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22nd February 2019, 19:58 | #11 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
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I know this as I have several out on site with customers as we speak, and just as well given the price differential between the "Lidl battery tester" and the Fluke Hydra III is quite considerable. It is a shame Lidl chose to scribble out the Fluke logo with a magic marker don't you think Brian |
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22nd February 2019, 20:03 | #12 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
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I hope you have them calibrated every 3 months! |
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22nd February 2019, 20:42 | #14 | |
This is my second home
1979 Capri 1.6L, 1982 Capri 1.6L, 2016 Dacia Stepway Join Date: Jun 2009
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22nd February 2019, 22:06 | #15 | |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
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By mistreating I just meant it needed a good charge.--- The rest of my posts was meant to be serious about a battery tester. For very many technical reasons that tester will not give you the result you expect it to. Last edited by COLVERT; 22nd February 2019 at 22:16.. |
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22nd February 2019, 22:12 | #16 | |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
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Those electric ones would take AGES to get 7 litres out of a diesel engine and for that reason only I wouldn't bother with one. Most blokes beards would grow quite long waiting for that underpowered thing to do its job.--- |
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22nd February 2019, 22:42 | #17 | |
Gets stuck in
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Which I now appreciate after having this problem for the first time ever even with a quality new battery in place. I've used a multimeter to check the battery voltage since discovering the non working battery which had only dropped to 11.7v but of course was below the level of attempting to start the car. I was surprised as I was harking back to the days of a struggling battery sluggishly turning over an engine and hopefully just about starting the car before giving out completely, but upon reading up on the subject find that just a tiny loss of voltage means that cars these days won't even attempt to start which was a new one on me. I was just wondering if a bit of a gimmicky light gizmo attatched to the battery and giving an alternator reading at the same time would be more convenient than the admittedly not very onerous task of using the multimeter. Ironically it was the low £2.99 price tag that was making me wonder if it was rubbish or perfectly adequate for the job as advertised. Last edited by bendrick; 22nd February 2019 at 22:52.. |
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22nd February 2019, 22:51 | #18 | |
Gets stuck in
Ex CDT Auto Join Date: Oct 2017
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I am scared stiff of mucking about with engines or anything that I know very little about as doing even the simplest of tasks invariably goes wrong in my case if working on stuff that I know very little about. I don't have acess to a ramp and don't want to work under a jack or ramps on my drive so wouldn't attempt messing about trying to get a sump plug out and draining the oil that way. The pela vacuum pumps seem a touch on the pricey side for what they are but I would have saved up for one but in the meantime spotted the powered ones in Lidls today hence my enquiry. I think that I will give it a try as Micky seems to be happy enough with his and if it is too slow then its a £13 gamble that does or doesn't pay off. Thanks for your observation regards possible speed of emptying |
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23rd February 2019, 08:40 | #19 |
Gets stuck in
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My opinion? You've got to get under the car to do the filter anyway, so let gravity do the work! Any bigger bits of debris will well come out of the sump as well. I'm not sure how well a pump would clear those.
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gnu |
23rd February 2019, 09:03 | #20 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
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It's on the diesel that the vacuum pumps are handy as the filter is accessed from the top. |
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