Question for experienced mig welders.

Abott10 · 4th August 2017, 10:09

QUESTION FOR EXPERIENCED MIG WELDERS:~

This is a skill that I would like to acquire, despite my advancing years. So would appreciate advice from specialists with MIG welding experience.

I'm tempted to buy something like this and get stuck in and learn "how to" from trial and error experience. So, would a relatively cheap unit like this be a suitable starting point? My son is also thinking along these lines and would like to acquire this useful DIY skill.

MIGHTYMIG100

Or, are there better options?

Any pointers here greatly appreciated. TIA.

Walter · 4th August 2017, 10:20

Wullie 480 might be able to help with your selection as he was shopping around for similar while back

EastPete · 4th August 2017, 11:56

I would avoid gasless MIG, personally - go for a welder that uses CO2/Argon mix (avoid pure CO2). Gasless seems attractive, but is more difficult to master and does not give such good welds.

Sealey stuff is usually quite good, and the Clarke machines that Machine Mart sell are OK for learning and doing small jobs. I had a SIP Migmate 150 when I did the MGB restoration, which was quite good, but the wire feed gave up eventually (a common problem on SIP machines apparently).

For basic learning, a Sealey or Clarke machine under 200 pounds will be fine.

For a full car restoration, I would invest a bit more in a better machine such as one from R-Tech. In fact, I am thinking of doing just that in the coming year, so I do have a nearly new Clarke MigPro90 that I will be selling - PM me if interested. I bought it just to finish off some work on the MGB after the SIP machine packed up. I am thinking of taking on a new restoration in the next year or two (Austin A40 or MGA are current options), so will want to upgrade my welder.

Pete

philm · 4th August 2017, 12:14

Agree with eastpete regarding avoiding gasless only for the fact of the price of fluxed wire,
At the end of the day it will come down to exactly what you want to do if you go with the gas option you need to find somewhere to obtain gas from (argon is the best) you can get small bottles from halfords/machine mart about £15 won't last long,otherwise you need to rent larger bottles some motor factors supply gas these do rental free.

http://www.sgsgases.co.uk/

probably others about.

Avulon · 4th August 2017, 12:49

My tuppence worth: 100A max is insufficient, it also doesn't state the minimum welding current, So you might find yourself blowing holes in body panels, yet unable to weld thicker pieces. Gasless is useful if welding outdoors, If you can weld insidoors then you could use either. A cheap unit is very difficult to learn on, the more expensive units have more features that can help you (wire feed related to current usage, controllable burn-back etc...). I'd certainly use gasless for practice as the small Argon/CO2 mix bottles don't last long at all - and even less if you don't know what you're doing. Best buy would be a unit that can do both gas and gasless (just remember to setup the polarity correctly for whichever you are using) and a welding current range from around 30A to 120A or 140A. I you can find one with some more advanced features it would certainly help you get productive faster - don't underestimate the cost of welding supplies that you are going to use up practicing!

P.S I definitely wouldn't buy the one you link to - it has only two power settings only.

spyder · 4th August 2017, 15:40

I went for a cheaper unit with variable feed and power. I would not bother with gasless at all. I use the 10Kg co2/aargon mix from a motor factors @ £50 for a refill and £90 deposit on first purchase-it lasted for a chassis weld on te 45 and a rather large set of driveway gates.

The sealy 140 is a slightly better unit as the cheaper Chinese ones have really cheap handsets so the gas is used up a lot quicker.

A decent automatic darkening helmet is a must. https://www.tradecounterdirect.com/p...9-13%20-%20Red

I used to have a big 3 phase unit and the cheaper ones are harder to use really. I have a very good arc welder and use them both as they have their good and bad points at times.

I have wired my garage and drive with a 16Amp plug (separate beakers)to use both units, 13amps do not last that long before either fuse or circuit breakers go.

Have fun learning though.

HarryM1BYT · 4th August 2017, 16:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyder

A decent automatic darkening helmet is a must. https://www.tradecounterdirect.com/p...9-13%20-%20Red

I agree and the more amateur you are, the more you will find use for an auto version. I struggled for years with the guessing where the tip was. I picked up a brand new auto at a car boot for £10, maybe 10 years ago - it made it so very much easier and no risk of 'welding flash'.

Avulon · 4th August 2017, 17:14

Arm and crotch protection and anywhere else a spark can go there are reason professional welders have leather caps with ear flaps - and yes, it does sting in the ear canal!

Les4048 · 4th August 2017, 17:14

Why not just hire one at first and see how you get on with it

impvan · 4th August 2017, 18:25

I'll echo what others have said - avoid gasless, avoid mini-bottles, get a decent power rating of 150A minimum

If you have a 'Hobbyweld' franchise nearby you can get big bottles for around 60 deposit and 40 per fill. I have mig gas, pure argon, oxygen and nitrogen bottles from Hobbyweld and have never had a problem.

Ensure your machine takes 0.6 wire, and that the feed and the tips all match that size - it's easier to get a weld going on thin sections with the finer wire.

Make sure the mains supply to your kit is as 'fat' as possible. If you need an extension, ensure it's 1.5mm cable and as short as you can get away with.

Finally, what transformed my SIP150 machine, was ditching the cheapy negative lead from the welder and making up a really thick one with a decent clamp.

4th August 2017, 10:09	#1
Abott10 * Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 227 Thanks: 1,275 Thanked 1,917 Times in 1,328 Posts	Question for experienced mig welders. QUESTION FOR EXPERIENCED MIG WELDERS:~ This is a skill that I would like to acquire, despite my advancing years. So would appreciate advice from specialists with MIG welding experience. I'm tempted to buy something like this and get stuck in and learn "how to" from trial and error experience. So, would a relatively cheap unit like this be a suitable starting point? My son is also thinking along these lines and would like to acquire this useful DIY skill. MIGHTYMIG100 Or, are there better options? Any pointers here greatly appreciated. TIA.

