Disaster - cambelt failure, KV6 heads wanted - Page 9

StewartIngram · 18th January 2022, 06:53

Not quite there yet, though the build is essentially complete.
The plastic cover finally arrived, and I swapped it over then continued the build. However, front head, there is a small pipe at the cyl 5 position, onto which a hose connects, to a 3 way adaptor., then ultimately to the header tank, and the rear head. I found my old one was cracked, so tried a repair with brass tubing. But the tube wouldn't enter the pipe to the header tank, due to blockage, so a replacement is on order (due this week). Good job I spotted that crack!
Other than that, all I have left is the plastic inlet manifold, and some re-crimping of electrical connections to the lpg injectors. I'll leave those until the replacement hose is on.
I've steadily cleaned everything as I've replaced bits. The engine has been turned over successfully by hand. I'm also going to do an oil change and antifreeze . The timing tool kit has had some modifications (basically filing down in places) to make it easier to use - must have been a Chinese clone!
I have 2 or 3 small brackets which I'm not sure of, that hold cables etc in place; I will eventually add these as I identify them. Everything is in the right place and not going to get tangled anywhere for now.
Later in the week - hopefully - I'll have more updates.

StewartIngram · 23rd January 2022, 18:34

At long last, I've had it running.

Only for a few seconds though, as I've not yet put any coolant in. I've got a few snagging jobs to sort out in the morning as well. When I had sorted out the ongoing faults (more in a moment), I fired her up and she went "on the button" as the second hand dealers say. TBH, quite a moment! Revs are a bit high, and exhaust sounds a bit noisy, but I'm happy.
I've been suffering this week with fuel rail leaks (I hate taking them off, they are always a pain to get back on without leaks). I've had numerous attempts, which of course meant taking things apart again to get at the rails, and next time it is a different injector playing up....but we got there in the end. And of course there was the cold to deal with too - I'll guarantee there will be a heatwave in the next few days now that I'm there.....
Due to the lpg fitting (itself it is not an issue, and I understand it well), there is little space in the engine bay to fit things. So putting it all back together, I now realise the throttle cable needs re-routing. That should sort the revs out. Also the small vac pipe on top of the throttle body has a small Y-connector added, going to the lpg stuff. This is cracked; I've bodged it with self amalgamating tape until I can get a replacement. Typically, Halfords didn't stock any yesterday (A place I normally avoid). I'll check the exhaust tomorrow, strangely the 2 pipes attached to the manifolds appear to only have a gasket on 1 pipe, I reckon I've fitted it on the wrong one. Easy to check. I'll fill the water tomorrow, & check for leaks. If all ok, then I'll drain it and do the antifreeze. Once I've done the snagging, I'll change the oil for a flush, then fill with new. I've ordered some more o-rings for the fuel rails so I keep my spares stock up.
I have to thank everyone that has helped with guidance. I've done a full 827 engine before, and the front belt on a KV6. Sadly I didn't get the back belts done as I lost all the oil in the few days between the 2 jobs. I had the timing tools, which were a help, though I had to modify them so they were easier to use.
All in all, a great experience, and I've enjoyed doing it, though it was frustrating at times. The 75 is too good a car to throw away, I've lived with them for about 15 years. I didn't doubt that I would get there, though it was a big task to take on. Luckily I'm retired, so didn't rush, just took it 1 step at a time. If I was still at work, I'm sure I would have rushed it through in my 4 days off-shift, but I wouldn't have had as good a result.
Next big job? I'll wait for better weather, but get on with the Metro restoration. At least then I shall have a spare set of wheels if the 75 is stopped again.

Stewart

BRG75 · 24th January 2022, 06:35

I've been following this with great interest, glad it's turned out OK and thanks for the final? appraisal of the job.

Time for a well earned pint, or whatever.

Regards

Mike

StewartIngram · 24th January 2022, 06:46

I don't think its the final update, as I said I have some snagging to do before I'm totally satisfied. I think I'll do one more when that is all sorted.

SD1too · 24th January 2022, 07:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by StewartIngram

I'll fill the water tomorrow, & check for leaks. If all ok, then I'll drain it and do the antifreeze.

I'm sure that you will Stewart but don't forget to follow the specific MG Rover refilling and bleeding procedure for the KV6.

Thanks for the report. It is very satisfying to finish this job yourself isn't it, probably because it is so involved and because you're working alone in your spare time. Congratulations!

