FBH - How to install, test and service - Page 2

HarryM1BYT · 17th December 2011, 18:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by man of kent

Harry. As I wanted to fire up my non remote FBH in the summer I spotted this post somewhere on this forum and wrote it down. To fire the FBH up with no remote:-

Model 66232C 12 volt to pin 1
Model 98570B earth to pin 3

Clarification please. Are they both correct and where is the model number?

On my 98570B later model, that number is on the label which faces you (second line up from the bottom on the left) and on a second label on the end panel which faces out to the wing.

I can confirm shorting pin 3 to ground works on my model, but obviously cannot confirm the method for the earlier one, but it seems safe to assume it is correct - so I will include it.

man of kent · 17th December 2011, 18:52

http://techwebasto.com/heater_main/t...hop/63378A.pdf

Dont know if this is exactly the one on the 75, but certainly looks like it.

man of kent · 17th December 2011, 18:58

This might help as well. You can also find service agents.

http://techwebasto.com/heater_car_light_truck.htm

Jakg · 17th December 2011, 19:50

Quick question.... if you drive for an hour, with the coolant temp 80+, and when you stop and turn the ignition off you can still hear the FBH running, what would this suggest?

Mine comes on and makes a noise, but doesn't appear to actually do any heating...

HarryM1BYT · 17th December 2011, 20:16

QUOTE=Jakg

Quick question.... if you drive for an hour, with the coolant temp 80+, and when you stop and turn the ignition off you can still hear the FBH running, what would this suggest?

If the temperature is definately higher than the 77C that the FBH is supposed to turn off at, then I would guess at the FBH being wrongly triggered by activity on the k-bus - try cutting that white/red/yellow k-bus wire.

Mine comes on and makes a noise, but doesn't appear to actually do any heating...

Try the test mode (grounding pin3 on the later model). If it doesn't go through the firing sequence - Running for a few seconds, silent for a few seconds, running again combined with the pump ticking, then the slight roar of combustion, it is probably a faulty PCB. Talk to FrenchMike about a PCB repair.

HarryM1BYT · 17th December 2011, 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Singvogel

Truly a brilliant explanation Harry. I've taken the liberty of quoting a paragraph of it to a friend who didn't understand that he even had a fbh!

Hope you don't mind - I credited you as author - I couldn't have written it so clearly or concisely.

Well done,

Singvogel.

No problem at all, it is there to be used.

HarryM1BYT · 17th December 2011, 20:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by man of kent

This might help as well. You can also find service agents.

http://techwebasto.com/heater_car_light_truck.htm

Thanks - both links now added.

Jakg · 17th December 2011, 20:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

QUOTE=Jakg

Quick question.... if you drive for an hour, with the coolant temp 80+, and when you stop and turn the ignition off you can still hear the FBH running, what would this suggest?

If the temperature is definately higher than the 77C that the FBH is supposed to turn off at, then I would guess at the FBH being wrongly triggered by activity on the k-bus - try cutting that white/red/yellow k-bus wire.

Mine comes on and makes a noise, but doesn't appear to actually do any heating...

Try the test mode (grounding pin3 on the later model). If it doesn't go through the firing sequence - Running for a few seconds, silent for a few seconds, running again combined with the pump ticking, then the slight roar of combustion, it is probably a faulty PCB. Talk to FrenchMike about a PCB repair.

PCB's fine, already sent to Mike.

Will try cutting the K-Bus wire tonight...

I DID get a lot of white smoke when it first got cold though - guessing I need to strip mine down to service it.

Really need to get this sorted at some point!

EDIT - Cut. Will test it when I go out tonight...

BigRuss · 17th December 2011, 20:43

When the heater has been running it will still operate after the ignition is turned off this is normal as it goes through a shutdown proceedure where ignition is cut, the internal fan then continues to cool down the burner, when cool enough the FBH will shutdown completely.