4th August 2017, 10:20	#2
Walter Posted a thing or two zebadee Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 1,481 Thanks: 135 Thanked 207 Times in 192 Posts	Try Wullie480 Wullie 480 might be able to help with your selection as he was shopping around for similar while back

4th August 2017, 12:49	#5
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	My tuppence worth: 100A max is insufficient, it also doesn't state the minimum welding current, So you might find yourself blowing holes in body panels, yet unable to weld thicker pieces. Gasless is useful if welding outdoors, If you can weld insidoors then you could use either. A cheap unit is very difficult to learn on, the more expensive units have more features that can help you (wire feed related to current usage, controllable burn-back etc...). I'd certainly use gasless for practice as the small Argon/CO2 mix bottles don't last long at all - and even less if you don't know what you're doing. Best buy would be a unit that can do both gas and gasless (just remember to setup the polarity correctly for whichever you are using) and a welding current range from around 30A to 120A or 140A. I you can find one with some more advanced features it would certainly help you get productive faster - don't underestimate the cost of welding supplies that you are going to use up practicing! P.S I definitely wouldn't buy the one you link to - it has only two power settings only. __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button Last edited by Avulon; 4th August 2017 at 12:52..

4th August 2017, 15:40	#6
spyder This is my second home 75 CDT Auto Tourer , Rover 45 , Astra, Zaffira, Chev Captiva Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Wilts Posts: 3,342 Thanks: 203 Thanked 436 Times in 360 Posts	I went for a cheaper unit with variable feed and power. I would not bother with gasless at all. I use the 10Kg co2/aargon mix from a motor factors @ £50 for a refill and £90 deposit on first purchase-it lasted for a chassis weld on te 45 and a rather large set of driveway gates. The sealy 140 is a slightly better unit as the cheaper Chinese ones have really cheap handsets so the gas is used up a lot quicker. A decent automatic darkening helmet is a must. https://www.tradecounterdirect.com/p...9-13%20-%20Red I used to have a big 3 phase unit and the cheaper ones are harder to use really. I have a very good arc welder and use them both as they have their good and bad points at times. I have wired my garage and drive with a 16Amp plug (separate beakers)to use both units, 13amps do not last that long before either fuse or circuit breakers go. Have fun learning though. __________________ Chrome skull caps, EGR cleaned (original housing), Mondeo lower mounting, 12V outlets in the armrest and tourer boot, cat fixed, working FBH, Lidl plenum covers, DD with reverse camera.New speakesr/Tweeters with MDF rings. wood dash, Memory leather seats, wooden finished steering and handbrake, Xenon headlights.

4th August 2017, 17:14	#8
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	Arm and crotch protection and anywhere else a spark can go there are reason professional welders have leather caps with ear flaps - and yes, it does sting in the ear canal! __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

4th August 2017, 11:56	#3
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	I would avoid gasless MIG, personally - go for a welder that uses CO2/Argon mix (avoid pure CO2). Gasless seems attractive, but is more difficult to master and does not give such good welds. Sealey stuff is usually quite good, and the Clarke machines that Machine Mart sell are OK for learning and doing small jobs. I had a SIP Migmate 150 when I did the MGB restoration, which was quite good, but the wire feed gave up eventually (a common problem on SIP machines apparently). For basic learning, a Sealey or Clarke machine under 200 pounds will be fine. For a full car restoration, I would invest a bit more in a better machine such as one from R-Tech. In fact, I am thinking of doing just that in the coming year, so I do have a nearly new Clarke MigPro90 that I will be selling - PM me if interested. I bought it just to finish off some work on the MGB after the SIP machine packed up. I am thinking of taking on a new restoration in the next year or two (Austin A40 or MGA are current options), so will want to upgrade my welder. Pete

4th August 2017, 12:14	#4
philm Loves to post rover 75 tourer Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: HEREFORD Posts: 269 Thanks: 7 Thanked 69 Times in 56 Posts	Agree with eastpete regarding avoiding gasless only for the fact of the price of fluxed wire, At the end of the day it will come down to exactly what you want to do if you go with the gas option you need to find somewhere to obtain gas from (argon is the best) you can get small bottles from halfords/machine mart about £15 won't last long,otherwise you need to rent larger bottles some motor factors supply gas these do rental free. http://www.sgsgases.co.uk/ probably others about.

4th August 2017, 17:14	#9
Les4048 This is my second home Rover 75 Tourer/ MG ZT-T 400 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lhanbryde Posts: 3,278 Thanks: 2,627 Thanked 1,523 Times in 869 Posts	Why not just hire one at first and see how you get on with it

4th August 2017, 18:25	#10
impvan Avid contributor ZT-T Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: In the trees, near Caernarfon... and frequently Aberdeenshire, and sometimes Romania.. Posts: 143 Thanks: 5 Thanked 36 Times in 29 Posts	I'll echo what others have said - avoid gasless, avoid mini-bottles, get a decent power rating of 150A minimum If you have a 'Hobbyweld' franchise nearby you can get big bottles for around 60 deposit and 40 per fill. I have mig gas, pure argon, oxygen and nitrogen bottles from Hobbyweld and have never had a problem. Ensure your machine takes 0.6 wire, and that the feed and the tips all match that size - it's easier to get a weld going on thin sections with the finer wire. Make sure the mains supply to your kit is as 'fat' as possible. If you need an extension, ensure it's 1.5mm cable and as short as you can get away with. Finally, what transformed my SIP150 machine, was ditching the cheapy negative lead from the welder and making up a really thick one with a decent clamp.