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Old 15th September 2013, 17:53   #291
NigelOBB
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Originally Posted by ice man View Post
For info, My car was getting short infrequent journeys by a previous owner. The Thermostat was constantly keeping the engine at 72-74 degrees. now after a few months with some decent runs it has improved to 80-82. this is not to do with the weather etc... it just seems that through use it has recovered?
Mine was getting up to around 74-80 and 90+ in traffic when it was warm back to norm now the weather has changed. 65-60
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Old 15th September 2013, 20:54   #292
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Quote from T=CUT
"I don't see any significance in the 28mm measurement. That was simply the rebound measurement after allowing air behind the piston. It showed that the seal of the envelope is pretty good, but it's not perfect. When the piston is held compressed for a while. the protrusion will be less because the air will have escaped."

Hi T-cut,
My mistake regarding the 28mm, it should have read 18mm, this is with reference to French Mike and his photo showing the unit against a ruler in post 236.

I understand your reasoning with regard to the ingress of water, but was wondering that if, the hard particles you have discovered, accumulated under the rubber sleeve at the pointed end of the push rod, would this prevent the push rod returning to it original starting point over a period of time as the deposit built up.

This was the reason for my question about the length of the push rod sticking out of the brass capsule, and wondering if this changed between faulty and new units, since this length is critical to the opening point of the thermostat.

Cheers, Pete.
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Old 15th September 2013, 21:04   #293
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Originally Posted by Union Wheels View Post
I understand your reasoning with regard to the ingress of water, but was wondering that if, the hard particles you have discovered, accumulated under the rubber sleeve at the pointed end of the push rod, would this prevent the push rod returning to it original starting point over a period of time as the deposit built up.
That would presuppose all failed stats had the hard solids always deposited in the same place, at the far end of the piston. If these solids don't melt at the standard temperature, then there's less of the 'good' stuff to propel the piston. As I said, it's swings and roundabouts. I suspect these intractable lumps are the result of hydrolysis of the wax by water getting into it. It's only a proposition though, and without access to the appropriate analytical tools, we'll never know. An offer of analysis abroad came to nought.
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Old 15th September 2013, 22:51   #294
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Maybe it never really got warmed up before? I doubt a failing stat will make any sort of recovery, but circumstances maybe suggest it did.

TC
I wasn't sure TBH, but I have been watching it on journeys to work for the last few months, approx. 10 miles, in warm weather. temperature was rising to 74 ish after 3 or 4 miles then hovering there.

each month it has gone up a couple of degrees. It goes up to 80-82 now and never drops below this whilst the engine is running.

(note - I did get it up to 96 degrees the other day in some traffic on a hot day, then I left it idling for 10 minutes charging a friends dead battery from my jump leads. The fan cut in and brought it down to 91 degrees. As soon as I was out on the open road it went back to a steady 82 degrees.)

The thermostat has definitely improved with a change in use... maybe not a full recovery but it has changed its opening point by around 6-8 degrees.

I have only owned the car since may so the weather has not been a significant factor, it has always been warm...

We shall see what happens in winter. I can always get an inline thermostat or fix my FBH if it doesn't heat up nicely....

** EDIT ** driving to work this morning - no motorway for a change, the car didn't warm up as quickly taking 6 miles / 20 minutes to reach and maintain around 78 degrees. Put my toe down to pull off from traffic lights to 50 mph and it quickly rose to 81, then fell back to 78 within a less than a minute... so it is only a few degrees warmer than when I got it. (was 74 now 78)

Stuff it - I'm going to get an in line 'stat and get it to sit at 90 degrees when funds allow it!
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Last edited by Trevor1975; 16th September 2013 at 11:40..
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Old 16th September 2013, 12:15   #295
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We shall see what happens in winter. I can always get an inline thermostat or fix my FBH if it doesn't heat up nicely....
Making use of the FBH when the stat is working below design temperature, is not a good solution. The FBH tries to heat the coolant to around 78C and if the stat, is trying to maintain less than 78, the heat produced by the FBH and the fuel it burns in producing the heat will be wasted, being dissipated by the radiator warming the outside air once the stat opens.
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Old 16th September 2013, 12:22   #296
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Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT View Post
Making use of the FBH when the stat is working below design temperature, is not a good solution. The FBH tries to heat the coolant to around 78C and if the stat, is trying to maintain less than 78, the heat produced by the FBH and the fuel it burns in producing the heat will be wasted, being dissipated by the radiator warming the outside air once the stat opens.
Thanks Harry, I understand that...

Just havent had to use the heater yet.... If it takes 20 mins to warm up to ~78 in summer when my stat opens, then it could be a long cold drive to work.

So I want an inline stat to maintain 90 degrees and the FBH to make it get there quickly.... thats what I meant....
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Old 22nd November 2022, 09:46   #297
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So I've just spent an interesting hour or two slow-reading this 9-yr old thread! It's like someone tore the last few pages out the book though.

Did anyone ever progress the experimenting to anything resembling a conclusion?

Douugie.
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