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Old 5th January 2009, 21:57   #1
-Joe
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Default Engine swap tip

After recently changing my diesel engine with only regular tools I found...

1. Much easier to remove the engine if you firstly remove the bumper & whole front of the car to do the job. It may be possible without doing this but the jobs so much easier if you do.

2. No need to disconnect air con. Swing the rad complex to one side bending rubber pipes. Support it's weight with a rope

3. Check the hoses.. Loads of mine were badly chaffed & needed lagging.

4. Make sure you disconnect the battery before anything else, by doing this you don't get any fault lighting up.

5. Good idea to change / inspect thermostat whilst it's easy to get at.

6. Be carefull with ECU cables, they have fragile connectors at the ECU end. Make sure ECU cabels are correctly mounted at the firewall.

7. You can undo the clucth brass thingy with a screwdriver... but you need to make a tool to put it back together, unless you have the strength of superman. I used rope, 2 bits of shaped wood and a lever.

8. Quick release water pipes are not well named. I had 2 that were totally stuck. I unbolted the water pipes manifold instead.

9. On the front of the engine is the electric junction box. My old one had some signs of water ingress. I sealed the new one carefully with hydromar.

10. Make sure all electrics are 100% clean and plugs in good condition and wiring routed away from possible abrasion of hot bits.

11. Make sure water is bled properly. I checked this before every journey until I was sure there were no leaks.

12. Gearbox selector cables can be removed with a spanner as a lever. They are difficult to get back into their sleave slots. They are only correctly in place when the tops of the clips rest neatly. Study / photo them before removing them so you know what to do later.

13. You need to get both the wheels off and separate both clinch ball joints. Seemed really tricky but I tied rope to the end of the bottom arm to make a loop and put the end of a 5ft long timber beam through it. Stand on the beam and it pops out easily.

14. I used 2 screwdrivers as wedges to prise out the driveshaft. It was much easier than the PG1 box to get the shafts out, but same shock technique was required. You must punch it out with an impulse rather than a slow pull.

15. When refitting assemble engine, gearbox, turbo / exhaust.... wires /rear pipes etc before lifting back into the car.

16. Next time I wouid clearly number the bolts and holes used to mate the engine / gearbox and those for the power steering pump. These are easily mixed up wasting time on reassembly.

17. The power steering pump system needs to be well drained early on. I lost a lot fluid and it made a bit of a mess.

18. Plenum chamber was a pond, had to unblock the vents. R75 auto-destruct burn car/garage/house down feature thankfully a few rainclouds short of activation!



I hope this may help others as I found these were the things I had to find out for myself that wern't covered in the manual very well. I would recommend the Haynes manual and use my post as a suppliment for the DIYer barnyard engineer.

Last edited by -Joe; 5th January 2009 at 23:40.. Reason: update extra bits + format2
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Old 5th January 2009, 22:16   #2
scgfull
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Default

Thanks Joe,

I have marked this thread in case I should need the info in the future.

:xmas-smiley-034:
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