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Old 10th May 2021, 18:51   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
this one from Laser Tools looks promising particularly as it enables the use of a torque wrench.
You do realise Simon that using a torque wench with a crows foot is not accurate as you have a change in leverage !

As (CLF) Alan says sufficient tightness will easily be achieved with a good nip with a spanner particularly if coated with copper grease.
60 Nm is approximately 45 lb/ft and I can guarantee in everyday circumstances with a normal length 17 mm spanner and a straight pull everybody would easily exceed 60 nm

Last edited by TourerSteve; 10th May 2021 at 19:03..
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Old 10th May 2021, 19:11   #52
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You do realise Simon that using a torque wrench with a crow's foot is not accurate as you have a change in leverage !
Only if I increase the horizontal length which I doubt will be necessary. I'm planning to use the torque wrench as with a socket and extension which doesn't change the torque.

Anyway Steve, why are you raising this when you've said that you would be satisfied with an approximate torque applied by ordinary spanner?

Simon
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Old 10th May 2021, 19:27   #53
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Does anyone know what length the threaded section was on the original drop links , ie the ones the cars left the factory with?

Stan
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Old 10th May 2021, 20:45   #54
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Only if I increase the horizontal length which I doubt will be necessary. I'm planning to use the torque wrench as with a socket and extension which doesn't change the torque.

Anyway Steve, why are you raising this when you've said that you would be satisfied with an approximate torque applied by ordinary spanner?

Simon
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I only high lighted this as you have stated that you want to tighten the nut to 60 nm. By using any crows foot you are altering the horizontal length, from the centre of the nut you are tightening and without recalculating the torque value , “which you doubt will be necessary” , will not give you the correct torque which is no more accurate than spanner tightening

And yes , I would be satisfied with an approximate torque from an ordinary spanner on a non structural part of the suspension, which with my experience and competence , will be tightened sufficiently and be safe for use .
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Old 10th May 2021, 21:18   #55
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Dont forget Simon, tighten the top nut up before tightening the bottom nut. Tighten the bottom nut when the weight of the car is on the suspension.As Rover/MG indicated.
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Old 10th May 2021, 21:38   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TourerSteve View Post
Simon

I only high lighted this as you have stated that you want to tighten the nut to 60 nm. By using any crows foot you are altering the horizontal length, from the centre of the nut you are tightening and without recalculating the torque value , “which you doubt will be necessary” , will not give you the correct torque which is no more accurate than spanner tightening

And yes , I would be satisfied with an approximate torque from an ordinary spanner on a non structural part of the suspension, which with my experience and competence , will be tightened sufficiently and be safe for use .

No need for calculations if the crows foot is fitted at 90 deg to the torque wrench.


If it has to be used straight, i.e. it extends the length of the torque wrench then a recalculation is needed, I can't remember the formula off the top of my head but I would expect there to be an online chart somewhere.


Recalculate by all means if it is a safety component, but bearing in mind that a normal everyday short crows foot will add only about 3Lb/ft to a 20Lb/ft setting
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Old 10th May 2021, 21:55   #57
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Originally Posted by cbr1100xx View Post
Does anyone know what length the threaded section was on the original drop links , ie the ones the cars left the factory with?

Stan

Just measured a couple of links and they vary between 23.77mm and 23.9mm, so call it 24mm
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Old 11th May 2021, 00:09   #58
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Originally Posted by Ducati750cc View Post
No need for calculations if the crows foot is fitted at 90 deg to the torque wrench.
Thumbs up for this.

As for actually managing to torque this top nut in situ on the car...I imagine there's a possibility of bruised knuckles occurring
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Old 11th May 2021, 07:12   #59
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Originally Posted by Ducati750cc View Post
but bearing in mind that a normal everyday short crows foot will add only about 3Lb/ft to a 20Lb/ft setting
My point exactly, Simon as discounted spanner tightening as an approximate torque but using a crows foot has just the same potential
on a a nut that is not torque critical as long as it is sufficiently tight.
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Old 11th May 2021, 07:36   #60
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Originally Posted by cbr1100xx View Post
Does anyone know what length the threaded section was on the original drop links , ie the ones the cars left the factory with?
24mm on my original factory links Stan, as Ducati750cc has said. Why do you ask?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TourerSteve View Post
By using any crows foot you are altering the horizontal length ...
Yes, agreed, by the distance from the centre of the thread to the drive axis. This is probably going to be of the order of 10mm. The relevant length of my torque wrench is 450mm so, according to Norbar Ltd's formula, the tool's setting would need to be 58.69 to achieve the actual torque of 60 Nm. That degree of accuracy is impossible on my torque wrench scale so it's academic really.

When a torque figure is specified there's a reason for it and it's obviously good practice to observe that whenever possible. Whether it's 58 or 60 Nm, I know that I am as close as possible to the correct figure. With a spanner I wouldn't.
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Originally Posted by bl52krz View Post
Tighten the bottom nut when the weight of the car is on the suspension.As Rover/MG indicated.
That's specified in the section describing only anti-roll bar link renewal. I am, of course, changing the springs as well and in that section there's apparently no requirement to have the weight of the car on the suspension.

1st edit:
Having now refitted the first of my refurbished struts to the car, I have found out why MG Rover says that the bottom nut should be tightened with the weight of the car on the suspension. The reason is that with the road spring relaxed the link's bottom balljoint pin is 3 cm lower than the hole in the anti-roll bar! 2nd edit: This was possibly because I had forgotten that the disconnected anti-roll bar at the other side of the car was temporarily supported on blocks.
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Originally Posted by bl52krz View Post
Tighten the bottom nut when the weight of the car is on the suspension.As Rover/MG indicated.
On completion of the job and out of interest I tried this. It's only possible if the car is on ramps, on a garage lift or over a pit (the torque wrench can only be used vertically below the car).
3rd edit: Update: if you have enough socket extensions plus a universal joint and turn the steering to full lock, a torque wrench can be used on the anti-roll bar link bottom nut. After setting it to the specified 60 Nm with the car raised, once the weight of the car was on the suspension I checked to see if any further tightening was required as specified by MG Rover. It wasn't. There was absolutely no difference to the torque of that nut whether the suspension was compressed or not so make of that what you will!

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 6th June 2021 at 07:13.. Reason: Third revised reply to b152krz
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