That lower rear engine Tie-Bar mounting. Questions.

Abott10 · 1st June 2018, 16:34

I think I need a couple of these for my higher mileage 1.8T ZT-Ts. Ebay and elsewhere list various versions for the Diesel, V6 and I.8.

Images all look the same so my question.

Are these Tie Bars Engine Specific? Rimmer Bros show this for the 1.8T :~

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101372

and this different Part Number for the Diesel.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101402

So another question comes to mind. Are the V6 or Diesel versions "stronger" or are there other differences too? I would prefer the strongest if the other dimensions are all the same.

HarryM1BYT · 1st June 2018, 17:32

They are the same bracket, but the composition of the rubber varies to account for the difference in torque of each engine. You need the correct one..

Southcoast · 1st June 2018, 18:53

Bit cheaper here.

Arctic · 2nd June 2018, 01:00

Hi John.
The lower engine mounts are different for each model as below.

1.8 will have the letter M stamped on it.
2.0 2.5 have the letter P stamped on it
2.0 Diesel will the letter T stamped on it.

lots of info in this weekend reading thread

Arctic

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=130209

Personally with the petrol engine I would go with power flex, and use the original centre out of your old mount.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerflex...cAAOSwYwJaA0fF

Arctic · 4th June 2018, 08:41

Hard to tell from the images I've seen but do those yellow bushes come as a two part to aid assembly, rather than needing a powerful press/vice to fit?[/QUOTE]Hi John.
The power flex insert is one piece and is not is two halves as some come.

You do not need a powerful press but a vice is needed to hold the original alloy part of the mount to which the power flex rubber mount is inserted, the old insert is easy removed.

You can pass an hacksaw through the gap in the mount and saw the inner alloy insert, this will allow you to bend the inner part inwards and the insert will drop out.

You also hammer it out as I have done in the past, but the above is easier, once you have it out the mount edges can be chamfered to aid the fitting of the power flex mount.

The yellow mount comes with a small sachet of grease this is smeared onto the mount and inside the alloy case this is then held in a vice and the power flex mount inserted/pushed through, use of a small cut down broom handle / piece of wood helps to push it through.

A little how to on my original thread will be available later Arctic.

Arctic · 5th June 2018, 15:25

HI John.
You will now need to grind down the small end on the leading edge which will knock on the bracket of the car.

1

2

3

4

I think it would be best to remove the bracket on the car and reduce that by at least minimum of 3mm

ceedy · 5th June 2018, 15:33

i used a cheepy ford one before , on my cdti with a synergy box , and it ripped it to bits inside a month ?

The Rovering Member · 5th June 2018, 20:39

I replaced mine at the weekend & the old one has those same hairline cracks. I bought one from DMGRS & there is a marked improvement in ride & smoothness of takeoff (fitted new drop links too).
I have been warned that the OEM tie-mounts don't last so we shall see.

Arctic · 5th June 2018, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGJohn

DOH! Too Late Arctic. Just back from a six mile run having fitted the modified Mondeo Tie Bar to my ZT-T 1.8T. So pleased with it I've already bought another for my other ZT-T 1.8T project car.

Some improvement but time will tell. So without having the material removed from the small end, will the same happen to my 1.8T ? Is there so much reduced clearance with the larger Ford item that metal to metal contact occurs at certain compression scenarios of the Tie Bar's bushes?

I will shave off the excess when the second one arrives and fit that. Then do the same to the original.

Quote:

At first glance, the freshly removed old OE Tie Bar [ marked with an M ] looked in good shape. Closer scrutiny revealed several hair line cracks in the main bush material which may open up in use

.

The attached images show the old Tie Bar and the new one fitted.

HI John.
Put a bar through the centre and watch those hair line cracks open up

1

2

From this photo you can see how it would be easier to grind down the bracket on the car as opposed to the alloy mount, which could compromise the mount ?

