newbie struggling!!!

Dadrock · 17th April 2013, 07:39

What have i got myself into with these rovers??

had car a 1.8t 2005 a month thought engine seemed to smell hot but temp gauge was fine had rad top hose come off at the t joint when out on a run but fixed that easily enough filled back up coolant no probs for couple of weeks,but still topping up(only a bit) regulary.now dont all shout at me now but still convinced i had a leak i bought some steel seal read that it was the best stuff (£40) and doesnt clog up the system,since then the fan has been kicking in and running for a few minutes when parked,prob what its supposed to do! but the volume is huge ive never heard a car with a fan running sound that loud it cant be right.anyway on way home from work this morn have some hills to climb for about 2 mls,temp gauge shot up to red and massively loud fan came on, i stopped at the top of the hill for 10mins when i restarted temp gauge stayed at normal for remainder of journey,got home did short school run wife gone to work reported everything ok but for fan being on.looked at haynes manual says possible airlock,thermostat stuck or rad blocked,top hose was hot,squeezed all the pipes but how do i get rid of an airlock? has the steel seal done somthing? sorry for droning on but felt you might need full story

lovema75 · 17th April 2013, 09:29

Hi Dadrock,

Members may find it helpful to know a little more details about your car and exact engine.

Have you checked that the low speed on the fan is working? To do so, start the engine and switch the heating to "demist." The cooling fan should operate at low speed.

If it doesnt, then this indicates a problem, and may be part of your problem - if low speed has failed the engine will get even hotter until high speed kicks in as a last resort, and this may be behind the excessive noise you are hearing.

Engine size and year would help to pin down the type of fan you have fitted, but meantime peer through the grill and see if you can see a small square resistor fitted to the fan shroud at the 2 o'clock position - this indicates a 2 speed fan, so is possible resistor failure.

If there is no resistor visable, this suggests it is possibly a 3 speed fan, in which case the brushes have burnt out.

Get back with some more info and I'm sure others more knowledgeable can chime in.

robearner · 17th April 2013, 10:47

You can bleed the system by opening the air vent on the top hose that runs just to the left of your battery - in the hose itself there is a valve that can be opened by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver and turning anti clockwise. Just open it until clear water runs through and then seal up the system again.

Rob

chipsceola · 17th April 2013, 12:02

It's important on 1.8 to fix any leak in cooling system, difference between full and danger is very small. Thermostat opens at 96 degrees, low speed fan cuts in at 104 degrees and high speed at circa 110, fan running after engine off is indication of over heat and is to prevent heat soak damaging head. K-seal / Steel seal not good for these cars is general consensus as can block small water passages especially in heater circuit.

There are known weak points i.e. T-piece at top of radiator is plastic, replace with Gerry-T piece in aluminium or stainless steel (see picture below) hoses can weep at joints, inlet manifold can leak, all easy inexpensive proper fixes. If you intend to keep the car best drain and fix any leaks asap. Short trips can lose coolant as engine cools, constant topping up is then frequent routine.

Lots of threads on this, and members will help with specific problems, see signature for modifications that help with coolant loss and accurate temperature gauge, OEM gauge normal at 9 o'clock position from about 90/116 degrees, by the time it goes up scale damage is already done.

Coolant level and temp gauge will alert to low coolant on start up and throughout journey, digital temp gauge shows when stat opens and closes, and when low and hi speed fans cut in, throughout journey and all from comfort of driving seat.

It's also important not to overfill with coolant, top up only enough to cover fins marked MAX as in T-Cut's photo below:

if overfilled coolant will simply be ejected through the cap leading you to think you have coolant loss over and above any actual leakage !

kaiser · 17th April 2013, 16:59

A key close to the lower right corner on the key board is a stop sign. Use it. It gives the reader a chance to breathe!

Anyhow, needless to say, I didn't read the whole piece, ran out of air and patience. But there is a lot about cooling on the Rover engines, it is the weak spot.

The gauge gives no warning, so don't rely on it. Check the coolant level when cold, and make sure you keep it filled!

The gauge shows MED for anything between 75 and 115 degrees. You might as well have the gauge painted on the dash! It is about that useful.!

All the plastic is suspect, and so is the water pump and the inlet manifold gasket. The forum has untold stories of people with these problems.

There is a search function near the top. Try it, it will give you plenty information.