Simon

xsport · 24th January 2022, 13:21

im glad you got there in the end stewart. good man for having the courage . when i last did mine outside on the road, i had booked 4 days off from work. it did nothing but rain torrentially with hours in between downpours. what a game !! covering the engine and putting tools away under cover and then taking them back out.just a nightmare,but i did it....

just a word of help with the exhaust. the manifold joins only do have one gasket. that fits to the flat face to face join only. the other does not have a gasket. if you look carefully it is a ball and socket join. this clamps itself inside its recess and seals at any angle.so should be ok,so dont put a gasket on it. the studs are very brittle and i dont think they are available from rimmers now, so dont over tighten them unnecessarily. overall a good result i think......

StewartIngram · 27th January 2022, 15:53

've spent a while this week snagging. Car started, but was noisy, on 2 counts; 'exhaust' and rattles - these may be related. Obviously with 2nd hand heads there was some doubt nagging me about them, and I know I had put the exhaust gasket on the rear instead of the front downpipe. Plus a myriad of minor 'little things, to tidy up the bay.
Anyway, after half a day I was now uncertain that the timing belt was on the right tooth, so I did a partial strip down to check, with much reading of posts on this forum as well.
To cut a long story short, I was pointed to a post about the timing marks, with a Rover amendment that said fitters were to disregard the butterfly mark setting with the timing belt pulley. So, I set the ancillary belt pulley to the SAFE mark, inserted the locking pin, ignored the butterfly mark, and refitted the belt, and re-assembled.
I must admit this time it was much better. Still a noisy 'exhaust' sound; later i had another go with the gasket etc and this did improve. I must get a new gasket though. But the engine ran a lot better with the odd rattle and revs a little high. I let it run and it got quieter and smoother. Not quite perfect, but I reckon an engine flush and oil change will improve it. I checked for fault codes with my Foxwell code reader, all ok. But as I was tidying up my tools, the engine stalled. I now have 2 fault codes - P0108, P0131.
Any thoughts on this?

trikey · 27th January 2022, 16:13

The gasket goes on the pipe from the rear bank, I always use a smear of exhaust sealant around the edge of the cup on the front pipe.

StewartIngram · 29th January 2022, 12:29

Gasket ordered and on its way.
I also had an lpg pipe crack (due to being moved around), so ordered a replacement and it arrived this morning. Be good to get that back on, I only pay just over 50p a litre for lpg.
Later today I'm doing an oil flush & change. I've been out shopping this morning, about 40 mile round trip. Basically ok, but I know the valves/tappets occasionally stick, though getting better. The flush should help. I'll also have a go at the fast idle, that is sometimes high. I've got plenty of spares laying around to help.
On another tack, I've posted in the Wanted threads. I need a set of injector plugs as the cable are frayed where they go into the plugs, and I've lost a spring clip at some point. I've made a temporary repair but want to the job better,

StewartIngram · 9th February 2022, 09:26

Basically I'm up and running, but got post operation trauma lol!
Having done the rebuild I suppose you could say I'm still dealing with snagging faults, though not necessarily related directly to the rebuild.
I'll list the (possibly) relevant bits, some of which have developed since the rebuild.
Exhaust. When fitting the gasket on the downpipe, I broke a stud. So there is a bit of a blow there. I actually managed to get a pair of new/unused manifolds for £30, so that will be sorted soon, but I noticed the centre exhaust section was starting to get holes at the rear join. So I have a replacement pipe coming, and I'll deal with this all at once.
Misfire. I had at first an intermittent misfire, whiich eventually developed into a fault on cyl 6. Also, a number of injector connectors had damaged wiring at the connectors, which I resoldered (bit of a bodge really). So I have sourced replacements and fitted them, I'm satisfied with them now. However, I've now gone through a complete failure of ign coil 6, which I've replaced with a known good one (tested in another cylinder). She now fires on all 6, but with a bit of harsh vibration through the body. (This could be because part of the lpg system is vibrating on the body - awaiting some small olives in the post and will soon be sorted). However, intermittenly the engine light comes on, and always gives codes P0276 & P0306, referring to injector circuit 6 low and cyl 6 misfire. I've searched the forum about that, & found other replies, but no real conclusion. Could this be fuel pressure at No.6 or injector fault, maybe a vac pipe leaking there?
Message display on the dash. I've noticed this because of the engine light/message coming up frequently. From 'cold' it starts up normally. Sometimes with the odd vertical line /gap but not often. I've been checking mpg as well so used it a lot. After a while, the display shrinks, to the right, then gets smaller, and disappears. I can live with it until all else is done, but why does it happen, is it related?

