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22nd December 2014, 19:36 | #11 |
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Dear Dan
Although I didn't mentioned it above, I did change the circular inner wing mount at the same time as the hydramount - it is not cheap (about 90 pounds from Rimmers). It is fairly easy to do once you have the hydramount removed - four bolts. I would encourage you to try this job yourself - good tools make it a lot easier- a trolley jack is almost essential , and I have a selection of long aviation spanners and flexible head ratchet spanners that makes undoing/tightening a lot of the awkward to access bolts in this job a lot easier. A breaker bar to crack the bolts during removal also came in handy. Pete |
22nd December 2014, 23:18 | #12 |
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I'm changing the hydramount for a customer in the New Year, I'll drive the car first, and post feedback on the change it's made.
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23rd December 2014, 11:04 | #13 |
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23rd December 2014, 11:11 | #14 |
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23rd December 2014, 15:05 | #15 | |
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Quote:
Do you think the extra circular inner wind mount makes a lot of difference if changed with the Hydramount? Or is it more a belt and braces thing as you are there? Thanks Andrew Last edited by first-things-first; 23rd December 2014 at 15:06.. Reason: Emphasising quote |
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23rd December 2014, 15:38 | #16 | |
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Quote:
damping effect to the Hydramount and, if doing its job, will also prevent the engine vibrations from being transmitted to the inner O/S wing. This does not prove that the Hydramount is not faulty however so you should start with that first unless you can actually see damage on the secondary mount.A faulty Hydramount allows excessive engine movement which resonates through the car frame to the steering wheel and seats. In my case the secondary mount was perfectly preventing vibrations in the O/S inner wing but the Hydramount had dried out and stiffened with age allowing the resonance to transfer through the car frame. The difference with a new unit has transformed the feel of the car. Last edited by wuzerk; 23rd December 2014 at 15:42.. |
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23rd December 2014, 15:45 | #17 | |
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Quote:
Belt and braces really- I think I read somewhere on here that replacing both parts gave a better result, at least for one member. If funds are tight, try the hydramount first, as many folks have reported a good improvement just replacing the hydramount alone. Pete |
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23rd December 2014, 16:38 | #18 | |
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I was asking about no. 20 - "Absorber-dynamic right hand side-engine mounting" hopefully is not quite so liable to fail? Best Regards Andrew Thanks you Pete for the response. Sounds a good plan do the two with obvious age (no. 19 above and Hydramount), then inspect the no. 20 mount and change if still unhappy. Did you guys get the Hydramount from DMGRS? Is that a genuine one or a new Chinese MG version? Last edited by Dragrad; 14th April 2015 at 23:34.. Reason: Consecutive posts - Use the edit ;-) |
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23rd December 2014, 17:37 | #19 |
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Dear Andrew
I got the hydramount (Item 1 in the Rimmers picture) from DMGRS - not sure of origin, but it looks good quality and identical to the original Rover one I took off the car. Perhaps Mat can comment. Item 20 is the metal baseplate the hydramount sits in on the diesel and should not need replacing - it has a cut out in the side facing the engine, but I cannot see what can wear out or split on this part. So, I would suggest doing the hydramount rubber (Item 1 on the Rimmers picture), and item 19 (inner wing tie rod) if the rubber centre on it seems perished, split or hardened. The hydramount rubber (Item 1) has a metal cup on the bottom that seats in the casting (item 20), that is integral to the hydramout, and not a separate item. I hope this clarifies things. Pete |
23rd December 2014, 18:28 | #20 |
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Many thanks Pete. I mistook the circular reference for you changing the hydramount cup (as it says it is a 'dynamic' mount).
Yours and wuzerk's posts clears it up. My comment on the hydramount was just to confirm suitability for the dizzles as the lower mount he sells fits but is not the same type as petrol and dizzle different. As you say Mat should clear it up. |
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