Please don't go cutting the K-bus wire with no good reason, if weird stuff is happening to other electric systems then unplug the FBH, your PCB is faulty.

There for a very good reason for the K-bus, it's there for diagnostic purposes, the cars ZCS coding includes the heater, when on T4 and running a diagnostic it will look for the heater via the K-bus if this is cut then it doesn't find it and you won't be able to run a full vehicle diagnostic.

Makes the time diagnosing faults an awful lot longer because then each ECU then needs to be accessed seperately. (the same goes for anything connected to the K-bus, CAN-bus or Nav-bus.)

Russ

Jakg · 17th December 2011, 20:48

D'oh, bit late now... can always reconnect it if needs be. Don't see any T4 sessions in the future though...

PCB isn't faulty (Mikes already checked it).

The problem is that even after driving for hours, with the car running at 80+ (using the inline stat), the FBH will continue running when I park up (no idea if its been running the entire time).

I understand it can run on to cool down... but it shouldn't of been on at all if it'd been hot enough for so long

17th December 2011, 20:16	#15
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	QUOTE=Jakg Quick question.... if you drive for an hour, with the coolant temp 80+, and when you stop and turn the ignition off you can still hear the FBH running, what would this suggest? If the temperature is definately higher than the 77C that the FBH is supposed to turn off at, then I would guess at the FBH being wrongly triggered by activity on the k-bus - try cutting that white/red/yellow k-bus wire. Mine comes on and makes a noise, but doesn't appear to actually do any heating... Try the test mode (grounding pin3 on the later model). If it doesn't go through the firing sequence - Running for a few seconds, silent for a few seconds, running again combined with the pump ticking, then the slight roar of combustion, it is probably a faulty PCB. Talk to FrenchMike about a PCB repair. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

17th December 2011, 20:43	#19
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,405 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	When the heater has been running it will still operate after the ignition is turned off this is normal as it goes through a shutdown proceedure where ignition is cut, the internal fan then continues to cool down the burner, when cool enough the FBH will shutdown completely. Please don't go cutting the K-bus wire with no good reason, if weird stuff is happening to other electric systems then unplug the FBH, your PCB is faulty. There for a very good reason for the K-bus, it's there for diagnostic purposes, the cars ZCS coding includes the heater, when on T4 and running a diagnostic it will look for the heater via the K-bus if this is cut then it doesn't find it and you won't be able to run a full vehicle diagnostic. Makes the time diagnosing faults an awful lot longer because then each ECU then needs to be accessed seperately. (the same goes for anything connected to the K-bus, CAN-bus or Nav-bus.) Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details.

17th December 2011, 18:52	#12
man of kent Loves to post 75 tourer auto diesel Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Nordelph, nr Downham Market Posts: 419 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	http://techwebasto.com/heater_main/t...hop/63378A.pdf Dont know if this is exactly the one on the 75, but certainly looks like it.

17th December 2011, 18:58	#13
man of kent Loves to post 75 tourer auto diesel Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Nordelph, nr Downham Market Posts: 419 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	This might help as well. You can also find service agents. http://techwebasto.com/heater_car_light_truck.htm

17th December 2011, 19:50	#14
Jakg This is my second home N/A Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 6,867 Thanks: 0 Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts	Quick question.... if you drive for an hour, with the coolant temp 80+, and when you stop and turn the ignition off you can still hear the FBH running, what would this suggest? Mine comes on and makes a noise, but doesn't appear to actually do any heating...

17th December 2011, 20:48	#20
Jakg This is my second home N/A Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 6,867 Thanks: 0 Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts	D'oh, bit late now... can always reconnect it if needs be. Don't see any T4 sessions in the future though... PCB isn't faulty (Mikes already checked it). The problem is that even after driving for hours, with the car running at 80+ (using the inline stat), the FBH will continue running when I park up (no idea if its been running the entire time). I understand it can run on to cool down... but it shouldn't of been on at all if it'd been hot enough for so long