cdti coolant leaking very slow

[super s]

Hello everyone...

so i am now on a quest to find the leak, every 100 kms i have to top up the coolant...

it goes from the max mark to the min mark...

no coolant in footwells, no signs of coolant near or below cranckshaft pulley that it was changed 800 kms ago, nothing near pipes or hoses...

i suspect from the pressure cap but that also doesnt have signs of loosing coolant in the expansion tank ...

i hope its just the cap, but shouldn t i see a mark where it would loose or not?

temperature always fine, never lost any coolant except when changed the termostat nearly 3 years ago...

thnakds all ...

[Lovel]

Check at the front top of the engine where the water pipe joins there is a plastic housing with elastomer gasket that has been know to lose the squeeze and leak slowly.

See here.
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=136550

[super s]

thanks...

not seen nothing, had the engine cover removed and dont see any coolant sign...

its in the front isnt it?

waht about the cap, should it had signs near the expasion tank and cap or not?

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by super s

thanks...

not seen nothing, had the engine cover removed and dont see any coolant sign...

its in the front isnt it?

waht about the cap, should it had signs near the expasion tank and cap or not?

You really wont see anything easily as the fitting is partially hidden by the inlet manifold. The leaking coolant runs down the engine block and evaporates. Dried coolant stains can show up on the bottom of the AC compressor or the glow plug leads harness.

A leaking expansion tank cap would show signs of dried coolant residue around the throat of the tank. A tiny smear of silicon grease on the cap O-rings would not go a miss or perhaps Vaseline.

[super s]

thats what i thot about the cap, should see some signs of coolant around the expansion tank throat and i dont see nothing...

i will try carefully looking to the part you pointing me...

just need to take the engine cover again right?
or do you advice any tip more?

thanks lovel...

[Mike Noc]

Shine a torch down the inside of the offside wing and check the thermostat housing and water pump for leaks.

If it is a very slow leak then, as mentioned, it will evaporate off. An overnight cold pressure test may help locate it.

[super s]

the part i believe i have exclude it because i tried looking to it during an hour and nothing. boné dry in there...

the front part lovel told me i had not look to it properly enough...

the other thing remaining is just the cap but it would also show signs of coolant...

Thanks Mike...

[super s]

so, went found it...

is were lovel told me, very tiny leak there, however its not where it meets the engine block...

its in one of the arms of the part nr lr 006797 you gave and pointed me...

can anyone tell me if the arms have a oring inside that can be replaced?

or is just push and fit in the hoses and i can only solve the issue replacing the entire part???

thanks to all

[Mickyboy]

Hi Sergio
That's the water outlet pipe from the front of the engine block, seen quite a few leak from that location, if I can help mate you know where I am.

Mick

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by super s

so, went found it...

is were lovel told me, very tiny leak there, however its not where it meets the engine block...

its in one of the arms of the part nr lr 006797 you gave and pointed me...

can anyone tell me if the arms have a oring inside that can be replaced?

or is just push and fit in the hoses and i can only solve the issue replacing the entire part???

thanks to all

It is the female connectors on the ends of the hoses themselves that have O-rings fitted and not the stubs (arms). Always fit them with silicon grease or similar upon reassembly it makes removing them much easier. The o-ring can roll and therefore twist and leak if not lubricated during assembly. I don't know the o-ring part numbers as they are not available separately. However once you get apart remove the o-ring and measure, and perhaps obtain from local supplier if damaged. The o-rings are probably made from EPDM and of relatively soft shore value. As they are fitted dry at the factory then can be very tight to remove from the stub

Example photo showing a similar type of connection with o-ring in place just below the castellated spigot. One photo shows the stainless retaining ring in place and the second disengaged ready for removal or fitting to stub.