help!! WET floor drivers side and behind seat :( - Page 2

petergw60 · 18th November 2010, 23:02

Hi. I have recently had the same problem. The only sure way of sorting this out is to remove the carpet which is not easy. Took me about a day in the end. It is very heavy when wet and the amount of water still left in the car was quite large. I used a wet/dry vacuum to remove as much of the water from the car and carpet and pressed towels into the foam backing of the carpet. It took about 2 weeks to dry enough before refitting. Water came in due to blocked plenums and entered through the clutch hydraulic line grommet which had not been correctly fitted when this was replaced. Water also damaged the air bag sensor under the carpet so that had to be replaced. Also, I seem to have managed to stiff the satnav computer when disconnecting the battery at some point (make sure you let the red light go out on the unit before disconnecting the battery - I was sure I had each time but since I was connecting and disconnecting the battery quite a few times I must have not done so). To cap it all, after putting it all back together, drove car out of the garage and heard a loud twang - front spring had broken!

All sorted now and carpet dry. Just have to save up for the double din unit from radioguy to replace my original hi-line system to sort out the sat-nav. There is always soemthing to do!

mattyjones_1989 · 22nd November 2010, 14:14

just removed dooor trim and yes the under foam is drenched!!! but whats worryeing me more is the coolant is being lost rapidly, tryed rad weld but i very much doubt it will do anything. looks like iv bought another car thats knackered!! is it a simple job to sort this out??? everytime i top up coolant itss just going to come into the cab isnt it

not good

sturmovik · 22nd November 2010, 16:19

Radweld is a bit drastic, but is surprisingly effective. Hope it does the trick for you.

Kevin

Greeners · 22nd November 2010, 16:27

You need to take the carpet out, as the side impact sensor is sitting in a puddle and will eventually throw up a ABS fault.

It sounds like the matrix has failed more then anything

rovertoyou · 12th November 2018, 10:19

As I've said a bit earlier I have serious water ingress on the driver's side (driver's seat floor and rear passenger seat floor). Having never tackled the plenum blockage problem before I've been reading up and plan to do it tomorrow after I've been to B&Q for a plumber's spring pipe and a piece of tubing!

It's just a query re the removal of the shield panel tray or scuttle to gain access to the chamber. Having removed the rear clips is it easy to slide a screwdriver in at the front to then start sliding the tray out? I can't quite see where to stick the screwdriver in to loosen the tray...

Lee T · 12th November 2018, 10:25

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=67019
This may help.

75c · 12th November 2018, 11:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by sturmovik

Radweld is a bit drastic, but is surprisingly effective. Hope it does the trick for you.

Radweld? Cyanide for cars.

Rover 75 Tourer · 12th November 2018, 23:23

Found the tube which carries the wireing loom from the rear o/s wheel arch under the rear seat had over time had got blocked with road muck.This had allowed the tube to rust through on the underside and allow water into the rear footwell. Used high expansion foam to fill the tube and sealed the tube under the wheel arch with a mastic sealer.Now dry

Arctic · 13th November 2018, 08:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by rovertoyou

As I've said a bit earlier I have serious water ingress on the driver's side (driver's seat floor and rear passenger seat floor). Having never tackled the plenum blockage problem before I've been reading up and plan to do it tomorrow after I've been to B&Q for a plumber's spring pipe and a piece of tubing!

Quote:

It's just a query re the removal of the shield panel tray or scuttle to gain access to the chamber. Having removed the rear clips is it easy to slide a screwdriver in at the front to then start sliding the tray out? I can't quite see where to stick the screwdriver in to loosen the tray...

Hi Michael
Once you have removed the plenum tray which is very easy, make sure you add the spy hole mod to the tray, that way you will not have to keep removing when you check it a least once a month

link below for spy hole mod.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&postcount=21

http://youtu.be/9Hw2SMBPU48

Also check this link out if you have a sunroof.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=125864

I would say start your own thread as this one is now 8 years old

Dawn · 14th November 2018, 06:24

Pack under the carpet with old towels. They soak it up wonderfully. Are you sure the water loss coincides with the water in the car? I had two seperate issues with my 1.8. Tou should tell by the colour if its coolant, though. Better to replace the matrix rhan Radweld if you're 100% sure - those products can cause issues in some engines.