3

This mount was removed from the car as I was not happy with the vibration a genuine mount with letter t was added.

I am sure if the bracket was ground down it would sort out the vibration/ knocking on the bracket frame.

Arctic · 5th June 2018, 22:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Rovering Member

I replaced mine at the weekend & the old one has those same hairline cracks. I bought one from DMGRS & there is a marked improvement in ride & smoothness of takeoff (fitted new drop links too).

Quote:

I have been warned that the OEM tie-mounts don't last so we shall see.

Hi Gary.
A genuine OE mount with the letter T stamped on it will last at least 65000 miles or should do.

1

1st June 2018, 16:34	#1
Abott10 * Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 227 Thanks: 1,275 Thanked 1,917 Times in 1,328 Posts	That lower rear engine Tie-Bar mounting. Questions. I think I need a couple of these for my higher mileage 1.8T ZT-Ts. Ebay and elsewhere list various versions for the Diesel, V6 and I.8. Images all look the same so my question. Are these Tie Bars Engine Specific? Rimmer Bros show this for the 1.8T :~ https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101372 and this different Part Number for the Diesel. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101402 So another question comes to mind. Are the V6 or Diesel versions "stronger" or are there other differences too? I would prefer the strongest if the other dimensions are all the same.

1st June 2018, 17:32	#2
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	They are the same bracket, but the composition of the rubber varies to account for the difference in torque of each engine. You need the correct one.. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

2nd June 2018, 01:00	#4
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,714 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi John. The lower engine mounts are different for each model as below. 1.8 will have the letter M stamped on it. 2.0 2.5 have the letter P stamped on it 2.0 Diesel will the letter T stamped on it. lots of info in this weekend reading thread Arctic https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=130209 Personally with the petrol engine I would go with power flex, and use the original centre out of your old mount. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerflex...cAAOSwYwJaA0fF __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 2nd June 2018 at 01:08..

4th June 2018, 08:41	#5
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,714 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hard to tell from the images I've seen but do those yellow bushes come as a two part to aid assembly, rather than needing a powerful press/vice to fit?[/QUOTE]Hi John. The power flex insert is one piece and is not is two halves as some come. You do not need a powerful press but a vice is needed to hold the original alloy part of the mount to which the power flex rubber mount is inserted, the old insert is easy removed. You can pass an hacksaw through the gap in the mount and saw the inner alloy insert, this will allow you to bend the inner part inwards and the insert will drop out. You also hammer it out as I have done in the past, but the above is easier, once you have it out the mount edges can be chamfered to aid the fitting of the power flex mount. The yellow mount comes with a small sachet of grease this is smeared onto the mount and inside the alloy case this is then held in a vice and the power flex mount inserted/pushed through, use of a small cut down broom handle / piece of wood helps to push it through. A little how to on my original thread will be available later Arctic. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 4th June 2018 at 08:43..

5th June 2018, 15:25	#6
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,714 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	HI John. You will now need to grind down the small end on the leading edge which will knock on the bracket of the car. 1 2 3 4 I think it would be best to remove the bracket on the car and reduce that by at least minimum of 3mm __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 5th June 2018 at 15:39..

1st June 2018, 18:53	#3
Southcoast Regular poster Rover 75 Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: a Posts: 84 Thanks: 49 Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts	Bit cheaper here.

5th June 2018, 15:33	#7
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,076 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	i used a cheepy ford one before , on my cdti with a synergy box , and it ripped it to bits inside a month ? __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's

5th June 2018, 20:39	#8
The Rovering Member I really should get out more....... Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: London Posts: 2,956 Thanks: 263 Thanked 538 Times in 431 Posts	I replaced mine at the weekend & the old one has those same hairline cracks. I bought one from DMGRS & there is a marked improvement in ride & smoothness of takeoff (fitted new drop links too). I have been warned that the OEM tie-mounts don't last so we shall see. __________________ Reducing the size of my Rover fleet by adding a 75 to it.