Wishbone - how to crack the ball-joint. - Page 3

Blink · 26th April 2019, 13:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike24

......Having replaced the droplinks (twice in two years) and the anti roll-bar bushes but still getting clunks from the front suspension over rough roads, I decided to bite the bullet and replace the front wishbones. .....

....... On inspection all four of the old ball-joints were a little loose, though not very, but the car is now much quieter over rough roads and the steering feels a little tighter too. Hopefully that's it for front suspension jobs - at least for now!

Did this fix your clonks long-term Mike - i.e. is it still 'de-clonked'?

Did you change the wishbones and the bushes (all 4 parts shown here) or just the wishbones?

Cantray · 9th July 2021, 21:08

Hi all

Just about to do this job.

With this method, do you need to break the subframe balljoint before detaching the bush and the lower strut balljoint?

thanks

Jim

xsport · 9th July 2021, 22:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cantray

Hi all

Just about to do this job.

With this method, do you need to break the subframe balljoint before detaching the bush and the lower strut balljoint?

thanks

Jim

my last job whilst in this process is to crack the subframe joint. it needs to be free to pop up if you are using the impact or puller version. i found the trapped hammer method worked well for me but you need the lower joint still bolted and tight to get the spring pressure with a jack underneath. if you use the impact method where you drive it out from underneath the subframe only with brute force , what i found was if you remove the rubber from around the subframe joint it helps as i believe it dampens the impact because of the rubber and lessens the shock effect. (if your not re using it of course) i preffered the spring method personally but sometimes you need both !!!

Cantray · 9th July 2021, 22:25

Thanks for that - so to confirm "hammer head" method steps in order will be: release bush mount at rear. loosen subframe balljoint nut. Jack up under strut lower balljoint to create space. place hammer head as fulcrum in space created. Let jack down to break subframe balljoint. Undo lower pinch bolt and balljoint. Have I got that right?

xsport · 9th July 2021, 23:08

i just cracked the lower joint first then nipped it back up when i did mine .
i havedone 5 now. i dont think it makes much difference apart from recoil on the pin and swivel hub being a damage possibility albeit slight. the subframe balljoint only needs upwards movement of a few thou so is not impeded for upwards movement anyway. another point to mention is that the rear bush whilst still bolted also absorbs the shock effect from hammer blows due to the rubber bushing insert .just remove the bolts anyway. it also depends how long the bush has been in and how rust welded the joint has become. i have never bought into the idea of raising and dropping the car down quickly on to a solid support to release method. for me it never worked because if you look at the angle of the subframe joint through the subframe its not vertical and by dropping it onto a support below does nothing . you may as well hit the pin sideways because it achieves absolutely nothing . dont expect the subframe joint to pop out immediately whilst under spring pressure everytime. on two of mine all that was needed was a couple of taps whilst it was under pressure from the spring and out they popped. key to it is remove bolts on rear bush first this will give more pressure to the spring. good luck.

xsport · 9th July 2021, 23:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cantray

Thanks for that - so to confirm "hammer head" method steps in order will be: release bush mount at rear. loosen subframe balljoint nut. Jack up under strut lower balljoint to create space. place hammer head as fulcrum in space created. Let jack down to break subframe balljoint. Undo lower pinch bolt and balljoint. Have I got that right?

dont try to get too near to the balljoint pin as it needs some movement downwards to get momentum . otherwise you will just stop it dropping . again i removed the rubber gaiter out of the way first as i was not re fitting the arm anyway.

TourerSteve · 11th July 2021, 11:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by xsport

my last job whilst in this process is to crack the subframe joint. it needs to be free to pop up if you are using the impact or puller version. i found the trapped hammer method worked well for me but you need the lower joint still bolted and tight to get the spring pressure with a jack underneath. if you use the impact method where you drive it out from underneath the subframe only with brute force , what i found was if you remove the rubber from around the subframe joint it helps as i believe it dampens the impact because of the rubber and lessens the shock effect. (if your not re using it of course) i preffered the spring method personally but sometimes you need both !!!