22nd November 2010, 16:27	#14
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	You need to take the carpet out, as the side impact sensor is sitting in a puddle and will eventually throw up a ABS fault. It sounds like the matrix has failed more then anything __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

12th November 2018, 10:19	#15
rovertoyou Newbie Rover 75 and MG ZT Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Wimborne Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	removing shield panel tray/scuttle As I've said a bit earlier I have serious water ingress on the driver's side (driver's seat floor and rear passenger seat floor). Having never tackled the plenum blockage problem before I've been reading up and plan to do it tomorrow after I've been to B&Q for a plumber's spring pipe and a piece of tubing! It's just a query re the removal of the shield panel tray or scuttle to gain access to the chamber. Having removed the rear clips is it easy to slide a screwdriver in at the front to then start sliding the tray out? I can't quite see where to stick the screwdriver in to loosen the tray...

12th November 2018, 10:25	#16
Lee T Gets stuck in MG ZT Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Liverpool Posts: 851 Thanks: 180 Thanked 248 Times in 189 Posts	https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=67019 This may help. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

12th November 2018, 23:23	#18
Rover 75 Tourer Avid contributor Rover 75 tourers(4)400turs(3 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Largs Posts: 219 Thanks: 3 Thanked 67 Times in 56 Posts	Water in rear footwell Found the tube which carries the wireing loom from the rear o/s wheel arch under the rear seat had over time had got blocked with road muck.This had allowed the tube to rust through on the underside and allow water into the rear footwell. Used high expansion foam to fill the tube and sealed the tube under the wheel arch with a mastic sealer.Now dry

18th November 2010, 23:02	#11
petergw60 Regular poster Rover 75 Connoisseur SE CDT Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: St Ives Posts: 90 Thanks: 12 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Hi. I have recently had the same problem. The only sure way of sorting this out is to remove the carpet which is not easy. Took me about a day in the end. It is very heavy when wet and the amount of water still left in the car was quite large. I used a wet/dry vacuum to remove as much of the water from the car and carpet and pressed towels into the foam backing of the carpet. It took about 2 weeks to dry enough before refitting. Water came in due to blocked plenums and entered through the clutch hydraulic line grommet which had not been correctly fitted when this was replaced. Water also damaged the air bag sensor under the carpet so that had to be replaced. Also, I seem to have managed to stiff the satnav computer when disconnecting the battery at some point (make sure you let the red light go out on the unit before disconnecting the battery - I was sure I had each time but since I was connecting and disconnecting the battery quite a few times I must have not done so). To cap it all, after putting it all back together, drove car out of the garage and heard a loud twang - front spring had broken! All sorted now and carpet dry. Just have to save up for the double din unit from radioguy to replace my original hi-line system to sort out the sat-nav. There is always soemthing to do!

22nd November 2010, 14:14	#12
mattyjones_1989 Newbie rover 75 classic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: grimsby Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	just removed dooor trim and yes the under foam is drenched!!! but whats worryeing me more is the coolant is being lost rapidly, tryed rad weld but i very much doubt it will do anything. looks like iv bought another car thats knackered!! is it a simple job to sort this out??? everytime i top up coolant itss just going to come into the cab isnt it not good

22nd November 2010, 16:19	#13
sturmovik Avid contributor Rover 75 CDTI saloon Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SE London Posts: 134 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Radweld is a bit drastic, but is surprisingly effective. Hope it does the trick for you. Kevin

14th November 2018, 06:24	#20
Dawn I really should get out more....... MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016 Location: Ilkeston, Derbys Posts: 2,743 Thanks: 285 Thanked 1,128 Times in 504 Posts	Pack under the carpet with old towels. They soak it up wonderfully. Are you sure the water loss coincides with the water in the car? I had two seperate issues with my 1.8. Tou should tell by the colour if its coolant, though. Better to replace the matrix rhan Radweld if you're 100% sure - those products can cause issues in some engines.