Rear Coil Spring Change.

ardvark · 6th August 2021, 09:25

A tip that may help some.
When I changed the rear coil springs yesterday I only undid 3 bolts
The 2 on the drop link from the lower spring cup and the anti roll bar to move the roll bar down a bit.
The bottom bolt on the shock, that lets the bottom coil cup down enough to get the spring out.
The order I did it was :-
Slacken the wheel nuts
Jack the car up so the tire was off the ground
Take wheel off
Slacken bottom bolt on shock
Pulled the brake pipe from clip on the trailing arm
Take off top bolt from drop link
Take off bottom nut from drop link and take link off
Put jack under coil spring cup to take pressure off shock bottom bolt
Take bottom shock bolt off
Lower coil spring cup
I pushed the cup a bit further by hand to get the spring out
The spring was broken so the bottom rubber mount was still on the cup
If you look from below the spring cup you can see which way to twist the rubber mount to release it.
Once the rubber mounts have been mounted on the new spring the reassembly is the reverse to the disassembly
Make sure when you position the bottom rubber that the holes in the rubber match the drain holes in the bottom cup.

All this may have been said before but I thought I'd say my bit.
Any questions please ask and don't wonder.

AndrewJames · 6th August 2021, 09:45

Thanks. Useful guide for when the time comes. Should be even easier for me as I don't have droplinks/an ARB at the rear.

Is there any knack to the positioning of the top rubber mount or is it fairly self explanatory?

Arctic · 6th August 2021, 09:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by ardvark

A tip that may help some.
When I changed the rear coil springs yesterday I only undid 3 bolts
The 2 on the drop link from the lower spring cup and the anti roll bar to move the roll bar down a bit.
The bottom bolt on the shock, that lets the bottom coil cup down enough to get the spring out.
The order I did it was :-
Slacken the wheel nuts
Jack the car up so the tire was off the ground
Take wheel off
Slacken bottom bolt on shock
Pulled the brake pipe from clip on the trailing arm
Take off top bolt from drop link
Take off bottom nut from drop link and take link off
Put jack under coil spring cup to take pressure off shock bottom bolt
Take bottom shock bolt off
Lower coil spring cup
I pushed the cup a bit further by hand to get the spring out
The spring was broken so the bottom rubber mount was still on the cup
If you look from below the spring cup you can see which way to twist the rubber mount to release it.
Once the rubber mounts have been mounted on the new spring the reassembly is the reverse to the disassembly
Make sure when you position the bottom rubber that the holes in the rubber match the drain holes in the bottom cup.

All this may have been said before but I thought I'd say my bit.
Any questions please ask and don't wonder.

HI Al.
As above did mine the same on my tourer back in 2011

1

2

3

4

clean the cup out as well.

5

Where spring had broken.

6

7

Top rubber just sits in the upper cup, only the bottom requires turning into right place.

ardvark · 6th August 2021, 10:07

After you have taken the coil spring out and taken the top rubber off the old spring offer it up to the top cup.
The hole in the rubber mount should fit over the mount tube on the top cup. Gives you an idea how it should look.
Fit the rubber mounts to the coil before fitting the coil.
Make sure the end of the coil spring fits into end stop of the rubber mount properly
When you first fit the coil spring it looks a bit off as far as the rubber mount to the top cup.
But when you jack up the bottom cup up to fit the bottom bolt of the shock the rubber mount straightens itself up.
As long as the top steel mount fits inside the top rubber mount before you jack up the bottom cup you'll be ok

ardvark · 6th August 2021, 10:12

In a matter of fact Artic.
It was your post I read before changing the coils
Your post is better than mine because you have pic's

I posted my bit the encourage members to tackle the job themselves as appose to being ripped off but a garage.

roverbarmy · 6th August 2021, 10:19

You've all forgotten to mention the grunting and growling or was that just me?

ardvark · 6th August 2021, 10:22

Grunting, Growling, cuts and bruises and not forgetting aches and pains in you muscles the following day.

