posts: 54 Thanks: 29 Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Yet another update. Yesterday for the first time I went through a carwash- I think this was a big mistake because although I could not see any leaks from the rear window whilst going through the wash it poured in! I had a look when I got out and the rear window seems to be held in place with the wiper assembly, I can put my hand all the way down the drivers side of the rear window hence to say it appears to be unattached from the body. This needs fixing fast so I really could do with some advice or pointers to any recommended window repairers or is this an easy fix?