Rustproofing new rear arms

[Blink]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

The 360 degree lances, supplied with some of the Bilt Hamner products work well when sprayed in through the holes. I did mine, left them to harden, then looked in with an LED endoscope and everything was coated, right into the nooks and crannies.......

Yes, I've got a Bilt Hamber lance - they supply one with every two cans of Dynax S50.

How did you decide when you'd put enough S50 on when you can't see inside the subframe. Or did you just empty the whole can in there?

[MissMoppet]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

The 360 degree lances, supplied with some of the Bilt Hamner products work well when sprayed in through the holes. I did mine, left them to harden, then looked in with an LED endoscope and everything was coated, right into the nooks and crannies. I repeat the coatings each year, inside and out, prior to MOT.

Gordon Bennet: please put me down to buy the motor when you get tired of it...

[roverbarmy]

Originally Posted by Blink

Yes, I've got a Bilt Hamber lance - they supply one with every two cans of Dynax S80.

How did you decide when you'd put enough S80 on when you can't see inside the subframe. Or did you just empty the whole can in there?

It gets a can every year! I used S50 first and then UB for good measure. I bought two cans of each, the first time I did the subframe and the upper arms. It will probably outlast me!


https://www.bilthamber.com/which-cavity-wax

[Blink]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

It gets a can every year! I used S50 first and then S80 for good measure. I bought two cans of each, the first time I did the subframe and the upper arms.

Sorry, got my Bilt Hamber numbers mixed up there (post 31). I meant S50 (the wax), not S80. There's no such thing as 'S80' - only Hydrate 80, the rust converter. I think BH should change their naming system. - the word 'hydrate' conjures up the exact opposite of rust conversion. https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/

Btw, what sort of money is a decent LED endoscope?

[roverbarmy]

Originally Posted by Blink

Sorry, got my Bilt Hamber numbers mixed up there (post 31). I meant S50 (the wax), not S80. There's no such thing as 'S80' - only Hydrate 80, the rust converter. I think BH should change their naming system. - the word 'hydrate' conjures up the exact opposite of rust conversion. https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/

Btw, what sort of money is a decent LED endoscope?

I've amended the S80 to UB. I also use the UC (clear). I bought my endoscope from ebay:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...amera&_sacat=0
There are plenty available. Mine is for use with a laptop but many of the newer ones can be used with an android phone with the correct app. Finding a "correct" app can be a nightmare, so I never bothered with the phone. Someone else may have had more success!

[Blink]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

I've amended the S80 to UB. I also use the UC (clear). I bought my endoscope from ebay:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...amera&_sacat=0
There are plenty available. Mine is for use with a laptop but many of the newer ones can be used with an android phone with the correct app. Finding a "correct" app can be a nightmare, so I never bothered with the phone. Someone else may have had more success!

They're pretty inexpensive then - cheap enough to give one a try.

First, I'm trying to figure out how much Dynax S50 I need to cover the insides of these with a hefty coating:

Sills - upper & lower, both sides (wax injected via the 12 chrome trim holes and the 5 drain holes)
Rear subframe
Rear upper arms

I've got 2 cans at the moment - how many more do I need do you think?