Dead 190

[bsafly]

I still have a dead 190! Checked for power at fuel pump when cranking - none, Rev counter resolutely stays at zero during cranking and diagnostics indicate 'no crankshaft signal'. Two new crank sensors and a good known working one later, still no crank signal and now the traction control light comes up as a smaller icon on the IPK as soon as the ignition is switched on (previously only came on as a large icon after 3 - 5 seconds cranking). Car is loaded on trailer ready to go off for T4 attention, will advise when I know the root of the problem (hope it's wiring and not ECM problem - only just had full cam belt replacement, so guessing the wiring loom would need to be moved about for access ).

[trikey]

Originally Posted by bsafly

only just had full cam belt replacement, so guessing the wiring loom would need to be moved about for access ).

Hmm, could be the 'missing' earth at the rear bank issue then.. This can fry the ecu in no time if the earth is not attached.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by trikey

Hmm, could be the 'missing' earth at the rear bank issue then.. This can fry the ecu in no time if the earth is not attached.

I may just have a nice new NNN000170 too

[bsafly]

I have noticed that the rubber boot for the crank sensor connector is missing, however the connector and contacts appear clean with no corrosion. I have used contact cleaner on the connector and connected/disconnected a few times, made no difference. How obtainable are 190 ECM/ECU's if required?

[trikey]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

I may just have a nice new NNN000170 too

Quite easy to obtain I reckon

[bsafly]

Originally Posted by trikey

Hmm, could be the 'missing' earth at the rear bank issue then.. This can fry the ecu in no time if the earth is not attached.

How quickly would that happen, car has probably done 300 miles since belt change, no signs of problem until it cut out (as I throttled off for a junction and simultaneously clipped a smallish pothole). Best I stop theorising and wait for the T4 results, thanks for all your advise, Paul.

[trikey]

Originally Posted by bsafly

How quickly would that happen, car has probably done 300 miles since belt change, no signs of problem until it cut out (as I throttled off for a junction and simultaneously clipped a smallish pothole). Best I stop theorising and wait for the T4 results, thanks for all your advise, Paul.

Not sure how quick it happens but it’s never instant!

[bsafly]

Update on the 190, T4 session showed 'no crank signal', wiring loom to crank sensor tested and inspected, fault traced to fuse 1 in engine fuse box blown, new fuse fitted followed by long road test, back on T4 - ok. Picked car up, running great, got to second roundabout, slowed down gently and - traction control light came on, engine cut out and wouldn't restart. Quick under bonnet with torch (it was dark) found fuse 1 blown, popped in new fuse and proceeded home with no further trouble. Having a think about it at home, seemed to recall a post about lambda sensor wiring chaffing on heatshield and causing ECM fuse to blow, am I imagining that or could that be a valid cause? Not having a great time with my cars this week, front spring broke on the 75 tourer last night up an unlit country lane on my way home, didn't deflate the almost brand new tyre, but did enough damage to render it unsafe to drive - must order tyre protectors from Rimmer.

[Ps3000]

Originally Posted by trikey

Hmm, could be the 'missing' earth at the rear bank issue then.. This can fry the ecu in no time if the earth is not attached.

Would like to know more about this in case it's a problem I am just about to create....
Is there are write up anywhere?

[bsafly]

Jacked the 190 up this morning to check lambda sensor wiring and instantly found the cause - the brand new Cat just fitted is the culprit. The rear lambda sensor boss is incorrectly placed, causing the end of the sensor where the wires exit to sit 1mm away from the heatshield at the point where it folds over the flange of the subframe! (Explains why the fuse only blows when throttling off). I managed to gain another 1mm by carefully forming the heatshield back against the subframe, then taped up the wiring as a temporary measure. Is a shorter bodied, but compatabie sensor available as that would be the easiest remedy (I am going to renew the sensor anyway as the wiring is damaged). I don't know the manufacturer of the cat as I had it fitted by someone else, but it may be worth checking if anyone is fitting a replacement cat. Car now running faultlessly, just come back from a good hard run, no problem at all (apart from the nearly empty fuel tank! )