My new project: A Mk11 MG ZT-T 1.8T. - Page 6

Abott10 · 29th May 2016, 15:33

Time to fit the twin-tone Horns sub-loom from and early ZT/75. I carefully removed this sub-loom from a breaker yard car sometime last year. Connected both it and the 400 and 500 htz Twin Horns and plugged it in. A quick test press of the horn button and this ZT-T will have a classier twin-tone blast ..

So now, I can fix it behind the Slam Panel as this needs to come off to fit the replacement Radiator Fan and Intercooler.

I can then turn my attention to this bodged top mount ( driver's side ) radiator fixing. :~

I will need to remove that broken threaded remains of the old fixing bolt.

Once I had carefully removed the Slam Panel after disconnecting all the gubbins attached to it, I tackled the task of drilling out that bodged bolt.

I used four sizes of Drill Bits to progressively enlarged the holes as I drilled down through the sheered bolt from below. Then, with just a thin shell of threads left in the square shaped captive nut, it's welded to the underside of the Slam Panel, I used some thin needle-nosed pliers to tease out those remaining threads.

Lovel · 30th May 2016, 07:26

While looking closely at an MG6 yesterday at the SARR meeting, I noticed there was an additional casting in the cylinder head, is it an EGR type of device that you have just blanked off or is it an oil supply?

Abott10 · 30th May 2016, 11:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovel

While looking closely at an MG6 yesterday at the SARR meeting, I noticed there was an additional casting in the cylinder head, is it an EGR type of device that you have just blanked off or is it an oil supply?

Yes, I forget the correct name for it but it is some form of Emission Control ..

. The previous owner of this car which I drove before it was written off, told me about that and to simply blank it off.

I shaped a small oval of stout Aluminium sheet to blank it off. I still have that device I removed from the engine. Big black, plastic ugly thing with long pipes and stuff and I do not want all that on my engine ...

He also told me that the Chinese used a high pressure casting process for these engine parts whereas Longbridge used low pressure casting.

Lovel · 30th May 2016, 12:45

Ok thanks, pity you couldn't incorporate the emissions circuit and the ECM, but that would probably be a wiring job and/or front harness and also T5 would be required to programme it if it could? I believe the MG6 is claimed to have better fuel consumption, this would be a driver for using the complete system if at all possible.

Yes the high pressure casting process and the additional reinforcing ribs on the block coupled with higher clamping force at the cylinder head joint makes we want to source one of these engines too, but that's very unlikely given that there may be only a handful (seen 1 at the most) of MG6 up my way. Your fortunate to be living close to these type opportunities, however my sleepy hollow part of the world still has an appeal to me albeit without projects that come up very often.

From what I saw yesterday, I think the outlet flange from the turbo exhaust manifold points in a different direction, if this is the case then maybe you should have held onto the turbo, but perhaps not ?

Abott10 · 30th May 2016, 13:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovel

From what I saw yesterday, I think the outlet flange from the turbo exhaust manifold points in a different direction, if this is the case then maybe you should have held onto the turbo, but perhaps not ?

Apart from the additional stud hole on the MG6 Exhaust Manifold, it is identical to the MG-Rover 1.8t version. All other dimensions, angles etc the same and although I have only had the engine running for a few minutes, that was long enough to hear the Turbocharger spinning up nicely.

Fitting the MG6's Ex-Manifold to the Rover Garret Turbocharger on this project was less difficult than I had anticipated. A doddle in fact. Easiest one I've ever fitted to any 1.8t K-Series... done three so far.

The Turbocharger on the MG6 looks very similar to the Garret one but, has a Mitsubishi Logo on the manufacturer's plate.

Thomas · 31st May 2016, 20:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovel

While looking closely at an MG6 yesterday at the SARR meeting, I noticed there was an additional casting in the cylinder head, is it an EGR type of device that you have just blanked off or is it an oil supply?

It was good to meet up with you again Gary, let me know how you get on with the 800!

Abott10 · 19th July 2016, 23:59

Was at last able to complete the reassembly of the front end following replacing the holed Radiator with a new one. Actually, the bumper is held by only a couple of bolts. I will adjust to close the gaps and fit the remaining bumper fixing bolts. I tested all the Lights, both Horns and Fan operations. All AOK.

Much time was devoted to cleaning up the numerous female thread mounting locations and selecting clean Bolts with captive washers. Used some of those to replace any corroded originals removed. That was most of them.

Tomorrow I will refit the PRT and all the various connecting hoses. I will check to see if there is an additional Thermostat in the original location housing behind the engine. Just in case. I do not want the experience some unfortunate owners have suffered.

Made a start on removing the badly corroded and scored front brake discs and pads to this ZT-T ... that only at the crack of 8pm when the sun noi longer scorched everything. Even so, the heat made the salty sweat reaching my eyes stinging so frequent cold water face washes were the order of the ... evening.

I learned long ago that it is essential to have a scrupulously clean Brake Disc to Hub interface. ## With that in mind I spent some time thoroughly cleaning up the Hub's face with various shaped Wire Brushes in my old B & D Electric Drill and the hub cleaned up like new. I used a very weak Fairy Liquid Dishwasher solution in a mist sprayer as a cleaning agent. That worked well with the wire brushes. Then wiped the newly arrived QH Brake discs with a rag lightly soaked in RON 75 to remove the protective coating on the discs. Two sets of ZT Front Discs ( QH Brand ) and two sets of Brembo Front Pads set me back a total £89 posted.