23rd January 2022, 18:34	#82
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	At long last, I've had it running. Only for a few seconds though, as I've not yet put any coolant in. I've got a few snagging jobs to sort out in the morning as well. When I had sorted out the ongoing faults (more in a moment), I fired her up and she went "on the button" as the second hand dealers say. TBH, quite a moment! Revs are a bit high, and exhaust sounds a bit noisy, but I'm happy. I've been suffering this week with fuel rail leaks (I hate taking them off, they are always a pain to get back on without leaks). I've had numerous attempts, which of course meant taking things apart again to get at the rails, and next time it is a different injector playing up....but we got there in the end. And of course there was the cold to deal with too - I'll guarantee there will be a heatwave in the next few days now that I'm there..... Due to the lpg fitting (itself it is not an issue, and I understand it well), there is little space in the engine bay to fit things. So putting it all back together, I now realise the throttle cable needs re-routing. That should sort the revs out. Also the small vac pipe on top of the throttle body has a small Y-connector added, going to the lpg stuff. This is cracked; I've bodged it with self amalgamating tape until I can get a replacement. Typically, Halfords didn't stock any yesterday (A place I normally avoid). I'll check the exhaust tomorrow, strangely the 2 pipes attached to the manifolds appear to only have a gasket on 1 pipe, I reckon I've fitted it on the wrong one. Easy to check. I'll fill the water tomorrow, & check for leaks. If all ok, then I'll drain it and do the antifreeze. Once I've done the snagging, I'll change the oil for a flush, then fill with new. I've ordered some more o-rings for the fuel rails so I keep my spares stock up. I have to thank everyone that has helped with guidance. I've done a full 827 engine before, and the front belt on a KV6. Sadly I didn't get the back belts done as I lost all the oil in the few days between the 2 jobs. I had the timing tools, which were a help, though I had to modify them so they were easier to use. All in all, a great experience, and I've enjoyed doing it, though it was frustrating at times. The 75 is too good a car to throw away, I've lived with them for about 15 years. I didn't doubt that I would get there, though it was a big task to take on. Luckily I'm retired, so didn't rush, just took it 1 step at a time. If I was still at work, I'm sure I would have rushed it through in my 4 days off-shift, but I wouldn't have had as good a result. Next big job? I'll wait for better weather, but get on with the Metro restoration. At least then I shall have a spare set of wheels if the 75 is stopped again. Stewart Last edited by StewartIngram; 23rd January 2022 at 19:55..

24th January 2022, 06:35	#83
BRG75 Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer, 9th & 10th Rovers Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Sevenoaks Posts: 975 Thanks: 670 Thanked 290 Times in 195 Posts	I've been following this with great interest, glad it's turned out OK and thanks for the final? appraisal of the job. Time for a well earned pint, or whatever. Regards Mike __________________ Presently 2004 75 CDTi auto Connoisseur Tourer - White Gold 2001 75 2.5 auto Connoisseur Saloon - White Gold Previously 2002 75 1.8 auto Club SE, 2000 75 1.8 auto Classic SE (Company Car) 1997 420 (Company Car) 1996 216 cabriolet, 198? 213 VDP 1986 SD1 V8 VDP, 1968 2000TC, 1966 2000.

27th January 2022, 16:13	#88
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,768 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	The gasket goes on the pipe from the rear bank, I always use a smear of exhaust sealant around the edge of the cup on the front pipe. __________________ Lest we forget..

29th January 2022, 12:29	#89
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	Gasket ordered and on its way. I also had an lpg pipe crack (due to being moved around), so ordered a replacement and it arrived this morning. Be good to get that back on, I only pay just over 50p a litre for lpg. Later today I'm doing an oil flush & change. I've been out shopping this morning, about 40 mile round trip. Basically ok, but I know the valves/tappets occasionally stick, though getting better. The flush should help. I'll also have a go at the fast idle, that is sometimes high. I've got plenty of spares laying around to help. On another tack, I've posted in the Wanted threads. I need a set of injector plugs as the cable are frayed where they go into the plugs, and I've lost a spring clip at some point. I've made a temporary repair but want to the job better, Last edited by StewartIngram; 30th January 2022 at 08:46..