AndrewJames · 6th August 2021, 13:13

I don't want to jinx it but my 75 has been good to me for a little while now other than the fuel pump problem I had. If a rear spring is the next thing to go, I'll go into it grunting with confidence

Weirdly I have done two sets of front struts and springs (75 and Nissan) without incident but have never done any rears which would traditionally be considered the easier set for a beginner. Just haven't had to!

roverbarmy · 6th August 2021, 16:22

I had to take mine off to replace the upper arms.😉

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

6th August 2021, 09:25	#1
ardvark Al 75 CDTI Tourer Auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Studley Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 1 Thanked 69 Times in 48 Posts	Rear Coil Spring Change. A tip that may help some. When I changed the rear coil springs yesterday I only undid 3 bolts The 2 on the drop link from the lower spring cup and the anti roll bar to move the roll bar down a bit. The bottom bolt on the shock, that lets the bottom coil cup down enough to get the spring out. The order I did it was :- Slacken the wheel nuts Jack the car up so the tire was off the ground Take wheel off Slacken bottom bolt on shock Pulled the brake pipe from clip on the trailing arm Take off top bolt from drop link Take off bottom nut from drop link and take link off Put jack under coil spring cup to take pressure off shock bottom bolt Take bottom shock bolt off Lower coil spring cup I pushed the cup a bit further by hand to get the spring out The spring was broken so the bottom rubber mount was still on the cup If you look from below the spring cup you can see which way to twist the rubber mount to release it. Once the rubber mounts have been mounted on the new spring the reassembly is the reverse to the disassembly Make sure when you position the bottom rubber that the holes in the rubber match the drain holes in the bottom cup. All this may have been said before but I thought I'd say my bit. Any questions please ask and don't wonder. __________________ ARDVARK

6th August 2021, 10:07	#4
ardvark Al 75 CDTI Tourer Auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Studley Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 1 Thanked 69 Times in 48 Posts	After you have taken the coil spring out and taken the top rubber off the old spring offer it up to the top cup. The hole in the rubber mount should fit over the mount tube on the top cup. Gives you an idea how it should look. Fit the rubber mounts to the coil before fitting the coil. Make sure the end of the coil spring fits into end stop of the rubber mount properly When you first fit the coil spring it looks a bit off as far as the rubber mount to the top cup. But when you jack up the bottom cup up to fit the bottom bolt of the shock the rubber mount straightens itself up. As long as the top steel mount fits inside the top rubber mount before you jack up the bottom cup you'll be ok __________________ ARDVARK

6th August 2021, 10:12	#5
ardvark Al 75 CDTI Tourer Auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Studley Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 1 Thanked 69 Times in 48 Posts	In a matter of fact Artic. It was your post I read before changing the coils Your post is better than mine because you have pic's I posted my bit the encourage members to tackle the job themselves as appose to being ripped off but a garage. __________________ ARDVARK

6th August 2021, 10:19	#6
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	You've all forgotten to mention the grunting and growling or was that just me? __________________ Oil in my veins!

6th August 2021, 10:22	#7
ardvark Al 75 CDTI Tourer Auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Studley Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 1 Thanked 69 Times in 48 Posts	Grunting, Growling, cuts and bruises and not forgetting aches and pains in you muscles the following day. __________________ ARDVARK

6th August 2021, 09:45	#2
AndrewJames Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 291 Thanks: 133 Thanked 102 Times in 61 Posts	Thanks. Useful guide for when the time comes. Should be even easier for me as I don't have droplinks/an ARB at the rear. Is there any knack to the positioning of the top rubber mount or is it fairly self explanatory?

6th August 2021, 13:13	#8
AndrewJames Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 291 Thanks: 133 Thanked 102 Times in 61 Posts	I don't want to jinx it but my 75 has been good to me for a little while now other than the fuel pump problem I had. If a rear spring is the next thing to go, I'll go into it grunting with confidence Weirdly I have done two sets of front struts and springs (75 and Nissan) without incident but have never done any rears which would traditionally be considered the easier set for a beginner. Just haven't had to!

6th August 2021, 16:22	#9
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	I had to take mine off to replace the upper arms.😉 Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk __________________ Oil in my veins!