Houston I have a problem..... - Page 5

Rp61973 · 12th November 2018, 09:03

I managed to change the master cylinder yesterday with one of the LHD ones I bought from DMGRS. If you are a tall and well-built person like me, I would throughly recommend disconnecting the hydraulic connector in the engine bay so you can pull the old cylinder into the footwell and work on disconnecting it there. Otherwise you would need twelve inch long, thin, double-jointed digits!

It wasn't too much of a hard job. The trickiest bit by far was accessing the bolts holding the master cylinder - I achieved this with a slim 1/4" wrench and 8mm socket. Apart from that, quite straightforward despite the poor access. I m not sure how you could pull out the split pin from the HP hose, knock out the roll pin, remove the cylinder, replace with the new one and reverse the process without splitting the connector in the engine bay. The split pin of the old cylinder had corroded slightly and needed some serious pulling and twisting with pliers to remove it.

I took the opportunity to clean the clutch pedal pivot bush (top hat) and liberally grease it with some silicon grease. After bleeding the clutch action is smoother than it has ever been. The bite point is a nice way up the pedal.

Fingers crossed it stays like this for a while. If it doesn't, I will know that the slave is starting to weep and I will need to ask the nice Mr Willi to visit for an overhaul.

Now, just rear brakes, a brake bleed and a full service to do...

bl52krz · 12th November 2018, 19:45

Your last paragraph:- better if you do. Much better access.

HarryM1BYT · 12th November 2018, 20:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rp61973

I m not sure how you could pull out the split pin from the HP hose, knock out the roll pin, remove the cylinder, replace with the new one and reverse the process without splitting the connector in the engine bay.

That is very easy to do. You just release the pushrod and unbolt the master from the bulkhead. If you then grease the plastic pipe at the other side of the bulkhead, you can then pull the master cylinder back towards you - pipe sliding easily through the rubber sealing grommets.

A thin nail with a flat end, can then be used to tap the roll pin out and release the pipe from the master cylinder. Much easier than struggling to remove master plus its pipe.

Rp61973 · 12th November 2018, 21:38

I couldn't see there was that much slack on the hydraulic hose to pull the cylinder clear of the area directly under the pedals without uncoupling the hydraulic connector; two or three inches at best. The hydraulic connector takes seconds to uncouple.

You can then pull the master with hose attached into the drivers footwell and then change it over there. Piece of cake.

12th November 2018, 09:03	#41
Rp61973 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Classic Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Galleywood Posts: 374 Thanks: 80 Thanked 67 Times in 45 Posts	I managed to change the master cylinder yesterday with one of the LHD ones I bought from DMGRS. If you are a tall and well-built person like me, I would throughly recommend disconnecting the hydraulic connector in the engine bay so you can pull the old cylinder into the footwell and work on disconnecting it there. Otherwise you would need twelve inch long, thin, double-jointed digits! It wasn't too much of a hard job. The trickiest bit by far was accessing the bolts holding the master cylinder - I achieved this with a slim 1/4" wrench and 8mm socket. Apart from that, quite straightforward despite the poor access. I m not sure how you could pull out the split pin from the HP hose, knock out the roll pin, remove the cylinder, replace with the new one and reverse the process without splitting the connector in the engine bay. The split pin of the old cylinder had corroded slightly and needed some serious pulling and twisting with pliers to remove it. I took the opportunity to clean the clutch pedal pivot bush (top hat) and liberally grease it with some silicon grease. After bleeding the clutch action is smoother than it has ever been. The bite point is a nice way up the pedal. Fingers crossed it stays like this for a while. If it doesn't, I will know that the slave is starting to weep and I will need to ask the nice Mr Willi to visit for an overhaul. Now, just rear brakes, a brake bleed and a full service to do... __________________ 2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red

12th November 2018, 19:45	#42
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,392 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	Your last paragraph:- better if you do. Much better access. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

12th November 2018, 21:38	#44
Rp61973 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Classic Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Galleywood Posts: 374 Thanks: 80 Thanked 67 Times in 45 Posts	I couldn't see there was that much slack on the hydraulic hose to pull the cylinder clear of the area directly under the pedals without uncoupling the hydraulic connector; two or three inches at best. The hydraulic connector takes seconds to uncouple. You can then pull the master with hose attached into the drivers footwell and then change it over there. Piece of cake. __________________ 2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red