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23rd November 2017, 20:05 | #7491 |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
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Replaced the tired gas struts on the bonnet, much safer now
Brian |
23rd November 2017, 21:04 | #7492 |
Premium Trader
Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Devon
Posts: 33,773
Thanks: 8,837
Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts
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Especially with Today's weather, its been blowing a gale down here!
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Lest we forget..
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24th November 2017, 11:57 | #7493 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 tourer Club CD/Limo Tints Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Meneac
Posts: 6,759
Thanks: 5,007
Thanked 1,609 Times in 869 Posts
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So how did you cure this niggly problem of stopping the door cards popping off?
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] "I started out with nothing, and Ive still got most of it left!" |
24th November 2017, 14:05 | #7494 |
Posted a thing or two
MGZT Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 1,281
Thanks: 1,738
Thanked 299 Times in 216 Posts
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Dealt with the rusty rear wheel drums, red oxide then satin black, amazing the car leaves the factory with unprotected metal but it was the same with the wifes 1999 R216. Chris.S.
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25th November 2017, 15:27 | #7495 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
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Quote:
Well I suppose I don't need to say what I did to the new car today, let's hope the SDB000880 and SFP100511 are better than the absolute garbage "Apec" discs and pads fitted two years ago Brian |
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25th November 2017, 16:07 | #7496 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Tourer & Arden Green Project Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ormskirk
Posts: 932
Thanks: 159
Thanked 200 Times in 155 Posts
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I regret chucking the original front disc's, when I see how shocking these have worn in 2 years. I thought Apec would be a safe bet, guess I will have to strip the front Mintex ones I have on and check they have not suffered a similar fate.
I try to pre-empt and replace parts to keep my car going, but the poor quality of replacement parts make me think original is better for as long as possible, the original discs looked fine when I chucked them. Guess you live and learn same goes for the original control arms and drop links. Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk |
25th November 2017, 19:33 | #7497 |
Avid contributor
mg zt cdti + 75 connie cdti Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: aberdeen
Posts: 200
Thanks: 90
Thanked 26 Times in 21 Posts
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Replaced cv joint anti roll bar link and damaged wheel rim due to pot hole incident last week,fitted in line stat but heater still blowing cold on passenger side.Checked operation of blend motor but it was ok.Will remove and clean matrix tomorrow.I then fitted the lower gearbox mount to my zt ,runs nice and smooth again
L |
26th November 2017, 15:07 | #7498 |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
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Replaced the worn rose joint on the nearside trailing arm, and yes the bolt was seized in the bush, and no I didn't cut it off
So after I had removed the road spring, it was evident there was considerable play in the old bush, judging by the knocking noises coming from it. Once it became obvious the bush was rotating with the bolt, I proceeded to remove the rubber boots from the joint, this allowed for some fairly brutal blows using a stout drift and mash hammer to be applied around the circumference of the joint tube. Plenty of penetrating oil applied at the top end of the bolt, and heat from a blowlamp, followed by more well placed blows, finally the nut was wound onto the bolt to the top of the thread, and carefully applied hammer blows saw the bolt begin to move. At this point, more penetrating oil was applied and the nut and bolt tightened drawing the bolt back into the bush. This was repeated until it was possible to drift out the old bolt. The trailing arm was cleaned around the parts where the bush is pressed in, then the old bush drawn out with the extractor tool, the trailing arm recess cleaned out and greased, then the new bush pulled in to place. A replacement bolt, with a liberal covering of Coppaslip was fitted, then the subframe lowered to allow the rear spring to be refitted. Everything nipped up, then off the axlestands and a run around the block, to settle the suspension, then up onto the ramps to tighten everything up to the correct torque. I'm going to take it out for a run once I've defrosted to see if the annoying thump bump has gone, and report back Brian |
26th November 2017, 16:18 | #7499 |
Regular poster
MG ZT-T Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Boston
Posts: 30
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
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12 months with thanks....
I have owned my ZTT for a year and it's time for a few thanks....
New clutch, parts from DMGRS and fitting by Andy WILLI Engine mount, part and fitting Andy again. Auto dipping mirror EBay and fitting by self. Leather electric seats - EBay, fitting by self, advice Ricksta and Marinabrian. Footwell lights - EBay, fitting by self as 'How to' Cam belts and service - parts from DMGRS and fitting by Brian Fairweather Autos, Boston Handbrake compensator - Artic and fitting by self Gold resistor - EBay and fitting by self O/s mirror - EBay and self And lots of other things as well Things still to do include VIS motors from Stocktake and wheels refurbed. What a great club excellent forum, How to's and advice great customer service from all mentioned with special thanks to my wife who puts up with me and this car of character (well that's what I call it). |
27th November 2017, 20:55 | #7500 |
Avid contributor
Rover 75 Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northampton
Posts: 156
Thanks: 9
Thanked 81 Times in 53 Posts
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Today I replaced the NS front indicator lens. Some know-nothing garage had replaced the radiator on the car not long before I bought it and managed to re-install the bumper with a huge panel gap and totally mangled the indicator. Spring clip broken off, held in place with a piece of doubled over gaffer tape. The ceramic connector was broken and sellotaped together! Bloomin' bodgers!
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