17th April 2013, 07:39	#1
Dadrock Newbie rover75 tourer Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: huddersfield Posts: 15 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	newbie struggling!!! What have i got myself into with these rovers??had car a 1.8t 2005 a month thought engine seemed to smell hot but temp gauge was fine had rad top hose come off at the t joint when out on a run but fixed that easily enough filled back up coolant no probs for couple of weeks,but still topping up(only a bit) regulary.now dont all shout at me now but still convinced i had a leak i bought some steel seal read that it was the best stuff (£40) and doesnt clog up the system,since then the fan has been kicking in and running for a few minutes when parked,prob what its supposed to do! but the volume is huge ive never heard a car with a fan running sound that loud it cant be right.anyway on way home from work this morn have some hills to climb for about 2 mls,temp gauge shot up to red and massively loud fan came on, i stopped at the top of the hill for 10mins when i restarted temp gauge stayed at normal for remainder of journey,got home did short school run wife gone to work reported everything ok but for fan being on.looked at haynes manual says possible airlock,thermostat stuck or rad blocked,top hose was hot,squeezed all the pipes but how do i get rid of an airlock? has the steel seal done somthing? sorry for droning on but felt you might need full story Last edited by Dadrock; 17th April 2013 at 14:40..

17th April 2013, 10:47	#3
robearner Avid contributor Rover 75 Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Castletown Posts: 104 Thanks: 8 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Airlock You can bleed the system by opening the air vent on the top hose that runs just to the left of your battery - in the hose itself there is a valve that can be opened by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver and turning anti clockwise. Just open it until clear water runs through and then seal up the system again. Rob

17th April 2013, 12:02	#4
chipsceola This is my second home Jaguar XF 3.0D Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Southampton Posts: 4,364 Thanks: 119 Thanked 509 Times in 426 Posts	It's important on 1.8 to fix any leak in cooling system, difference between full and danger is very small. Thermostat opens at 96 degrees, low speed fan cuts in at 104 degrees and high speed at circa 110, fan running after engine off is indication of over heat and is to prevent heat soak damaging head. K-seal / Steel seal not good for these cars is general consensus as can block small water passages especially in heater circuit. There are known weak points i.e. T-piece at top of radiator is plastic, replace with Gerry-T piece in aluminium or stainless steel (see picture below) hoses can weep at joints, inlet manifold can leak, all easy inexpensive proper fixes. If you intend to keep the car best drain and fix any leaks asap. Short trips can lose coolant as engine cools, constant topping up is then frequent routine. Lots of threads on this, and members will help with specific problems, see signature for modifications that help with coolant loss and accurate temperature gauge, OEM gauge normal at 9 o'clock position from about 90/116 degrees, by the time it goes up scale damage is already done. Coolant level and temp gauge will alert to low coolant on start up and throughout journey, digital temp gauge shows when stat opens and closes, and when low and hi speed fans cut in, throughout journey and all from comfort of driving seat. It's also important not to overfill with coolant, top up only enough to cover fins marked MAX as in T-Cut's photo below: if overfilled coolant will simply be ejected through the cap leading you to think you have coolant loss over and above any actual leakage ! __________________ Chips Last edited by chipsceola; 17th April 2013 at 13:28.. Reason: photo added

17th April 2013, 09:29	#2
lovema75 This is my second home 75 Tourer CDT Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Enfield Posts: 3,925 Thanks: 63 Thanked 431 Times in 237 Posts	Hi Dadrock, Members may find it helpful to know a little more details about your car and exact engine. Have you checked that the low speed on the fan is working? To do so, start the engine and switch the heating to "demist." The cooling fan should operate at low speed. If it doesnt, then this indicates a problem, and may be part of your problem - if low speed has failed the engine will get even hotter until high speed kicks in as a last resort, and this may be behind the excessive noise you are hearing. Engine size and year would help to pin down the type of fan you have fitted, but meantime peer through the grill and see if you can see a small square resistor fitted to the fan shroud at the 2 o'clock position - this indicates a 2 speed fan, so is possible resistor failure. If there is no resistor visable, this suggests it is possibly a 3 speed fan, in which case the brushes have burnt out. Get back with some more info and I'm sure others more knowledgeable can chime in.

17th April 2013, 16:59	#5
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	A key close to the lower right corner on the key board is a stop sign. Use it. It gives the reader a chance to breathe! Anyhow, needless to say, I didn't read the whole piece, ran out of air and patience. But there is a lot about cooling on the Rover engines, *it is the weak spot.* The gauge gives no warning, so don't rely on it. Check the coolant level when cold, and make sure you keep it filled! The gauge shows MED for anything between 75 and 115 degrees. You might as well have the gauge painted on the dash! It is about that useful.! All the plastic is suspect, and so is the water pump and the inlet manifold gasket. The forum has untold stories of people with these problems. There is a search function near the top. Try it, it will give you plenty information.