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26th December 2018, 10:27 | #41 |
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These are my thoughts as well, I have thought for some time now that the shoes felt as if they had no Grip to them.....Even after repeated adjustment and done as per the "Manual" I think the next step is to replace the shoe's which are of an unknown make to a set of TRW ones and see if that makes any different.
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26th December 2018, 12:00 | #42 | ||
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Original are available at Rimmer Bros, https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-SFS100190SLP But compare them to the TRW on the bay and the cost is half ? always make sure with the seller that you will receive TRW and not some replacement or equivalent to them. Couple of sellers below. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-...0/332474057633 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRW-Rear-...Y/153169099566
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26th December 2018, 12:14 | #43 |
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Rover 75 club se tourer CDT and a Connoisseur SE Diesel Auto Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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I tried pagid shoes as well but they still had not much ‘grip’ . I was sure that the handbrake was spot on when I bought my first 75 new all those years ago so genuine must be the answer but I didn’t want was to pay Rimmer’s prices and be wrong ! Jules sent a link to a seller on EBay and once purchased and fitted I was shocked at the improvement!
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26th December 2018, 12:53 | #44 |
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What I don't understand is how any of you ever managed to wear the shoes to such an extent that they had to be replaced.
How on earth did you do it.---( Unless you drove with the hand brake on.---) |
26th December 2018, 13:18 | #45 | ||
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It likely will need applying and driven slowly to clean the shoes and drums up, if the handbrake has never had much use. My experience of the 75 handbrake adjustment suggests that is the 3 notches is wrong and leaves too much play. The best way to adjust is with the adjuster fully tightened, maybe a good tap with a mallet to get the shoes fully centred, a final tighten, then back off. You then back it off a notch or two, just enough that you can easily turn the drum, but with still some definite rubbing of the drum as it is spun. Even mechanics get this wrong, no rubbing means a wide gap and a lot of play. Quote:
I have heard the complaint many times, where an owner has fixed and adjusted everything spot on and still had no useful result, despite new none OEM shoes. There are not many reasons to fit new shoes on the 75, they do not usually wear at all. So oil damaged, or the friction material coming off the shoes seem to be the only reasons for replacement. Once sorted, they need to be given a small amount of work to do, to keep them working 100%. That involves regular use where the handbrake is applied lightly gently for the last few yards as you come to a stop. That keeps drum rust at bay and the shoes clean.
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26th December 2018, 13:22 | #46 |
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A potential cause for replacement (am not saying that it happened in this case), would be the shoes sticking to the drum, and then delaminating when released. One of mine is missing about 10 mm at the end of one of my shoes due to this. I park on a level (and have an auto so I can use P quite safely) so when parked up at night, at home, I would leave the handbrake off. If you plan to leave the car parked up for any amount of time, for this reason I would suggest leaving the handbrake off and use wheel chocks instead to stop it moving.
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26th December 2018, 17:19 | #47 |
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Mine were replaced as the linings starting to come away from the shoes probably due to corrosion and I needed rear pads and discs at the same time so just got a set when I was in the motor factors. After that the handbrake needed constant attention to work but it lasted about a week and the car would roll back on my drive and on any hill. I struggled for years until I fitted the TRW shoes.
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26th December 2018, 18:43 | #48 |
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When I've fitted new shoes , I slacken the cable at the handbrake , fit the shoes and drums then adjust the shoes until they bind then I then tap the drum with a copper hammer. This centralises the shoes and then drum/disc is then free again and I keep repeating until tapping makes no difference and the drum can still be moved by hand . Then I adjust the handbrake to two to three clicks without the brakes dragging. Future adjustment is then just a couple of clicks at the drums when required .
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26th December 2018, 20:50 | #49 | |
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Quote:
A manual, left in gear is pretty much the same.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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26th December 2018, 21:34 | #50 | |
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Hand brakes, in very cold weather, have been known to freeze on. Be it the shoes are moist or there is an ingress of water into the cables. This ice is quickly removed as warm air from the engine and also heat from the discs starts to appear. ( only needs a degree or so of heat to unstick things. ) |
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