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Old 8th June 2014, 10:10   #31
Avulon
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Ok, how's this for an 'out there' suggestion. The old 820 only had one hydraulic reservoir for both clutch and brakes. The take off for the clutch was higher than for the brakes so no danger of a leaking clutch system disabling the brakes. How about using one of these reservoirs for the 75 in place of the normal brake reservoir ?
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Old 8th June 2014, 10:19   #32
HarryM1BYT
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now fitted and working all is ok clutch is allot lighter ans smoother fairly easy to fit no real difference there pre filled and pumped befour i fitted it and have not had to bleed it will see how it goes over the next few days


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I'm certainly looking at this version with more interest, if the price is right. What was holding me back on the other metal version, was the pipework and risk of the copper fracturing.

One part is puzzling me - The brass around the push rod looks as if it has been designed for a dust cover to be fitted, to keep dirt out.
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Old 8th June 2014, 10:28   #33
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I've found that the main problem with installing a remote reservoir for the clutch system is finding a good route for the hose from the master to the under-bonnet tank. The rest of it is easy enough, but I'm just waiting for someone to tell me the obvious way to do it without drilling a hole in the bulkhead. Maybe there isn't one.

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Old 8th June 2014, 11:36   #34
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Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT View Post
I'm certainly looking at this version with more interest, if the price is right. What was holding me back on the other metal version, was the pipework and risk of the copper fracturing.

One part is puzzling me - The brass around the push rod looks as if it has been designed for a dust cover to be fitted, to keep dirt out.
hi as this one is the first and only the development one i will sort a rubber boot out for it as i think it will need one as for the price we haven't worked that one out yet but it will be a reasonable price


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Old 8th June 2014, 13:00   #35
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I've found that the main problem with installing a remote reservoir for the clutch system is finding a good route for the hose from the master to the under-bonnet tank. The rest of it is easy enough, but I'm just waiting for someone to tell me the obvious way to do it without drilling a hole in the bulkhead. Maybe there isn't one.

TC
I don't think there is a route, the link pipe really needs not to have a continuous fall from cylinder to cylinder, to avoid air locks. I still think the only way is to mount the second cylinder in the dash somewhere, maybe alongside the radio, or etc..
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Old 8th June 2014, 17:03   #36
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now done a 250 mile drive been stuck in traffic and no problems even forgot i had fitted it works brilliant going to get it into production asap


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Old 8th June 2014, 17:05   #37
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I don't think there is a route, the link pipe really needs not to have a continuous fall from cylinder to cylinder, to avoid air locks.
I think air traps can be overcome at filling time, it shouldn't be that difficult to vent the air during the first fill. After that you just have to ensure the reservoir level is maintained, especially if a clutch bleeding routine is adopted.

Just had a thought, is there a sunroof drain hole in the side of driver's footwell? Or maybe a route following the bonnet release cable?

TC
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Old 8th June 2014, 17:14   #38
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Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
I think air traps can be overcome at filling time, it shouldn't be that difficult to vent the air during the first fill. After that you just have to ensure the reservoir level is maintained, especially if a clutch bleeding routine is adopted.

Just had a thought, is there a sunroof drain hole in the side of driver's footwell? Or maybe a route following the bonnet release cable?

TC
There is a grommet available beside where the bonnet cable goes as that's where I routed my boost gauge pipe work.

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Old 8th June 2014, 23:04   #39
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Photo cheers. The bonnet cable grommet looks a possibility, but I suspect the hole would need enlarging to take the plastic pipe. Maybe drill a hole beneath this one? The hose I'm using is 11mm OD, so it'll have to be at least 13mm diameter to get a grommet in as well.

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Old 10th June 2014, 20:59   #40
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Very interested in the metal master cylinder, hopefully you'll be fitting them sooner rather than later as my master need replacing soon.
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