Had every intention of trying this method but curiosity got the better of me and I tried it first with my hammer and was successful after 3 hits , So may be next time I will try it if I find a stubborn taper

COLVERT · 11th July 2021, 22:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by TourerSteve

Had every intention of trying this method but curiosity got the better of me and I tried it first with my hammer and was successful after 3 hits , So may be next time I will try it if I find a stubborn taper

My 7 lb lump hammer did the trick too in a couple of whacks.--

Cantray · 11th July 2021, 22:43

Thanks all. It's proving a challenge. No movement with the fulcrum technique and lump hammer. Have applied heat to pin end and even managed to get a chain round the subframe to use 2.5 ton trolley jack to apply 2.5 tons of pressure. Nothing! Fortunately not in a hurry. Will get bigger lump hammer.

TourerSteve · 12th July 2021, 06:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cantray

Thanks all. It's proving a challenge. No movement with the fulcrum technique and lump hammer. Have applied heat to pin end and even managed to get a chain round the subframe to use 2.5 ton trolley jack to apply 2.5 tons of pressure. Nothing! Fortunately not in a hurry. Will get bigger lump hammer.

Like Colvert I used a 7lb lump hammer ,
The higher the car from the ground the better the swing with the hammer ,
A Heavier hammer performs better as it is less likely to bounce and transfer's more energy to the item been hit . A few big hits more effective than a lot of small taps , If your replacing the arm a bit of bruising isn't a problem anyway
If you keep assaulting it the taper will eventually give , and then you be left thinking what took all the effort

Failing that others have had success with a puller , but up to now and I have done a few never had to resort to more than the hammer
The arm I am changing has slight outer ball joint play but been the original arm is 17 years old so has given good service

9th July 2021, 21:08	#22
Cantray Avid contributor Rover 75 1.8 Club SE, Rover 75 cdt Club, Rover 75 1.8 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Inverness Posts: 163 Thanks: 48 Thanked 44 Times in 27 Posts	Hi all Just about to do this job. With this method, do you need to break the subframe balljoint before detaching the bush and the lower strut balljoint? thanks Jim

9th July 2021, 22:25	#24
Cantray Avid contributor Rover 75 1.8 Club SE, Rover 75 cdt Club, Rover 75 1.8 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Inverness Posts: 163 Thanks: 48 Thanked 44 Times in 27 Posts	Thanks for that - so to confirm "hammer head" method steps in order will be: release bush mount at rear. loosen subframe balljoint nut. Jack up under strut lower balljoint to create space. place hammer head as fulcrum in space created. Let jack down to break subframe balljoint. Undo lower pinch bolt and balljoint. Have I got that right?

9th July 2021, 23:08	#25
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	i just cracked the lower joint first then nipped it back up when i did mine . i havedone 5 now. i dont think it makes much difference apart from recoil on the pin and swivel hub being a damage possibility albeit slight. the subframe balljoint only needs upwards movement of a few thou so is not impeded for upwards movement anyway. another point to mention is that the rear bush whilst still bolted also absorbs the shock effect from hammer blows due to the rubber bushing insert .just remove the bolts anyway. it also depends how long the bush has been in and how rust welded the joint has become. i have never bought into the idea of raising and dropping the car down quickly on to a solid support to release method. for me it never worked because if you look at the angle of the subframe joint through the subframe its not vertical and by dropping it onto a support below does nothing . you may as well hit the pin sideways because it achieves absolutely nothing . dont expect the subframe joint to pop out immediately whilst under spring pressure everytime. on two of mine all that was needed was a couple of taps whilst it was under pressure from the spring and out they popped. key to it is remove bolts on rear bush first this will give more pressure to the spring. good luck.

11th July 2021, 22:43	#29
Cantray Avid contributor Rover 75 1.8 Club SE, Rover 75 cdt Club, Rover 75 1.8 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Inverness Posts: 163 Thanks: 48 Thanked 44 Times in 27 Posts	Thanks all. It's proving a challenge. No movement with the fulcrum technique and lump hammer. Have applied heat to pin end and even managed to get a chain round the subframe to use 2.5 ton trolley jack to apply 2.5 tons of pressure. Nothing! Fortunately not in a hurry. Will get bigger lump hammer.