The attached images show what was involved. Bad light stopped play about 9:45 pm.

## Newly fitted Brake Discs are often blamed as faulty when they "warp" soon after fitting. The real blame is sometimes due to poor cleaning of that Disc-Hub interface. Even a grain of sand or piece of road filth trapped between that interface can ruin even the best Brake Discs in no time.

Abott10 · 9th May 2017, 00:32

The non-start problem has been rectified. See this thread for what caused the non-start issues. Mainly disassembled In-Tank Filter components when PO drained the tank via the Fuel Filter Access area under rear seat :~

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=266414

Now a few final checks prior to getting ready for the MoT. Engine nicely warmed up now and running like a 21,000 mile MG6 Engine should. Then the the ABS warning light stays on.

Checked the voltage supply to and integrity of both front wheel ABS sensors. Perfect values. So they're OK. Will check the rear ABS Sensor values later. Then noticed two brake discs on the largely unseen fence side of the car were corroded. Take car for a brief run to clean them up with ABS Fault repeated on the Intruments. After first serious brake application, the ABS warning light went out.

After being inactive on SORN since October 2015, this car is now up and running very nicely and passed the MoT today.

So, as well as other smaller renewals, new clutch, clutch slave cylinder and above all, low mileage MG6 1.8t engine, job 99% done. I bought a set of front and rear discs and pads for it a year ago and only fitted the fronts back then. I will fit the new rear discs and pads tomorrow as the originals although not worn, have suffered from lack of use corrosion issues.

That MG6 engine pulls very nicely. The car drives like anew one. £280 VED is a bit of a body blow.

29th May 2016, 15:33	#51
Abott10 * Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 227 Thanks: 1,275 Thanked 1,917 Times in 1,328 Posts	Found It! Time to fit the twin-tone Horns sub-loom from and early ZT/75. I carefully removed this sub-loom from a breaker yard car sometime last year. Connected both it and the 400 and 500 htz Twin Horns and plugged it in. A quick test press of the horn button and this ZT-T will have a classier twin-tone blast .. So now, I can fix it behind the Slam Panel as this needs to come off to fit the replacement Radiator Fan and Intercooler. I can then turn my attention to this bodged top mount ( driver's side ) radiator fixing. :~ I will need to remove that broken threaded remains of the old fixing bolt. Once I had carefully removed the Slam Panel after disconnecting all the gubbins attached to it, I tackled the task of drilling out that bodged bolt. I used four sizes of Drill Bits to progressively enlarged the holes as I drilled down through the sheered bolt from below. Then, with just a thin shell of threads left in the square shaped captive nut, it's welded to the underside of the Slam Panel, I used some thin needle-nosed pliers to tease out those remaining threads.

30th May 2016, 12:45	#54
Lovel I really should get out more....... P6B, L550, Imp, F56, Commando Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 2,886 Thanks: 352 Thanked 677 Times in 440 Posts	Ok thanks, pity you couldn't incorporate the emissions circuit and the ECM, but that would probably be a wiring job and/or front harness and also T5 would be required to programme it if it could? I believe the MG6 is claimed to have better fuel consumption, this would be a driver for using the complete system if at all possible. Yes the high pressure casting process and the additional reinforcing ribs on the block coupled with higher clamping force at the cylinder head joint makes we want to source one of these engines too, but that's very unlikely given that there may be only a handful (seen 1 at the most) of MG6 up my way. Your fortunate to be living close to these type opportunities, however my sleepy hollow part of the world still has an appeal to me albeit without projects that come up very often. From what I saw yesterday, I think the outlet flange from the turbo exhaust manifold points in a different direction, if this is the case then maybe you should have held onto the turbo, but perhaps not ? Last edited by Lovel; 30th May 2016 at 12:55..

9th May 2017, 00:32	#58
Abott10 * Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 227 Thanks: 1,275 Thanked 1,917 Times in 1,328 Posts	MoT Passed ... now my daily driver. The non-start problem has been rectified. See this thread for what caused the non-start issues. Mainly disassembled In-Tank Filter components when PO drained the tank via the Fuel Filter Access area under rear seat :~ https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=266414 Now a few final checks prior to getting ready for the MoT. Engine nicely warmed up now and running like a 21,000 mile MG6 Engine should. Then the the ABS warning light stays on. Checked the voltage supply to and integrity of both front wheel ABS sensors. Perfect values. So they're OK. Will check the rear ABS Sensor values later. Then noticed two brake discs on the largely unseen fence side of the car were corroded. Take car for a brief run to clean them up with ABS Fault repeated on the Intruments. After first serious brake application, the ABS warning light went out. After being inactive on SORN since October 2015, this car is now up and running very nicely and passed the MoT today. So, as well as other smaller renewals, new clutch, clutch slave cylinder and above all, low mileage MG6 1.8t engine, job 99% done. I bought a set of front and rear discs and pads for it a year ago and only fitted the fronts back then. I will fit the new rear discs and pads tomorrow as the originals although not worn, have suffered from lack of use corrosion issues. That MG6 engine pulls very nicely. The car drives like anew one. £280 VED is a bit of a body blow.