18th January 2022, 06:53	#81
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	Not quite there yet, though the build is essentially complete. The plastic cover finally arrived, and I swapped it over then continued the build. However, front head, there is a small pipe at the cyl 5 position, onto which a hose connects, to a 3 way adaptor., then ultimately to the header tank, and the rear head. I found my old one was cracked, so tried a repair with brass tubing. But the tube wouldn't enter the pipe to the header tank, due to blockage, so a replacement is on order (due this week). Good job I spotted that crack! Other than that, all I have left is the plastic inlet manifold, and some re-crimping of electrical connections to the lpg injectors. I'll leave those until the replacement hose is on. I've steadily cleaned everything as I've replaced bits. The engine has been turned over successfully by hand. I'm also going to do an oil change and antifreeze . The timing tool kit has had some modifications (basically filing down in places) to make it easier to use - must have been a Chinese clone! I have 2 or 3 small brackets which I'm not sure of, that hold cables etc in place; I will eventually add these as I identify them. Everything is in the right place and not going to get tangled anywhere for now. Later in the week - hopefully - I'll have more updates.

24th January 2022, 06:46	#84
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	I don't think its the final update, as I said I have some snagging to do before I'm totally satisfied. I think I'll do one more when that is all sorted.

24th January 2022, 13:21	#86
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,647 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	im glad you got there in the end stewart. good man for having the courage . when i last did mine outside on the road, i had booked 4 days off from work. it did nothing but rain torrentially with hours in between downpours. what a game !! covering the engine and putting tools away under cover and then taking them back out.just a nightmare,but i did it.... just a word of help with the exhaust. the manifold joins only do have one gasket. that fits to the flat face to face join only. the other does not have a gasket. if you look carefully it is a ball and socket join. this clamps itself inside its recess and seals at any angle.so should be ok,so dont put a gasket on it. the studs are very brittle and i dont think they are available from rimmers now, so dont over tighten them unnecessarily. overall a good result i think......

27th January 2022, 15:53	#87
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	've spent a while this week snagging. Car started, but was noisy, on 2 counts; 'exhaust' and rattles - these may be related. Obviously with 2nd hand heads there was some doubt nagging me about them, and I know I had put the exhaust gasket on the rear instead of the front downpipe. Plus a myriad of minor 'little things, to tidy up the bay. Anyway, after half a day I was now uncertain that the timing belt was on the right tooth, so I did a partial strip down to check, with much reading of posts on this forum as well. To cut a long story short, I was pointed to a post about the timing marks, with a Rover amendment that said fitters were to disregard the butterfly mark setting with the timing belt pulley. So, I set the ancillary belt pulley to the SAFE mark, inserted the locking pin, ignored the butterfly mark, and refitted the belt, and re-assembled. I must admit this time it was much better. Still a noisy 'exhaust' sound; later i had another go with the gasket etc and this did improve. I must get a new gasket though. But the engine ran a lot better with the odd rattle and revs a little high. I let it run and it got quieter and smoother. Not quite perfect, but I reckon an engine flush and oil change will improve it. I checked for fault codes with my Foxwell code reader, all ok. But as I was tidying up my tools, the engine stalled. I now have 2 fault codes - P0108, P0131. Any thoughts on this?

9th February 2022, 09:26	#90
StewartIngram Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.5 V6 auto Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chatteris, Cambridgeshire Posts: 902 Thanks: 320 Thanked 159 Times in 127 Posts	Basically I'm up and running, but got post operation trauma lol! Having done the rebuild I suppose you could say I'm still dealing with snagging faults, though not necessarily related directly to the rebuild. I'll list the (possibly) relevant bits, some of which have developed since the rebuild. Exhaust. When fitting the gasket on the downpipe, I broke a stud. So there is a bit of a blow there. I actually managed to get a pair of new/unused manifolds for £30, so that will be sorted soon, but I noticed the centre exhaust section was starting to get holes at the rear join. So I have a replacement pipe coming, and I'll deal with this all at once. Misfire. I had at first an intermittent misfire, whiich eventually developed into a fault on cyl 6. Also, a number of injector connectors had damaged wiring at the connectors, which I resoldered (bit of a bodge really). So I have sourced replacements and fitted them, I'm satisfied with them now. However, I've now gone through a complete failure of ign coil 6, which I've replaced with a known good one (tested in another cylinder). She now fires on all 6, but with a bit of harsh vibration through the body. (This could be because part of the lpg system is vibrating on the body - awaiting some small olives in the post and will soon be sorted). However, intermittenly the engine light comes on, and always gives codes P0276 & P0306, referring to injector circuit 6 low and cyl 6 misfire. I've searched the forum about that, & found other replies, but no real conclusion. Could this be fuel pressure at No.6 or injector fault, maybe a vac pipe leaking there? Message display on the dash. I've noticed this because of the engine light/message coming up frequently. From 'cold' it starts up normally. Sometimes with the odd vertical line /gap but not often. I've been checking mpg as well so used it a lot. After a while, the display shrinks, to the right, then gets smaller, and disappears. I can live with it until all else is done, but why does it happen, is it related?